Confused about wiring


Heath/Zenith DualBrite Motion Sensor Light

can't call company's tech support because they are closed and i'm going out of town in 8 hours and don't want to come back to a pile of ash where my house use to be.

When installing the light , i'm suppose to connect single provided black to black and single provided white to white but when i took off the "old" dual light there was only red, pink, and white. Also on the old light there were 2 black wires leading from each lightbulb to.. (one to the red wire and one to the pink wire) and then white to white. Am i suppose to connect the black wire on the new light to both the red and pink (all 3 tied together under a cover)? OR am i suppose to connect the black wire to the red wire and then just cover the pink wire and leave it alone? Will it get hot and cause a fire because the power running through it has nowhere to go? Does it work that way? I already installed the light and i connected the single provided black wire from...

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First please forgive me if I am about to ask something silly; I am new to the world of the ESP

I've been reading around here and countless other sites for a couple of weeks now trying to find the "correct" way to wire up my ESP8266-01. In particular the "correct" way to deal with CH_PD and RST.

There are sources which say these can be connected directly to 3.3v, there are sources that say they must be connected through a resistor but give no values, there are sources which quote values of 1k, 3k3 or 10k. There are also resources which suggest to leave RST floating rather than tieing it high at all (as it apparently has it's own internal pull-up).

I know these modules are cheap, but the project I am planning requires long periods of unattended reliable operation and I want to get the design right first time.

Even Kolban's wonderful e-book shows examples of both direct connection and connection via a resistor with no notes...

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Wiring and soldering went well, and I've just finished jamming a bit.

Sounds good and the pickups behave as expected when being controlled by the 3-way switch.

Now, one thing I noticed is that the middle position (split coil) center is a good deal quieter than full bridge or full neck pickups. I mean, that's to be expected, and I certainly know this was the case before with SS/AN, but it just *seems* that the volume difference is even greater with CL/LF. But maybe that's just my initial reaction. The pickups are overall hotter than SS/AN, so maybe that's throwing off my perception a bit.

Either way, I have to say that overall, I'm not disappointed so far, but I'm not all that impressed either. But truth be told, I've only had a chance to play the guitar through my BOSS GT-6 using headphones, so we'll see how it'll sound through my Mesa Boogie. It could be that these pickups just don't shine that well in a digital amp-modeler device such as the GT-6. At...

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Last Updated July 05, 2015 13:09 PM

I'm trying to install a 3-way switch for a specific light but I'm not sure how to do the wiring.

The existing switch box has quite wires inside:

3x 12-2 1x 12-3

The hots (black) are all tied together, the neutrals are all tied together, and the grounds are all tied together.

However, the existing switch has one hot (black) wire connected, and a RED wire from the 12-3 wire.

The light fixture itself only has 12-2 connected (black, white, and copper/ground).

How would I install a second (three-way) switch to this setup?

Answers 1

Assuming this is the setup you have described:

You will need to pull a new 12/3 cable to your new 3-way switch. You will also have to replace your existing switch with a 3-way switch. Your wiring setup will look like this:

Because your lighting circuit's power is supplied by a conductor in a 12/3 cable, the...

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Ok, so we're pulling wires in my upstairs which is going remarkably smoothly considering what we're dealing with. We have found some really bizarre stuff (I'll add that to my nightmare thread) but last night was cross wiring, which I don't understand.

Here's the background: Breaker #2 (15 amp) on the second floor runs the basement lights, the light over the kitchen sink, one counter outlet, and the refrigerator outlet. All old wires.

Breaker #9 in the basement runs a single outlet on the second floor. New wires.

Last night, after turning off all five breakers in the second floor panel, I decided to test all of the breakers with my "noise maker tester." Breaker 2 had power coming up to it from the wire on the outside of the breaker. Meaning that the wire was getting power from a different source, not the breaker itself.

I was all sorts of confused, but we had work to do, so I shut the power off to the whole house and we got last night's wires pulled....

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Customer has a Totaline P274-1200 thermostat that is bad. The P274-1200 is apparently discontinued, so I'm going to have to replace it with a similar unit. Before removing the old one, I wanted to make sure that understood the wiring. I don't. The HVAC is a one stage cool-two stage heat pump.

Here is the wiring (Figure 14) from the P274-1200 manual (you can click on the image for a zoomed version):

Here is a picture of the defecting thermostat:

My dilemma is that the white wire, according to the schematic, shows as going to "Y1/W2". In reality, it goes to "W/W1". All four DIP switches are off, as in the diagram. The system has been working for ten years, so the present wiring scheme must be valid.

If you can help me understand this discrepancy, I'll have a better chance of quickly installing the replacement thermostat.

Edited to Add: Here is the link to the P274-1200 Manual.

Residential HVAC Questions and discussions...
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