5 year old Air handler fan not rotating or slow


New board...

Sorry for the late (and long) reply. This answer is going sound rambly, but the short version is that while I was trying to troubleshoot, the air handler fan started turning on and off while there was a call for cool and the compressor was running, and this went on for a long period of time (assume relay at least was dead). To avoid the compressor running without the fan, I went ahead and connected the common terminal and N.O. like previously and have ordered a new board (which should be here tonight).

Longer story:
I had been running in fan mode, and so first switched off the fan. At first it seemed to behave perfectly, for maybe a day, and then started going on and off (without a call for cool). When I had time to troubleshoot it, @Bob14525, it was not affected by disconnecting the thermostat, and after turning it off at the breaker box, it later continued to run after the call for cool ended for about 20...

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It will definitely overheat eventually. The more you run it without the fan, it will get hotter than it's specified limit and the cup will be under too much stress. Essentially you will kill your laptop. You may be able to use a cooling pad in lieu of the actual internal fan but that still might not be enough.

One possible option is these new add-on cooling fans that clip onto the intake vent with suction cups.

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You are correct in stating that the blower fan is set to different speeds for heating and cooling. For cooling the evaporator coil is designed to operate at peak efficiency with between 350 and 450 CFM per ton of cooing capacity. Most equipment comes with the fan speed set in cooling mode at 400 CFM/ton.

The greater the airflow over the coil, the less humidity you remove, so if you live in a dry climate, you can set the fan speed up to as much as 450/ton to get more sensible cooling and less latent. If you live in a humid summer climate, you may benefit from slowing the fan down to as little as 350/ton to improve humidity control in your home. Do not go much below 350/ton or you can cause the coil to ice because you aren't moving enough warm air over it to keep it from freezing! For example, a dirty or highly restrictive air filter can reduce airflow to the point that a coil will ice up.

On the heating side the needed airflow is also related to the BTU's being...

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An air handling unit; air flow is from the right to left in this case. Some AHU components shown are

1 – Supply duct

2 – Fan compartment

3 – Vibration isolator ('flex joint')

4 – Heating and/or cooling coil

5 – Filter compartment

6 – Mixed (recirculated + outside) air duct

A rooftop packaged unit or RTU

An air handler, or air handling unit (often abbreviated to AHU), is a device used to regulate and circulate air as part of a heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) system.[1] An air handler is usually a large metal box containing a blower, heating or cooling elements, filter racks or chambers, sound attenuators, and dampers.[2] Air handlers usually connect to a ductwork ventilation system that distributes the conditioned air through the building and returns it to the AHU. Sometimes AHUs discharge (supply) and admit (return) air directly to and from the space served without ductwork.

Small air handlers,...

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Well, it's obvious that the first two guys to jump in know nothing about what they're talking about. Of course I have experience and training, yeh, I went to school for this stuff. Sorry!

OK, so the first problem with fans is that they pull air from the sides. That means a fan pulling air through the cooler works less effectively than a fan blowing in. Many of the guys here would say that a pulling fan has a larger "dead spot" in the center.

The second problem relates to the first, since the fan pulls air from the side the only part of the cooler getting good airflow in the "pull" configuration is the top. Not the bottom, where the CPU is. Bad idea.

It's such an incredibly bad idea that Intel, that's the company with all the funky engineers, specifies their own designs, all of which blow into a cooler rather than sucking out of it.

Now there was this cooler maker nobody remembers, I think they're still around, called Alpha. They thought pulling was...

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The condenser unit on my 20 year old split system has died. The air handler unit inside is still working, but was installed foolishly and I'll have to tear into drywall/studs to remove/replace the air handler unit when it finally poops out (don't ask about the poor judgement at the time of the original install, please). So I'd like to avoid replacing the air handler until necessary. Well, my main HVAC guy is a side-work guy who prefers new installs to repairs, and he's been told at the supply house that current higher-SEER condensers can't be matched to old, lower-SEER air handlers. But is that really true? Can I hook a new condenser (of appropriate tonnage) up to an existing 20 year old air handler/coil with considerably lower SEER rating?

I figure the supply house is covering it's rear end and saying that mismatching will void warranties, etc., and they also have a vested interest in selling both halves of a new split system. Is that so?

Will I be forced to to replace the...

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HVAC blower fan testing & diagnosis FAQs:

Questions & answers on diagnosing and repairing HVAC blower fans in the air handler.

