Can the parties who sign a building permit be liable in any way, shape or form of water damage to a building? [closed]

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Suppose you have a condo building. That condo building was built 10 years ago. The statutes of limitations is only good for 6 years (for negligence purposes). There is water damage to the condo's exterior, and was discovered 10 years after construction. There was no claim tied to the damage and starts just below the roof. So the insurance company insuring the condo association (exterior and common areas of the building) won't reimburse because there's no actual event that caused this damage.

The construction company who built the building disintegrated their company and now have a different name.

During the construction, there were building permits signed for the construction, HVAC, electrical, plumbing, etc...

There were three parties involved with the building permits. The owner (a realtor), the former construction company (who doesn't exist anymore) and the city building inspector.

This might be for a different StackExchange site, but....

Can...

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This varies greatly from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. It also depends on what kind of work and how much.

In many locations, minor electrical work, in-kind plumbing replacement, interior construction that does not change the overall footprint or the number or types of bedrooms, bathrooms, etc, (such as the building of a closet in an existing room) need no permit. However, some locales may require new installations to come up to a newer code level than those that they replace. You really need to check with your local building department to see what is allowed without permit and when permits are required.

Failure to get a permit for work that requires one could result in a stop work order if the building authority learns of the project. It also could result in the property not having a valid certificate of occupancy, which could make selling the property difficult. It also might compromise your relationship with your lender. Finally, it may put your insurance coverage...

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Yes, you can do it.

You could do all of it (given time and money), but take good note of the idea of subbing out the hard/specialty things (my personal list would include foundations, hvac, plumbing, electrical**, any siding that isn't wood, drywall***, flooring****, and the things that just take a lot of time/muscle (landscaping comes to mind, roofing gets close).

** electrical: I'd try and find an electrician that would let me bore holes and run wire exactly where he said, but good luck finding that individual

*** drywall: taping and skim is a pain, so I personally avoid that like the plague. Rocking itself is easy enough, but talk to your taper beforehand so that you get advice on how they want it done. Doing a crappy job rocking makes the taper's job harder, and you'll pay either in quality or price or both.

**** flooring: wood or wood-like flooring is a pain. Have you ever lifted a box of flooring?

Things I would do: (note that I'm a working...

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In my garage I have a nearly useless room that's 6'x10' but has this ... strange shelf of sorts in there. When I went to bust up the drywall to see whats behind it I found out it's been there since the house was built in the 80s (construction adhesive I've seen before). I have NO IDEA why this would be done this way and was hoping someone could explain. Here's what I'm working with.

looking toward the front ... (drywall is sloped from stairs heading to front door) hmmmmmm why a 2x6?

behind / under that 2x6 ... 2x4s laying flat, 2x6s vertical, heading out front

mouse hole and 2x6 -- not connected to garage wall

To the right is cinder block, to the left is the garage (2x4s and drywall), in front of this is the entry way (front of the house). I'm pretty sure I can't remove this, or if I wanted to, I would have to support the front steps that stick out about 5 feet before a deck starts. Is there any way I can reclaim this space and safely support the...

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I'm repairing a three season room. I took it down to the studs, put in new sill plates and sliding glass doors.

For the sill I put down Protecto wrap, latex caulk, a pressure treated 2x4 and secured to the pad with tap con concrete screws. I used a latex caulk on the outside of the 2x4 after it was secured.

Water is getting through during heavy rain in two places. It appears to come from under the sill, at the center post and the door on the right.

The latex caulk appears to be cracked.

There's no gutter so all the rain water ends up at the edge of the pad. But it is on a hill so the water should be draining away fairly quickly.

I still have to put the bottom trim on, under the door frame, in front of the sill.

Should I make sure there are no leaks before putting the trim on? Or, will the trim make it water tight?

With the latex caulk cracked, can I go over it with a silicone all weather caulk?

...

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Whereas it is not always a piece of cake to choose the right option for the interpretation or/and translation of terms, clauses and definitions in legal practice, it is my firm belief that the below analysis of model agreement composition will be of great use and importance in terms of reference and advice. In the day-to-day practice legal practitioners are normally mixed with the dilemma of the variety of options, at first sight, suitable for translation. Therefore the question of “Which is the standard and who actually sets it?” is more than justified.

In my humble translator’s opinion, no matter which kind of English we use in translation (i.e. B.E., A.E., or other Englishes etc), there is a standard you bear overall responsibility for, i.e. the one...

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I am always surprised about the things people build without a permit. Recently in court I had a defendant who had built an addition without any permits. He couldn’t even claim ignorance because he was in the building trade. He then complained when the inspector saw that his deck had been built without a permit. The defendant’s excuse for that one was that he bought the house that way. In another case, the homeowners only hired subcontractors who wouldn’t apply for permits. One of the potential subcontractors asked too many questions, didn’t get hired and turned the owners in to the municipality. In my book, The Building Process Simplified, I discussed the trouble people can get into when they cut corners and don’t do their due diligence before they buy property. I only wish more people would read that chapter in the book before they begin construction. Given the current economic circumstances I’m suspect that more and more people are failing to get permits in order to save money....

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Figure 1 - What are the time, cost and number of procedures to comply with formalities to build a warehouse?

Doing Business records all procedures required for a business in the construction industry to build a warehouse along with the time and cost to complete each procedure. In addition, Doing Business measures the building quality control index, evaluating the quality of building regulations, the strength of quality control and safety mechanisms, liability and insurance regimes, and professional certification requirements. Information is collected through a questionnaire administered to experts in construction licensing, including architects, civil engineers, construction lawyers, construction firms, utility service providers and public officials who deal with building regulations, including approvals, permit issuance and inspections.

Figure 2 - Dealing with construction permits: efficiency and quality of building regulation

The ranking of...

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