Do I need to replace or treat moisture-damaged studs in a shower area before replacing cement board?


I bought my house in 2011 after it was built in 2009. It originally had a cheap molded plastic shower surround, but I removed it in order to install tile.

I then discovered that the cement board had been poorly installed. The contractor had left no gap between the bottom of the board and the tub edge, so water had been wicking into the cement board and had led to what looks like some minor mold growth.

I removed the cement board to replace it, and discovered that the moisture had apparently penetrated the cement board and reached one group of studs:

I don't see anything that looks obviously like mold, and there's no moisture palpable in the affected area. The wall has been open like this for a few weeks, so I'd assume anything remaining has dried out.

My question: Is there anything I should do to treat this area before installing new cement board? Do I need to replace the studs or spray/coat them with anything? Or, if everything has dried out and...

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Whenever the steam from a warm shower hits the cool air in the rest of the bathroom, condensation occurs. When you get condensation behind your shower enclosure, it can lead to mold, mildew, swelling of the studs in the wall and other problems. Moisture and condensation are the two biggest problems to contend with when building a new shower. Prevent these problems before they occur by installing some type of moisture or vapor barrier every time you build a shower.

What Moisture Barriers Do

No matter how watertight you think your shower is, moisture in the form of water vapor may still get in. A seam in an acrylic shower or a cracked grout joint or some missing caulk in a tile shower are all that is needed to let moisture get behind your shower enclosure. Moisture barriers stop that water or vapor from getting any farther and potentially rotting your studs, the drywall or greenboard installed behind the enclosure. They are required beneath your shower pan and behind...

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I run a construction company. We swear by cement board and don't even use plaster board anymore. attached is a partial article on why green board is being phased out:
Contractors take note: “greenboard” is being drummed out of the tile industry as a ceramic tile substrate in wet areas. Though traditional greenboard has a moisture-resistant gypsum core and moisture-resistant paper facings, over the years more durable, water-resistant products have been developed that perform better and ensure fewer water-related failures.

In fact, Kieren Corcoran, national product manager for Georgia-Pacific Corp. noted the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) further accelerates the trend away from greenboard stating, “Water-resistant gypsum backing board [greenboard] shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water.” (Section R702.3.8.1)

The 2006 IRC goes on to say that “Cement, fiber cement or glass mat gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325 or C1178...

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Devon, I'm gonna respectfully disagree with a few things posted in the last response and offer up some additional useful info for you as well. It's also nice to see you've done some research ahead of time and are already aware of the preslope requirement for the shower pan to function properly.

"You will also need a 9" tall blocking in between framing members to support shower liner.

Simply purchase a 2x10 lumber, cut to size and fasten in between studs.

Once you get all of your walls ready you can proceed and frame a curb."

One part left out is that code states the liner cannot occupy the plane of the wall. Now what that means is your liner needs to be recessed to be flush with the face of the studs and therefore so does your blocking have the need to be recessed a bit. There are 2 reasons for this. The first is that the wall/floor intersection is a movement joint and having the liner pinched would cause abrasive wear and failure over time. The second...

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Installing cement backerboard is one of the more popular choices for a shower wall substrate. Cement backerboards include Hardiebacker, Durock, Fiberboard, wonderboard, and similar products. These materials bridge the gap between expense and effectiveness. When installed properly they will give you many, many years of durable shower construction.

The advantage of cement backerboards is that, while not waterproof, they are dimensionally stable when wet. That just means that when they get wet they do not swell up. Any swelling behind tile is a bad thing. It will lead to cracking grout, tile, and all sorts of bad things.

Waterproofing your studs

To install the backerboard you must have a vapor barrier between it and the wooden wall studs. While the backerboard will not swell when wet, your wall studs will. You must prevent any moisture from reaching them. The preferred material for a vapor barrier would be 4 mil or thicker plastic sheeting which can be purchased...

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Water damage can happen to any home or building. The most common cause of water damage is from either a weather-related flood...

For any kind of home, water can damage wood subfloors. In older mobile homes, the damage water can do is potentially much...

Moisture trapped under a building's walls often rots the subfloor. Left alone, the moisture eventually destroys the joists below, and the wall's...

Subfloor is commonly misunderstood. There are different variations. The subfloor for residential homes is typically 5/8- or 3/4-inch-thick plywood or oriented strandboard....

