Attach rim joist to post supporting roof

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It is mostly a style and preference choice. The original half inch lumber post is probably not structural, though it could well have been a cheap replacement for one which was more substantial. From what I can see of the eves, a 4x4 or 6x6 post is appropriate. Some jurisdictions require heavier columns beyond a certain length, usually about 10 feet. Raising a 6x6 post is not that hard with a helper or two, or straightforward solo job with block and tackle attached to the temporary support.

A properly designed and built deck should have no trouble supporting a post. You could build the deck with an equivalent support which is not in the way: slanted support, temporary horizontal truss, etc.

If you like the look of a stone or concrete base, it should not rest on the deck. Build it into the ground (depth as required for freezing conditions in your climate) and finish the column on top of it. Build the deck around the column—it does not need to be tied together and it is...

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A circular saw can create miter cuts on deck framing.

Your deck plans will almost certainly call for two beams to meet under the corner, doing the job of supporting joists that project over the beam. This projection, called a cantilever, gives you the working room you need to nip off the ends of the joists and create a 45-degree angle.

Step 1

Construct a regular square-cornered frame for your deck, with joists, typically 2-by-6 dimensional lumber, running from the ledger under your patio door to a rim joist at the far end of the framing.

Step 2

Measure an equal distance from the corner of the framing, where the rim joist meets the end joist, as the final regular joist is called. Follow your deck plans, noting the length of the area cut away to create a 45-degree angle. Mark this distance on the rim joist and the the end joist, and carry this mark down the face of the joists with a carpenter’s square. Cut a 22 1/2-degree miter through the rim joist and...

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Where to Attach

Fastening to Masonry Walls
Flashing a LedgerCalifornia Redwood Association

Patio roof connects to a ledger that firmly attaches to house framing.

Expert advice on how to build an outdoor patio roof or gazebo, with illustrated step-by-step instructions and construction diagrams.

A house-attached patio roof takes advantage of the house’s structure by supporting one end of the roof on a ledger mounted horizontally to the house. The ledger, typically a 2 by 6, is usually designed to hold one end of the patio-roof rafters. Locating and mounting the ledger is normally a fairly easy process; the ledger should be attached before the foundation is built.

If attaching a patio roof to a ledger beneath the eaves does not allow for enough headroom, you can set the new patio roof’s rafters on the wall’s top plate.

Where to Attach

On a one-story house, it is often best to attach the ledger just below the eaves.

On a...

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Support Posts 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 8' 4 Front/Back rim joists 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 70 1/2" 5 Side rim joists 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 67 1/2" 6 Floor joists 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 67 1/2" 12 First floor boards 5/4 x 5 1/2" x 72" 13 Second floor boards ...
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Platform framing - built in steps, simple in concept; floor platform is built, loadbearing walls are erected upon it, second-floor platform is built, and a second set of walls upon this platform, attic and roof are built upon the second set of walls.
advantages of the platform frame:
- it uses short, easily handled lengths of lumber for wall framing
- vertical hollow spaces are automatically firestopped by the platform framing at the floor
disadvantages:
- each platform constitutes a thick layer of wood whose grain runs horizontally
- so this leads to a relatively large amount of shrinkage in the frame as excess moisture dries from the wood, which causes distress in the exterior and interior finish surfaces
Platform framing is the method of choice bc it is very simple in concept and has automatic firestopping in the platform framing at the...

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By Todd Fratzel on Framing

Using TJI Span Tables

The following screen shot comes from the Trus Joist TJI Manual. It shows the standard span tables for TJI’s. The tables look overwhelming but they are actually pretty simple to use. They are organized by two main tables, one for live load deflections of L/360 and one for L/480. Within each of those two tables the information is divided again into to sections, one section for a dead load of 10 pounds per square foot (psf) and one for 20 psf.

So the question is: How on earth do I use these tables? Minimum codes typically require a live load of 40 psf and a dead load of 10 psf. These minimum design loads work well as a minimum safe loading capacity. However, those actually loads don’t typically govern the design. The minimum deflection criteria of L/360 will usually control.

L/360 means that if you have a joist spanning 10 feet you can expect it to deflect 0.33 inches at mid-span based on 40 psf live...

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Outside Faceplates for 45° Cut Corners

When a 45° corner is required in the outside edge of your deck, you will need to install the faceplate at that corner on a 45° angle. To do this, the two faceplate pieces running into this corner will be shortened and cut at a 45° miter. If this corner is included in your deck plan, the length of these pieces will be indicated. If not, simply measure from the corner the distance you want your 45° corner to cut into the deck, along both angles of the faceplates where they meet at the corner.

Mark each faceplate at this point. A straight line between these two equidistant points will lie at 45° to the original faceplates. Cut each faceplate at this mark on a 45°, miter so that the long point of the miter is to the inside of the faceplate. Measure from outside to outside of these miter cuts with the faceplates in their original positions. Cut your corner piece that length, with a 45° inside miter at either end. The point of the...

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