Can I replace the power cord on an old electric drier, to fit my outlet?


A big reason: the old cord (and receptacle) may be obsolete and dangerous.

Your connectors will look slightly different, since they are probably -50 instead of -30, that number being the amp rating.

40 years ago, grounding was relatively new, and it was "par for the course" to fake up ground protection for stoves and dryers by using the neutral instead. Most existing houses didn't have grounds, just 3 wires, and forcing everyone to rewire would kill stove and dryer sales - not economically (politically) possible. The rationale was that neutral connects to ground in the main panel, and dryers and stoves are rarely unplugged.

The problem is, if that neutral connection is severed for any reason, the 120V loads in the stove (i.e. the oven light) will lift the neutral to 120V. The user will get shocked from a 120V leg, through the clock mechanism or bulb filament, through the user, to the sink or whatever they may be touching. People have died of...

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If these are the connectors I think they are, the answer is yes.

The difference between the three-wire and four-wire systems that I'm familiar with is that the latter includes adds a safety ground -- much like the difference between two-wire and three-wire 110/120V plugs.

In my area the four-wire version is required for electrically heated clothes driers; electric stoves here can still be plugged into either three-wire or four-wire outlets (and can be ordered from the manufacturer configured either way, or can be switched over in the field by replacing their power cord).

You have two options, that I can see: Replace the power cord (gives you the opportunity to connect the welder's case to safety ground, which is probably a good thing), or buy or build a short adapter cable (make sure it can handle that voltage and...

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I show how to replace the power cord on an electric stove.

If you are changing your electric stove, you can save money by keeping the old cord and attaching it to the new stove.

Most companies do not include a power cord with a new electric stove. There are a few different types of outlets and plug patterns. So a simple solution is to remove the old cord and put it on the new stove.

You should mark the old power cord with masking tape if the cord is not colored. You will have two hot wires and one neutral. They can all be the same color with one marked or ribbed for the neutral; or the hot wire could be red and black with the neutral white. Check the old stove for a wiring diagram.

On the new stove make sure you have a diagram to rewire the cord. Most will be rewired in the same pattern as the old stove.

Some plugs will have a green ground wire. You...

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Purchase a 3-prong dryer power cord. You can find the one you need at your local hardware store, or online at the website listed under "additional resources" below.

Unplug the existing cord from the wall if you haven't done so already.

Move the dryer away from the wall so that you have easy access to the back panels.

Remove the access panel cover. Different dryer models use different types of screws, so you will need to use the screwdrivers or the socket set/wrench set. The access panel cover is located close to where the plug wire meets the entry hole coming from the back.

Remove the bolts that are holding the now-visible wires in place, taking extra care not to drop them down the back of the dryer. There will be three wires: one black, one white, and one that's either red, orange or green. Each model will have a different color for the third wire. Typically, the third wire is red or orange and there will be a green grounding wire that will also...

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Post lamp. In the Alinering world, there's a certain amount of "keeping up with the Joneses". So when I saw the clever tongue-jack-mounted 12v post lamps sported by a couple of other campers, I decided I needed one for the Alite. The first problem was finding the right kind of light. Regular residential lamps (modified with a 12v bulb socket) are fine for larger campers, but they dwarfed the little Alite. I saw exactly what I needed in the Landscape Lighting area of Lowe's. The lamp itself needed little modifying. I removed the short screw-on pipe, added a length of regular lamp cord to the existing wire, and reattached the pipe, which now hides the wire nuts. To the other end of the new cord, I added a 12v male plug. Finally, I added an in-line switch to the new cord.

Next problem was where to put the lamp. It didn't look right on the tongue, but was perfect next to the kitchen window. And since I put my camp chair there, it would be good lighting for sitting outside at night....

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I have an EMG biofeedback machine that was bought in the 1980s ("Cyborg J33" is the model name). All parts are there except for the power cord, which seems to have been lost. I want to get a new power cord so I can get the machine to work again, but I can't figure out what kind of power cord will fit into the back sockets. There are two holes, one 3mm in diameter and one 2mm. Their centers are 13mm apart.

What kind of power cord might I use to plug this thing in? Were there any kind of standard power cords from the 1980s that are no longer used? I can't find any information on this machine on the web, except for a bunch of articles on medical research experiments that employed this machine. The company does not seem to exist any longer.

In case it's of value to anyone, here is a picture of a similar model, though from the...

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How do I know if I qualify for a free replacement AC power cord (the cord that plugs into an electrical outlet)?

Surface Pro and Pro 2 customers
All Surface Pro and Surface Pro 2 customers qualify to order one free replacement AC power cord (the cord that you plug into an electrical outlet) for each eligible Surface you own without proof of damage.

Surface Pro 3 customers
Only customers with Surface Pro 3 devices purchased before 15 July 2015 qualify (newer Surface Pro 3 devices already have the new-style AC power cord). If you have an old-style AC power cord, you can order one free replacement AC power cord for each eligible Surface Pro 3 you own without proof of damage.

