Can I notch roof posts to install deck beams?


Notch the support columns? 2x6's for joists when 2x8's fit? Yeah um, stay away from those people. Concrete would be best overall since it's impervious to most everything from water rot, to termites to air leaks.

With concrete you'd want to cinder block the perimeter, throw down 4"s of rigid foam insulation & pour a proper 4" thick slab on top of the insulation. However, there's no problem with wood either & that would be much more DIY-friendly.

With wood you'd do 2x8's everywhere & would box-around the support beams, definitely do not notch the supports. 2" rigid insulation would go on the bottom & on the perimeter frame, then fiberglass batts can fill in the...

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by Andrew

I am having trouble finding a consistent answer to my problem while designing a low level deck that will have a pergola above. I don't know if I should notch the support post to accept the beam.

Picture a deck with a 6x6 column in each corner. Each column will carry the load of the deck. For the sake of argument, the beams to support the deck will be double 2x10" PT lumber. The columns that support the deck will also be the same columns for the pergola. The 6x6 column is supported by a poured concrete footing. The deck is about 2 feet off the ground, and the pergola will be about 8 feet above the ground, so the column will be about 10-11ft long.

So, how do I attach the beam to this column to support the deck, while at the same time retaining structural integrity for the pergola? Everyone, including building code is against sandwiching the beam (and i understand why). However, If i notch the column to accept the...

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After the deck boards and steps are installed you can finish your deck with the railing.

Cut railing posts. The heights will be 36 inches plus the width of the rim or edge joist or beam.

Notch posts 1 1/2 inches deep to allow posts to fit against joists.

Notch decking 1 1/2 inches deep by post width to allow posts to fit snuggly against top of joists.

Level the posts with a carpenter's level.

Secure the posts to the deck with 3/8-inch lag screws. A good weatherproof wood glue can be added to the points where the post and joists come into contact; this will add strength to the rail. (Use two screws per post.)

Attach rails to posts at the desired height by toenailing them in place. ("Toenail" means to drive the nails into one board near its end at an angle to catch the board that it is butted up against.)

Toenail the top rail flush or even with top of posts.

Add a center rail, if your deck design calls for...

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Beams are a crucial part of any deck, so it's imperative that they're properly installed. A beam runs across the posts, parallel to the ledger, and supports the joists.

First consider your construction options: The beam can be a single piece of lumber, a built-up piece with or without spacers, or two pieces of lumber fastened to the sides of the posts. Local codes may help you narrow your options. Some localities consider a beam with spacers stronger than a single board, and others don't. After code compliance your chief concern is how much the beam will show (and therefore how you want it to look) and the amount of space your plan allows for it.

A cantilevered front edge on the deck helps hide the beam unless you're building a raised deck. Then you can hide it with skirting. A low deck might not leave you much vertical space for a beam so you would have to use smaller stock and install an additional post. Instead of digging more holes, you could build a beam that...

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We have clay soil here so I have to spread all that weight out. Plus I wanted this deck to support a 80PSF live load to account for the extra roof weight. Here's my design so far.

16x12 deck.

18" footers and 12" tubes for post footings 14" deep plus 6" of gravel = 20" deep (frost line in GA is pretty shallow. It's supposed to be 60 degrees F here tonight!).

Deck beam 2@2x12. 4@6x6 post across the 16' deck beam and 1@6x6 post bisecting the span of the 12' rim joist on either side. 2x10 ledger and joists 16" O.C.

Notch the post 3" to hold the beam and continue the beam up to hold the roof, which will be a 4:12 pitch. 2x8 ridge, double 2x6 rafters with 1/2" spacer 4' O.C., (actually probably some kind of hand-build truss-ishness with fan plates) then T&G boards and roofing to match existing.

Do I need to continue all the posts up to the roof or just the corners to hold the roof header and rim joist posts to support rafter tails?

Since I am...