This article series explains how to inspect and test a heating or air conditioning indoor air handler blower fan that is not working. We also discuss fan fan squeaks and noises. The blower fan assembly is the green component in the page top illustration from Carson Dunlop Associates The Illustrated Home.

Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2017 InspectApedia.com, All Rights Reserved.

Heating or Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Blower Fan Testing & Diagnostic Procedures

[Click to enlarge any image]

The blower fan is located inside a horizontal air conditioning unit in many home air conditioning systems, especially when the air handler is located in an attic or crawl...

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Hi. I recently acquired the new power supply from Corsair - HX620, but I have problems with temperature. The overall system and components temperature has risen about 5 degress of Celsius after installing it. The internal fan seems to spin really slow and there is almost no flow of air from the rear of the power supply. If I stress the PC with Prime95, games or 3DMark the system gets very hot and the power supply itself too. After hour or so I can barely hold a hand on the power supply, casing because of its temperature. There has no other component changed than this power supply.

My former power supply had constant fan speed on its 120mm fan and with the same PC system it was almost cool after benchmarks and all temperatures were ca 5 degrees lower than now.

Is something wrong with my piece of HX620? I am afraid that after a longer time the power supply will eventually burn itself down.

Thanks for...

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I bought this desktop around two years ago, now. and it has served it's purpose well. However, around 4 months ago, I decided to upgrade the graphics card, since the warranty had ran out anyway, and therefore I had to buy a new case as well, since the one the pc came with was too small for the new graphics card.

I installed everything, and it all seemed to work, but when I booted up the pc for the first time after changing the graphics card, the error: "Error 512 - rear chassis fan not detected" Came up. It said press F1 to continue, and so I did. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, so I just went with it, however, recently this has started to bother me again.

I went online and checked how to remove this error, and the best answer I found was enter bios and go to advanced, then disable system fan check. However, in my case, there were basically nothing I could do in bios. There were only a handful of options, and none of them had to do with fans. My currnt...

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A laptop’s internal fan is a part of its cooling system that keep its CPU and GPU cool and protects it from overheating. A laptop’s internal cooling fan draws air from the air vents located on the bottom of the machine and throws out hot air from either side left or right. The fan may be located either on the left or right side of your machine. In this tutorial, I will teach you how to fix the laptop fan if it doesn’t spin on startup. If the fan stops rotating then the cooling system of your laptop shuts down, thereby increasing the CPU and motherboard temperature.

If this problem is left unnoticed then this can damage the internal components of the laptop due to overheating. So I will tell you some possible cases in which the laptop fan doesn’t work, also I will tell the solutions of these cases.

1. Incorrect Positioning:

You should place your laptop on a firm level. Do not use it on your lap. A flat surface is highly recommended. In most cases a laptop fan will not...

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2nd floor of my Kansas City 24yo home (bought 3 years ago) is consistently 6-12 degrees (F) warmer in summer than first floor. The problem I noticed from Day 1 is simply that the 2nd floor does not get enough air from the HVAC system. With the house fan on full blast, you can barely feel any air coming up through the floor registers in the bedrooms, while the registers downstairs are blasting out cold air.

Supposedly, a duct booster fan isn't a good idea. However, after everything else I've tried that is supposed to address the problem, I think a duct booster fan is by far the least expensive and most effective solution that would directly address the problem. In fact, I'm coming to the point where I think everything else is stupid.

So if there's a reason that I may be delusional, please convince me otherwise. But this is my throwdown challenging the "conventional wisdom" of building science on this one.

Here's the situation as it stands:

A. All the...

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Thanks for your response.

It may be no differences in efficiency. But let me explain my case:

I build a little mini-PC with the air outlet side, directly from the processor fan. Testing the same layout (same board, same box, same processor) 9 blades fan (Foxconn) usually rotates between 1170 to 1200 RPM, the 11 blades fan rotate at 980 to 1100 RPM, and the sound difference is very noticeable. I have done extensive testing and I'm sure this is so.

I would add that the sound is not the fan noise when turning, but the "wind." The Foxconn 9 blades fan "blows" a lot when it is confined in a small space.

Perhaps the 11 blades fan move more air is ejected laterally and better (in my design). I do not know, I have no sufficiently precise measuring instruments. But the difference in noise is very noticeable, so I'm pretty sure.

Anyway, thanks again for the...

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