Can I take a 240 volt 33 amp male plug an slice [closed]


Yes, you can use existing wiring to feed a sub-panel. (you cannot put a plug on a sub-panel as far as I know.) If the wiring is not quite long enough to reach your sub-panel location, put a junction box there and splice to an additional cable.

Your sub-panel absolutely requires a ground wire to the main panel. Grounds can only be bare wire, green or green/yellow. If the inspector sees any insulation other than that color, it cannot be a ground wire.

If your wire also has neutral, then you can make your sub-panel a 120/240V sub-panel. Here's the trick: In the sub-panel, neutral must be isolated from ground. Most panels give you a way to do that, by removing bonding straps or removing green screws.

If your wire does not have neutral, your sub-panel will be 240V only. Use 2-pole breakers and NEMA 6 receptacles. If you power anything hard-wired, make sure it is 240V friendly - most new fluorescent ballasts are multi-voltage, as are many other products.


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Own a vintage 155 Lincoln MIG welder, with a 3 prong 240 male plug that I would like to use with my generator. The generator does not have a corresponding receptacle and would it be possible to swap out the plug on the MIG welder for a plug that corresponds with the receptacle on the generator? If so, I purchased a 10 foot, extremely heavy gage extension cord that match the plug on the MIG welder and rather than swap out the plug on the welder would it be possible to swap the plug on the extension cord? If it can be done, would the there be a significant voltage loss due to the gage and length of cord??

Existing Plug:

Replacement Plug:

Due to the size of the cords I would have an electrician change the connector.


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I’m no electrician. In fact, the last time I tried to do some electrical work ended up with a minor electrocution and me not being able to taste for an hour. However, in the IT world electricity is a key to our jobs. The mightiest Nexus 7k or QFabric deployment can be brought to its knees by inadequate power. The need to understand power and the the connectors that go along with it are vital.

Fabulous secrets were revealed to me the day I pulled up the Internet and started looking up the various codes for connectors that are used in electrical work. I figured out pretty quickly that electricians had a language all their own and that I needed to learn how to speak some of it in order to get things accomplished. After all, describing a connector as “one goes like this, the other goes like that” isn’t really helpful, especially over the phone. I wanted to pass on a bit of what I learned to all of you. A note for my international readers: this is going to be focused primarily on...

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The hot wires connect to brass-colored screws located on side Look for screw color on outlet
Brass (or black) for Hot, Silver for Neutral, Green for ground
Some outlets do not have color-coded screws.

Hot wires can be Black-Red or Black-White
Green screw => bare copper or green ground wire

Silver screw => Neutral.
Neutral not required for 240 volt
Ignore Neutral screw if no neutral wire available.

Image shows 2 hot wires with ground.
2 Hot wires and 1 ground wire.
Hot wires can be red and black -or- white and black
Either hot wire can connect to either brass terminal

Look for color of screws when wiring outlets
Green for ground, Hot1 and Hot2 connect to either brass-or-black screw. Outlet might not have neutral wire.
Neutral not required for 240 volt
Ground connection: Look For green screw

Twist Lock Image shows 2 hot wires with ground
Hot wires can be red and black -or-...
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Your electrician should be shot for even building such a thing. Buy a whole house unit or a manual switch that will take you completely off of the grid. You will be held liable for any deaths or damage you do. Lawyers will be camping out on your doorstep for years.

Another answer
If you needed an Electrician to fix up a "Backfeed Rig" you are probably not qualified to use it properly. The wire conflict between a 20 amp plug and a 30 amp plug is O.K.

What you should be worried about is who will get killed first, you or the lineman for the power company!

In our business we call that a "SUICIDE RIG" for a reason. If you can't afford an automated home stand-by system, at least install an open transition manual transfer switch!

If you have any doubts about an answer that you get, check the answerer's bio by clicking on their name to check their qualifications.

As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone...

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I’d like to know if it is okay to use a different power charger for my netbook. Originally, the charger specs are 19v and 1.58A. This charger is not available anymore and I can only find a 19v and 2.15A. Can I use this as a replacement?


With a couple of caveats, of course.

Getting the right power supply – if it’s not made specifically for your particular model of computer – involves matching voltage, amperage, and polarity.

And each have different constraints.