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Danny Lipford: This week we’re in Atlanta, Georgia, building a tremendous rooftop deck.

Announcer: Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford, the voice of home improvement, with projects, tips, and ideas to help you improve your home.

Danny Lipford: As you can see the guys are getting a great start on the framework for our new rooftop deck. Now, there’s been quite a trend over the last few years for people to move back to downtown areas. And developers are finding old buildings, like you see behind me, perfect to renovate into apartments.

Now, several years ago this three-story building I’m standing on top of was renovated very nicely into a number of loft apartments. And the person who bought the top apartment, Clif Sparkman, decided he’d like to develop an outdoor entertainment area for he and his family. Well, he had rooftop access, so this was the logical choice.

Well, he had a few challenges in order to get approval and all of the design necessary for...

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IMPORTANT: Read this before you start

In this sixth part in the series on building your deck, you will be installing the structure that will support the joists and flooring of your deck. It is critical that these parts are sturdy and solid. Before you begin framing your deck, you should have the ledger installed along the house and the concrete pads poured and dried thoroughly. These create the various supporting elements for your deck. Next to the house, the deck joists will be attached directly to the ledger. Meanwhile, the concrete pads hold up the posts, which support the girders (or beams) that the support the deck joists opposite of the ledger.

Skill Level & Time To Complete
Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10’x 30’ deck with the house defining two sides of the deck.
• Beginner - 2 to 3...
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The most under-appreciated connection on a deck frame is probably the one between a post and the beam it supports. Although this joint may not get the respect it deserves, it is a critical load-path connection that needs to keep the post and beam aligned while properly transferring deck loads to the footing. A less obvious but equally important function is resisting uplift loads. And when a lateral force is applied to the post, the connection also has to resist beam rotation and post displacement.

Metal connectors are good at managing load paths and post displacement, but I haven't found any that are particularly effective at handling beam rotation. For that, I want a wood bridge between the beam and the post. Beam rotation isn't a problem with every post-to-beam connection, though, so I plan accordingly. The specific detail I use depends on the size of the post, the position of the beam, and whether the installation is for a new deck or a retrofit. In addition, I need to be...

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This is an update of a previous post with more detail.

I want to build a roof over my deck. I have a ton of reclaimed 2x4's and don't want to buy any other lumber
The back of the roof will attach to house with 16' 2x4 and lag screws. Rafters to 2x4 with joist hangers.
Front and sides will sit on deck on a 2x4 wall with studs 24" oc and screened in.

roof will be roughly 12 x 16. one foot overhang so could say 11x16.

Not much snow here some light icing every now and then. Not much wind either except for spring storms.

Will 12' 2x4's on 24" centers be strong enough for the rafters. This will be a fairly flat roof. Only about two inch drop over 12'.

I might mention that I am using 12' corrugated metal for the roof directly on the rafters

Just thinking about the 2x4 rafters. Since I have plenty of 2x4's what if I make "I" beams for rafters? Flat side (3 1/2 in) up to roof metal with another on the bottom of the rafter put together with 3"...

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Foil Under Shingles Will NOT Create A Radiant Barrier Unless There Is An Airspace On One Side Of The Foil.

At first it sounds reasonable. You are getting a new roof, so why not scrape off the shingles, put down roofing felt, THEN radiant barrier foil and THEN shingles right on top. What an easy way to install a radiant barrier, right? I also get asked if eShield, SolarGuard or Bubble Foil Insulation will work.

Unfortunately you just wasted time and money for virtually NO additional benefit.

Radiant Heat by DEFINITION is electromagnetic radiation that travels in a waveform ACROSS a void, either an air space (or gas) or a vacuum. Without this space you CANNOT have RADIANT HEAT. Therefore, if NO radiant heat exists you CANNOT have a radiant barrier.

If you have items “sandwiched” together, you will get conductive heat. It is usually impossible to have radiant heat through solids. (some exceptions are transparent solids like glass, water etc.)

I keep...

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