Does WPC flooring need expansion gaps / transition strips for distances greater than 40 feet?


In a perfect world, flooring would be seamless from room to room. Your hardwood would flow continuously from living room to bedroom to kitchen to bathroom.

In the real world of remodeled homes, you cannot help but transition from one flooring type to another, because different rooms need different types of flooring. For example, the Brazilian Cherry works great in the living room, but you must transition to porcelain in the bathroom due to moisture issues.

Seams Between Two Floors of the Same Material

If you are transitioning from one type of flooring to the same type (i.e., ceramic to ceramic), you probably do not need a transition at all; you may be able to butt one floor against the other.

Even so, seams are often incorporated between rooms of "like" materials to provide for expansion and contraction. Thus, a transition strip would be needed in these cases.

Seams Between Floors of Different Materials

If you are dealing with two...

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This one flexible transition strip that can be used as 7 different transition profiles including t-molding, reducer, stair nose and more! Flexible track base included with each Cal-Flor Total Trim transition strip. Total Trim is incredibly easy to use. Simply remove the portion you won't need and install with the included track.

Sold in 46" long sections and available in 2 different wood grain finishes to match your flooring. This transition has a 1/4" height leg, but it can be adjusted up to the height of 3/8" with included black flexible track base.

You can transform this flexible transition into 7 different profiles:

Stair Nose - Covers expansion gaps while trimming out a stair or landing up to 3/4" thick. Cover Cap - Covers wide or varying gaps for flooring on one side and butts tightly to the other side (example tile to even cut wood or carpet) End Cap - Covers expansion gaps while providing a flush fit to another flooring or to a vertical surface (example...
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Dear Todd

Good for you, keep up the good work, a job well done is it's own reward.

As to gluing the second to last row, that's fine for strip floor, but use a decent carpenters glue and be sure to keep the glue off the subfloor. I use a small strip of flooring paper to prevent the glue from binding the hardwood floor to the subfloor thus creating a dead spot in the floor.

Now as to the thin base boards the cheap builders are using (sometime made of MDF, boy is that cheap), you solution is to undercut the drywall. This will solve two problems for you. Most walls are at least sheathed with 1/2" or thicker drywall. If you carefully score the last 3/4" of drywall with a knife you will find that a dull chisel and vacuum cleaner will remove all the debris. Use a scrap piece of hardwood to guide your knife of course. Be really careful though not to cut through the vapor barrier.

With this gap at the bottom of the drywall (only on the width side of the hardwood...

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What is an expansion gap and is it really necessary to leave the recommended 3/4" gaps around the perimeter of the room to protect against hardwood floor expansion? First of all, an expansion gap is nothing more than a space that is left between the wood planks and the walls, columns, baseboards, thresholds, or any other spots that are part of your house. The reason why you need expansion gaps is because of how wood reacts with moisture and humidity as well as dryer climates. When the environment is humid, the wood will expand, absorbing the moisture in the air. When it is dry, the wood will contract or shrink. When expansion happens, you risk the possibility of buckled hardwood floors. When it contracts, cracking occurs.

Different types of hardwood will react differently. For example, solid hardwood flooring is going to contract and expand far more easily than engineered wood. How much it reacts to moisture or dryness will largely depend on the wood species you selected,...

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