Questions about: 240v

Everything downstream of the GFCI has to be connected to both the Hot and Neutral from the Load side of the GFCI. The way you've wired it, when the heater kicks on, current is flowing from the Load side of the GFCI through the heater and back to the
I just bought a home with a gas hookup for the dryer, but I have a fairly recent, perfectly working electric dryer, so I've decided to run a 240v line instead of purchasing a new gas dryer. This is what I plan to do and wanted to run it by you folks
The issue I have is that the 14-50P has 4 terminals (2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground), Right but there are only three 10 gauge wires coming out of my brew system (1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground). I think you are mostly likely mistaken on what the wires
Wire design is usually based on minimizing the length of wire needed. By putting all lights on one circuit and outlets on another, it would require more wire than would normally be used and also cause needless inconvenience if the light circuit tripp
It depends upon the nature of the appliance but generally speaking if the voltage is too high it draws too much current and burns out, if the voltage is too low it draws too little current and/or does not perform to its rating. The mathematical refer
This is a "lost neutral" and it is very dangerous and should be dealt with swiftly. Your house has 240V power with "neutral" in the middle. That gives you two sides
Wires are reversed, possibly at the outlet you're measuring at. Find the circuit's breaker and pull the outlet and make sure green or bare copper goes to green, black to gold and white to silver. Make sure any pigtailing is properly done
See Additional Added Info: I have an electric motor that I want to plug in at my house (USA). The device is 220V, 50hz and 600watt. The power cord (no plug) is 3 wires, and rated as 10amp
You didn't say what you're doing with the other side. It depends an awful lot on that. If the circuit breaker in the main panel is 20 amps or less, and the existing load is 120V (i
I'm based in Europe and my dryer is a 1 phase unit so it takes no more than 2300Kw all included (also the rating of the fuse in breaker/fuse panel). I presume you meant 2300W, not kW. Otherwise, you'd likely have to open a new sub-station in your nei