Let’s start with the simplest.

The voltage output by your charger/power supply should match as closely as possible. In your case, you’ve got that covered: you had 19 volts before and your replacement candidate is also 19 volts.

When replacing an external charger for a battery-based device like a laptop or netbook, it’s important to get the right voltage. The device may work with voltages that are close, but often at the cost of shortening the lifespan of...

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We were given a welder that has a big 240 volt plug, but our home doesn't have any 240V outlets already wired. What to do? Wire your own!

Turns out the plug we had is NEMA 6-50. You can probably figure out what yours is from a chart. If it's close, measure the lengths of the prongs and compare to what is listed. Once you know your plug type, find a mating receptacle on Amazon or somewhere else - probably about $10.

Now go check your breaker box. In most US residential neighborhoods, you'll have two thick wires coming in from the street. These are the mains 240V alternating current (oscillates between 120V positive and 120V negative). Each of the 120V AC outlets in your house uses one of the lines from the 240V pair and one "neutral" line (which has a 0V potential), so the total potential at the outlet is 120V. But we want 240V so we'll have to draw from both lines (poles) at once. For that, we'll need a double throw (2 pole) 50 or 60 Amp (lots of current for a...

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You are safe.

All you're taking about doing is plugging a 120V device into a 120V circuit, using a plug adapter you can purchase off the shelf.

For anything beyond this, consult a local licensed electrician.

If this wasn't safe, you couldn't just buy the adapters off the shelf. But you can buy these kinds of adapters:

Your UPS isn't going to draw any more current through a 30A breaker than it does through a 15A or 20A breaker.

All of your circuit breakers are clamped directly onto the fat aluminum buses in your service panel and subpanel(s), which are in turn directly connected to the fat cables that connect directly to the windings on the step-down transformer coil on the pole outside your home or office.

All the devices you plug into the wall, from a tiny 5 watt light bulb to your phone charger to your dishwasher, are directly connected to that transformer outside (which is directly connected to the high voltage power distribution...

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Always Disconnect the Power before beginning work!

Failure to follow this rule can result in death or injury.

Breaker and fuse panels remain hot even if the main breaker is turned off or the main fuse is removed. Main panels should only be worked on by qualified persons.

Incorrectly performed electrical work can result in fire, damage to property, and injury or death to people. Furthermore, in some jurisdictions it may be against the law for anyone other than a licensed electrician to perform electrical work, and work which is performed by unqualified people or which has not been inspected and approved may cause your homeowners insurance policy to be void.

To understand how a 240 volt (also known as 220 volt) household circuit works you should first know a little bit about how a regular 120 / 110 volt circuit works. If you are at all familiar with residential electrical wiring then you probably already know that in most cases appliances, and fixtures connect...

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There are a couple of types of plugs in homes - and the dryer manufacturer use this excuse to not ship a cord with the dryer - profiting that much more. You'll need to purchase a cord set for your dryer. Assuming you live in the U.S., that means you need a 30 amp 240 volt cord. That's easy enough, but it does get harder.

Most homes have an outlet that has three slots in it - like the one below:

A 240 volt, 30 amp, 3 wire dryer plug.

New homes have a safer, 240 volt 30amp 4 wire plug. They look like the one below:

A 240 volt, 30 amp, 4 wire dryer plug.

The code states that when a dryer is purchased it should be connected via a 4 wire cord. This means if you have the older, 3 wire outlet - it will have to be changed along with the entire length of cable between the electrical panel and the outlet (the new outlet needs a 4 wire cable - the older plug was supplied by a 3 wire cable).

Those are the rules. Many people opt to purchase the...

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I’ve been answering a lot of forum questions lately from RV owners who paid an electrician to install a 30-amp/120-volt TT-30 RV outlet for powering their RV in the driveway. But the electrician somehow gets the wiring wrong and connects 240-volts to their 30-amp RV outlet rather than 120-volts. Of course, plugging your 120-volt RV into an outlet mis-wired with 240-volts will destroy just about every electrical appliance, converter, inverter, and electronic gadget in your RV in a matter of seconds.

