Can a gas pipe/tube run under floor joists?


The TJI, or wooden "I" joist, has been used in construction since the 1970s. It is composed of an Oriented Strand Board centre with two 2-by-3 sections of lumber fastened to the top and bottom. This combination makes a strong floor joist that has a long span. They also resist warping, twisting and shrinking that is common with conventional floor joists. When building a house it is necessary to cut holes in the joists to run plumbing and gas pipes. There are special rules for making these penetrations in TJI Joists.

Determine the starting and ending point of your pipe run by looking at the building plans. Choose the most efficient route between the two points, keeping in mind the allowable hole locations by the TJI joist manufacture. Consult the Resources section below for information regarding acceptable hole locations for your size of joist.

Chalk a straight line along the bottom of the joists on the path you would like to take. Measure up from the bottom of the...

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Any monkey can do it. That's why pipe wrenches are called monkey wrenches.

Turn off the gas supply to the pipe before starting work. Locate pipe to be removed and measure it for size. ie. pipe diameter 1/2 or 3/4 inch.

If installed under your house, no burial needed, just hang from the floor joist with hangers.

If installed outside, no cement required unless the pipe runs under your drive way. The pipe must be buried below the frost line for your area. If the ground freezes 6 inches down, go below 6 inches, if it freezes 12 inches down, go below 12 inches.

The type of pipe is steel "black" pipe. Sold in all plumbing / home improvement centers. get the same size you are removing.

Use plenty of "white gas pipe sealer" on the threads. This is a white paste sold in tubes made specifically for sealing gas pipe joints. Screw together just like regular steel water pipe, except when you get it tight, give it another 1/2 turn.

Turn on the gas and then put...

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Please can any qualified gas plumbers give me some advice?
This is NOT for DIY purposes, I just want to know what options are/could have been for the gas supply to our new extension.

The extension walls are block work and are not plastered yet.

We had the main incoming gas supply moved to an external meter box by a utilities company.
We then had a company come round to fit us a new boiler.
The chosen position for the boiler is approx 6 meters from the meter box on the same wall, but is the other side of the external side door and window.
So the gas plumber took the gas pipe straight through the back of the meter box, then vertically upwards (surface mounted on the block work).
He then ran it horizontally right under the joists and against the wall (surface mounted on clips).
The pipe is 28mm for the first 3.5m, where it tees off in 22mm to the boiler, for a further 2meters. The branch coming off in 22mm goes into the existing house and is capped...

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Why drilling and notching rules matter

I once worked alongside a plumber nicknamed “Ethan the Terrible.” The name had nothing to do with his skills; he was one of the best plumbers around. But if a floor joist (Fig. A)—or anything else—stood in the way of his pipes, he’d break out a saw or drill, then slash or bore away until he made room. Fixing the ruins—at least for us carpenters— was the “terrible” part.

You can’t simply cut, notch and bore through structural members and expect your house to remain strong and your floors flat and solid. Building “from scratch” with smart planning can limit the need for most notching and boring. It’s during remodeling—when you have to run wires, pipes, gas lines and ducts through the joists already in place—that it becomes important to know the rules about tampering with joists.

Plenty of trial and error plus a healthy dose of engineering and testing have gone into the official rules in the building code. Here we’ll examine...

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A pity they do not provide a cheap "valve in a hole outside" for such installations (and those with incoming lead gas mains under the stairs).

If the Emergency Control Valve (ECV) is not in an accessible location you can have it moved for free, it is typically Ј905 to have a gas meter flipped the other side of the wall (ie, very little external supply pipe work AND you expose the pipe for them).

If the gas main is lead and in poor condition or festooning between cramps I would actually pay to have it moved, lead does crystallise with age and festooning does not go well with that. Lead piping can be block tin, but I do not think the gas companies used that (somewhat better and much more expensive). Iron can be worse in that it can and does corrode through with a ventilating leak becoming more severe if disturbed nearby.

Nothing to stop you painting a yellow line on the floor re gas.

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