Replacing a bad floor in a mobile home is actually a very quick and simple task. The flooring of a mobile home...

Water damage is a common problem with mobile homes, especially in the kitchen and bathroom, because the sub-flooring is made of particle...

You can repair wood floor damage in a travel trailer but it's not a beginner's project. It takes time and...

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For each part of a renovation or new construction project, there exists a list of green priorities springing from the context of each part of the project.

The major categories (in my green mind) in no particular order are:

Energy Efficiency

Indoor Air Quality


Renewable Resources

Recycling/Recycled Content

Environmental Impact

Water (minimizing usage, managing runoff, storing and reusing rain)

For a painting project, Indoor Air Quality moves to the top of the priority list. Similarly, when constructing a building envelope for an addition or new home, Energy Efficiency and Durability top the list.

For a shower gut renovation, the one category that dominates all others is Durability. Without proper installation, there will be problems with moisture control and subsequent issues with water damage and mold. Even using the largest recycled-content tile, and the lowest-flowing shower head if...

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Loosen the adhesive under the tabs two rows above the damage.

Removing all the shingles on the roof is usually done with a large hayfork , or rake-sized scraper used for removing shingles. Since you're only removing a portion of shingles, though, it's usually better to use a smaller tool. A pry bar, crow-bar, or the claw of a hammer works perfectly at getting under and carefully prying up shingles, separating the adhesive and revealing the nails of the shingles underneath.

A good rule of thumb is to remove at least five tabs in the second row above the damaged "3-tab" shingle. Pull up enough shingles to reveal the nails of all the damaged shingles that need removed below. The end seams should be lined-up about a foot off to one side of the damaged one. In other words, you'll want to make sure that you pull off shingles in a radius around the damaged portion, to make sure you get...
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Replacing a damaged piece of wall paneling requires a lot of hard work. If you have a big house and most of your walls are damaged, expect to put in a lot of long hours and even days on your project. However, the good news is that replacing your wall panelings on your own can help you save a lot of money. (This is Part 1 of a 2 part series. To move ahead to Part 2, click here.)

To help you replace damage wall paneling, here is what you need to do.

Tools and Materials Needed

Hammer Nails (different sizes) Fine-toothed saw Tape measure or rule Carpenter's square Straightedge rule Level Utility knife Plumb line Powdered chalk Chalk line Drill and bits Saber saw Coping saw Miter box Heavy-duty construction adhesives Caulking gun Waterproof primer Moldings Putty stick carpenter's chalk Paint brush Studs Stud-finder Eye protection Working Gloves

Step 1 – Test the Walls

Before you start taking your wall panelings down, you need to assess the extent of...

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By Bruce W. Maki, Editor


If there is one fundamental flaw with older wood-framed buildings, it's the fact that ordinary lumber was used adjacent to masonry. Concrete, brick, stone and mortar are porous and absorbent materials that are capable of wicking moisture upward from the ground. And since the ground in many areas is usually damp, this means that any wood placed next to masonry could be continually damp. A common problem with older buildings is decay (rot) that attacks the lower-most wood components.

The lowest structural component on many wood-frame buildings is the sill plate. There are regional variations in terminology, so in some places this piece may be known by another name, such as the mudsill. The term sill plate normally means a piece of wood that is attached to the top of a foundation wall. Floor joists would normally rest on the sill plate, then floor sheathing on top of the joists.

But Where To Start?


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Sunburn can be a painful reminder of forgetting sunscreen on a hot summer day. Sunburn is either first-degree or second-degree burn of the skin, depending on the duration and severity of exposure to the sun’s UV rays. Many people take a cool shower to relieve the burning of the skin, but then feel it made their sunburn look worse. However, a shower won’t actually make sunburn worse and in reality can actually help it.

The reasons why a shower may make a sunburn look worse varies. It takes at least two hours after prolonged, unprotected sun exposure for the first signs of redness to appear. It takes almost 24 hours before the full extent of the damage is visible. Since most people shower after being at the beach or pool or having been at some other outdoor activity, a shower may appear to have made a sunburn appear worse simply because of the time that has lapsed.

Another reason why a shower may make a sunburn look worse is because most people with sunburn take cool...

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