Check to see whether you already have a new-style AC power cord (the cord you plug into an electrical outlet).

If you already have a new style power cord as shown below, you do not need a replacement and no further action is needed.

Old-style power cord...

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Maytag Dryer Cord Replacement Model LDE 8000

I bought a used dryer today and my apartment is updated with the 4 prong power receptacle. Once the back cover was removed on the main board there was three terminals top to bottom in a row there is two wires one red and black, on the second terminal two white wires, and on the third one blue wire. Well I'm not sure how to place the new 4 prong on this existing board because the new plug has 4 wires a white, red, black, and green. Can you please direct my effort on this old dryer. Thank You Barry

Dave's Reply: Typically the older 3 wire dryers do not require the separate neutral wire, but they do need the ground wire, and the two power wires.

Electric Dryer Wiring Diagram

I just want to say how much my husband and I appreciate this dryer wiring configuration that you have made available for us. Thank you very much again!

Dave's Reply: Your welcome Tammy, I'm glad the dryer wiring diagram has helped...

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Unplug the dryer. Remove the cover over the wiring terminal block by undoing the cover screws. The terminal block will have three lugs with nuts or screws holding the cord’s conductor wires in place. There also may be a strain relief clamp where the cord exits the dryer to hold the cord in place. Undo the terminal lugs and the strain relief device with a socket wrench or screwdriver. If there is a separate fourth connector for a green ground wire from the cord, undo that as well. Pull the cord wires loose from the connections, pull out the old cord and discard it.

Slide the new cord into the dryer chassis through the strain relief clamp that held the old cord. If replacing a 3-prong cord, attach the two outer conductors to the two outer terminals. The order doesn’t matter; they are interchangeable. Attach the center conductor to the center terminal. Don’t attach the center conductor to either of the outside terminals. If replacing a 4-prong cord, the red wire goes to the...

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An overview of how electrical cords and plugs work plus instructions on how to replace them

Age and heavy usage can take their toll on appliance and lamp cords and plugs. Common victims are cords and plugs of appliances you use frequently—irons and blow dryers, for example; ones you’ve had a long time, such as toasters, lamps, and refrigerators; and vintage models whose electrical systems are simply wearing out.

Types of Cords & Plugs

There are several types of electrical cords. You can usually identify the type by the kind of insulation it has:

• Lamps and fixtures have molded plastic cords.

©Don Vandervort, HomeTips

Types of Electrical Cords & Plugs

• Heaters typically have neoprene, cotton, or braided rayon cords..

• Power tools have rounded plastic cords.

• Vacuum cleaners generally have ribbed plastic cords.

If you buy a new cord for an appliance, be sure to get one that is the proper type for that particular...

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If an appliance isn’t working, you can replace worn plugs and cords. When replacing the cord on an appliance, it must be as heavy a gauge as the one you’re taking out, especially when an appliance heats up. These appliances must have cords that can resist fire; they have an Underwriters Laboratory (UL) fire rating. Think about the heavy, fabric-wrapped cord on an iron; it’s made to withstand a lot of heat. Next in line come frying pans and electric griddles; they have medium-weight cords. Coffeepots and most appliances with motors have cords that are somewhat lighter because they operate at a much lower temperature. Now compare each of the three types of cords to a common extension cord and you’ll see what we mean.

Appliance cords have reuseable plastic outer insulators that hold the cord into the base. To remove the insulator, squeeze it on the inside with pliers until it pushes out of the hole. Take it off the wire and don’t throw it away. Now follow these...

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Ok, so my landlord bought a new dryer for the home I rent, leaving it to me to install it. But the plug doesn't fit the outlet in the wall. I've looked and looked, and the only advice I can find for the problem, is to replace the wall outlet, but I can't do that as then the washer won't fit!

The plug on the dryer, has 2 prongs at 90 degree angles, and then the ground prong is an L shape. The plug on the washer (and the outlet in the wall) is two parallel straight prongs and one straight one.

So is it possible to buy an adapter that I can use on the dryer to make it fit? If I have to replace the cord on the dryer, is this a safe thing to do, and could it damage my dryer?

Thank you for any help you can...

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Here's my situation. I just moved in to my new house last week. I went to hook the dryer up and noticed my dryer's power cord has three prongs, but my wall outlet (220) has 4 holes. So I started doing some research.

Most places state that you can simply buy a 4 prong power cord and replace the power cord on the dryer with the new 4 prong cord. For some reason this just doesn't seem right.

I would rather buy an adapter that plugs onto the end of my 3 prong converting it to a 4 prong. Do these exist?

Anyone have any experience with doing this? My last dryer I blew up messing with the wires in the back so I would like to avoid that if possible.

Oh yeah I'm in America, so if your not and you have weird power disregard this...

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