So why does this happen? Don’t electricians know better? Well, they should be reading the markings on outlet itself for the proper voltage, but it’s typically in very small black-on-black writing. I think the real cause of this costly mistake is that a 30-amp/120-volt RV outlet closely resembles a 30-amp/240-volt Dryer outlet. If you look closely at the pictures you’ll see that the 120-volt RV outlet has a U-shaped ground contact, while the 240-volt Dryer outlet has an L-shaped...

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all you'd need would be a power inverter (takes dc to ac), and if the amp wasn't all to powerful you could just wire it in like you would a car amplifier, use like an amplfier install kit for the power and ground, invest in a capacitor (which holds a high charge when you need an extra boost of power) and plug ur amp into the inverter

but if you want to mount a marshall full stack in the back of your escort, then i'd get maybe 3 optima dry cell batteries, blue top, deep cycle, and use those

edit: if you want to use your own car stereo to make sound, you would need a head unit with inputs, most common is either mp3 or rca (the red, white, and yellow cables)

you could patch and route a cable that would go from ur amps out to the rca in, if you're even able to split an instrument cables signal, not too sure on that, and you'd still have to power...

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The Ford C-Max Energi plug-in hybrid will charge overnight from just 110-volt house current. (Ford photo)

The most common scenario for electric cars is this: You buy the car, and then shell out another $2,000 for a garage-based 240-volt charger that, most likely, will come with some neat smart grid features allowing you to check charging status on your cellphone.

A lot of it will go down that way, but Dave Zehala, executive vice president of the Plug Smart energy services and technology start-up that grew out of the Center for Automotive Research at Ohio State, is making a bet that plug-in hybrids will catch on big, and they don’t necessarily need 240-volt charging—with smaller battery packs, 110-volt house current (known as Level I) will do.

Rob Peterson of General Motors told me that 80 percent of Chevy Volt charging will probably be through an eight-hour 110 connection. For battery EVs, it’s a bad proposition because it will simply take too long—14 to 20...

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Making a cord to connect a dryer socket to a smaller 240 volt plug (same kind of plug as on my table saw), but this one is for a European washer.
Dryer plugs typically have a 30-amp breaker on them. You could run a motor up to 6 hp off a dryer plug. as long as the motor is 240 volt single-phase. The socket I'm using here is normally used for 15 or 20 amp applications, so the breaker and house wiring are larger than needed.

This may cause the breaker to not pop if the circuit is overloaded, which may cause your wiring to overheat. The breaker will still pop for a short circuit, and the motor's thermal protection should take care of other cases. It might be a good idea to change the breaker to a 15-amp breaker, but then you would no longer be able to use the dryer socket with a clothes dryer.

A lot of commenters seem to get worked up over me cutting off the neutral and connecting ground. The plug has no neutral,...

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After it failing its two first attempts on the way home yesterday (see that post under my inquiry for "best portable", I sat down and gave it another chance at my shop before I used the 30 day Money Back guarantee..

It the Chicago Electric 80 Amp Inverter, and its TINY!, Runs on 110 volt, aand uses 1/16" 0r 3/32" rod...I bought some 1/16" at HF (may not ne the best rod to do an evaluation on. I was impressed by the quality of the cables. cords, and these little "Mini-Tweco" type connectors.

(No, I'm not a giant, the machine is just that small!)

I used a scrap of 1/16", and laid a 1/8" piece "barely overlapping", then a cut chain link on another spot. 1/16" 6013 rod at an indicated 55 amps, 25 foot 12 g. extension cord.
I know its sloppy, and that I "cut in" at the edges, but her's the results...

The back side shows good...

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The electrical systems on your RV can be a confusing subject. What you as an owner really need is a basic understanding of your RV electrical systems so you can be prepared not only to use your RV anywhere you need to, but to protect your appliances from expensive electrical damage.

If you are looking for a technical explanation of RV power and how it works you are in the wrong place. This page is designed with straightforward practicality in mind, to prepare you as an RVer with the knowledge necessary to safely and effectively operate an RV. No math equations, no scientific explanations, just what you really want to know as an RV owner.

Table Of Contents

Learn about RV electrical systems with these sections:

First things first, your RV electrical systems can be broken down into two categories: 12 volt systems, and 110/120 volt systems. Your 12 volt systems are run by your RV batteries. Your 110/120 volt systems are run by plugging your RV in or...

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