Add bracing to I-Joist


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Once you're finished with this course, you can feel confident taking the Revit Structure 2015 Certified Professional...

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Made In USA

Structure Lock supplies steel braces that are stronger, safer and seismically superior to wood cross bridging or blocking. We build our products using 18 gauge galvanized steel designed to interlock dimensional joists and engineered I-joists of all sizes and spacing. All Structure Lock products are the highest quality available to meet and exceed mandatory framing requirements under local building codes. In addition, our Pass Through design allows for piping, ducting and wiring installations to be free of obstruction while maintaining our interlocked design. Our Retrofit braces allow for easy installation into any existing floor, patio, deck, modular home, or flat roof with limited alteration required.

Design. Material. Installation.

Our interlocking, triangulated, wrap over design works in compression and tension preventing joist roll over or collapse under stress. Slotted design allows for shrinkage giving your floor, deck or flat roof superior...

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Re: Bracing I-joists After Subfloor Installed.

I was looking at a new home awhile back that had a full basement, and it had I joists spannig maybe 36 feet. So anyway, I remeber seeing something there that was "interesting". Rather then blocking or bracing, the I joists were strapped in an X pattern with 1 inch wide brace or nail strap over and under and over, and the parallel under and over and under, and so on.

Now I don't know if I would do this, but structurally, probably works fine, and perhaps this was a temporary anti twist thing that was left in when the sub floor went down. Looked like it was nailed off with 6d's and there were 2 runs of this on the length of the basement...maybe 60 feet.

Anyone else seen this...

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A hacksaw might do the trick... cut the bar, and twist it out. You might find it much easier to just go ahead and open up the drywall to the joists, to make it easier to get at the staples. Then you could drive a flat head screwdriver under the staples, or use a tack/staple puller. This would make installing the new bracket and box easier too, it just would mean some drywall work to finish up. If you are careful, you can re-use the piece(s) of drywall you cut out. I would screw a couple of tack strips to the joists, just to have something to screw the drywall back into, to help secure it. Do the usual routine of using joint compound and mesh tape to fill in the seams, etc (you can even find videos at This Old House, or on YouTube, that show how to patch drywall) It would take a bit longer to repair the hole, but it would make removing that old brace, and installing the new one much faster, so its a bit of a trade-off. If you're familiar with drywall repair, you'll probably...

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So I am getting ready to tackle this project. Some more info:

The joists are 2x10s 16'' on center and a 14' span.

I was planning on sistering the joists, but was thinking maybe I could try some bridging first.

Was thinking something like this:

Will this work for joists already in place as opposed to new construction?

Now if the bridging is no good and I need to sister, How do I attach the joists at the ends? On one end, I can notch the joist to match the current one and lay on the 2x3 pictured.

But on the other end the joists are on the 2x4 sill, and I wont have access to rest the sistered joist onto it because of the other 2x10 in between.

Any thoughts on this and how to firm up my floor would be greatly...

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You can eliminate a spongy floor by making and installing diagonal bracing, also known as bridging, between the joists in a wood-framed house. The bracing consists of two pieces of framing lumber that install in a criss-cross configuration, which prevents the floor from sagging under weight. Bridging is also effective between joists on flat roofs where heavier air-conditioning equipment is installed. A do-it-yourself homeowner with basic carpentry skills can make and install diagonal braces using everyday carpentry tools.

Put on work gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask. Remove the crawl-space cover at the outside of the foundation to access the underside of the floor joists for a first floor room. Alternatively, use a stepladder to access the underside of the ceiling or roof joists at a second floor room.

Determine where the braces should be installed and mark the lower edges of two adjacent floor joists at that location. Measure the diagonal distance between the...

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Engineered to provide strength and consistency, Weyerhaeuser’s Trus Joist®TJI® joists are one of the most fundamental components of a solid, high-performance floor system. And with their light weight and long lengths, TJI joists are faster and easier to install than traditional framing, which can save time and money.

But even with the familiarity and ease of use, there are a few common mistakes during installation that can lead to red flags and tear-outs, or to squeaky floors for homeowners down the road. Many errors can be avoided simply by better communication across the project team, by planning ahead and by paying careful attention to plans and drawings.

Here’s a look at seven common mistakes with I-joist installation—and how to prevent them.

1. Lack of Communication
Many of the mistakes listed here come back to one simple problem: ambiguity between the dealer, architect, builder and framing contractor. By considering the plans collaboratively and well...

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