Dryer terminal block arcing


A good heating element should have continuity. When the heating element breaks, there is no continuity between the heater terminals. But sometimes, the broken ends of the heating element can make contact with the metal heater housing (from vibration) and draw a large current, causing the symptoms you have described.

To confirm a "short" between the heating element and the heater housing, check for continuity between the housing and each heater terminal. (The shorted part of the heating element is usually welded to the housing.) Occasionally, the short will not be welded, but a visual inspection will verify (welding scars and black soot) that a short has occurred, intermittantly.

Replace the terminal block, heater, damaged internal wiring, and possibly the thermal fuse, thermostats, and power cord.


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A modern front-load tumble clothes dryer for home application

A clothes dryer, tumble dryer, drying machine or dryer is a powered household appliance that is used to remove moisture from a load of clothing and other textiles, usually shortly after they are washed in a washing machine. Clothes may also be dried by natural evaporation and, if available, sunlight, on an outdoor or indoor clothes line or clothes horse.

Many dryers consist of a rotating drum called a "tumbler" through which heated air is circulated to evaporate the moisture, while the tumbler is rotated to maintain air space between the articles. Using these machines may cause clothes to shrink or become less soft (due to loss of short soft fibers/lint). A simpler non-rotating machine called a "drying cabinet" may be used for delicate fabrics and other items not suitable for a tumble dryer.

Tumbler dryers[edit]

Tumbler dryers continuously draw in the cool, dry, ambient air around them and...

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Disassembly Procedures



2. Disconnect ground wire from motor.

3. Pry two motor clamps off motor mounting bracket

with screwdriver. Then lift motor out of mounting


NOTE: When replacing motor, motor switch should be

at 10 o'clock position. The positioning tab on the

motor should be engaged with the anti-rotating

notch in the motor bracket.

Terminal Block

1. Disconnect power supply to unit.

2. While supporting the lower access panel, remove

two screws from bottom edge of lower access panel.

3. Gently lower the access panel to disengage locators

from bottom edge of front panel.

4. Remove two screws holding bottom tabs on front

panel to dryer side panels. Swing bottom of front

panel away from dryer far enough to disengage hold-

down clips and locators from cabinet top.

5. Disconnect wires from door switch.


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How To Wire A Terminal Block How To Correctly Wire A Cord In An Electric Dryer Terminal Block

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For more tech advice on your repair, or to order parts, visit http://Appliantology.org Become a certified appliance repair technician at our online school, the Samurai Tech Academy: http://MasterSamuraiTech.com There's a lot of confusion out there on how to wire a 4-wire cord on an electric dryer. If you search the web, you find all kinda crazy and just plain wrong junk out there. Heck, it's a veritable dookie storm of wrong info! "Come in," says the Samurai and he'll give you shelter from the storm. In this amazing episode of Appliantology TV, Samurai Appliance Repair Man shows you the right way-- contrasted with the wrong way-- to wire a dryer terminal block for the 4-wire dryer cord. Buy appliance parts and get free repair help at...

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Dryer Outlet Circuit


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Wiring a Dryer Receptacle & Circuit

Dryer wire cable between circuit panel and dryer plug is 10 AWG, black / red / white / bare (or green). X & Y are interchangeable, red and black wires are ungrounded (hot) wires, one wire on the X, and the other on the Y. The grounded conductor (neutral [white]) and the bare (or green) equipment ground wire MUST be on there designated connection. In the diagram bellow the bare (or green) ground is indicated by a green line. The ...

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This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the terminal block on a Whirlpool/Kenmore electric dryer. The most common reasons for replacing the terminal block are when the dryer trips the breaker or the dryer doesn’t work at all.

Click here to purchase part #3397659:

Additional dryer repair, troubleshooting tips, help with finding your model number and part replacement videos can be found on our website:

All of the information for this terminal block replacement video is applicable to the following brands:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Roper, KitchenAid, Crosley, Estate, Amana, Inglis, Admiral

Tools needed: hex socket, flat head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver

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Table of Contents:

Statistical Data - 15,000 Dryer Fires per Year

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that in 1998, clothes dryers were associated with 15,600 fires, which resulted in 20 deaths and 370 injuries. Fires can occur when lint builds up in the dryer or in the exhaust duct. Lint can block the flow of air, cause excessive heat build-up, and result in a fire in some dryers.

According to data gathered between 1999 and 2002 by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), 4 % of all reported structural fires involved a clothes dryer [1].

Dryer Fires : 1999 - 2002 [1]

[1] NFPA: U.S. Home Product Report, Appliances & Equipment, November 2005.

2014 Electrolux Class Action Lawsuit Settlement

In 2014, there was a settlement of a class action lawsuit against Electrolux: United States District Court for Central District of California, Case No.:...

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Careless troubleshooting of a microwave oven can result in death or worse. Experienced technicians have met their maker as a result of a momentary lapse of judgement while testing an oven with the cover removed. Microwave ovens are without a doubt, the most deadly type of consumer electronic equipment in wide spread use.

The power supplies for even the smallest microwave ovens operate at extremely lethal voltage and current levels. Do not attempt to troubleshoot, repair, or modify such equipment without understanding and following ALL of the relevant safety guidelines for high voltage and/or line connected electrical and electronic systems.

We will not be...

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Mass airflow sensors (MAF), which are used on a variety of multiport fuel injection systems, come in two basic varieties: hot wire and hot film. Though slightly different in design, both types of sensors measure the volume and density of the air entering the engine so the computer can calculate how much fuel is needed to maintain the correct fuel mixture.

Mass airflow sensors have no moving parts. Unlike a vane airflow meter that uses a spring-loaded flap, mass airflow sensors use electrical current to measure airflow. The sensing element, which is either a platinum wire (hot wire) or nickel foil grid (hot film), is heated electrically to keep it a certain number of degrees hotter than the incoming air. In the case of hot film MAFs, the grid is heated to 75 degrees C. above incoming ambient air temperature. With the hot wire...

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How Air Conditioners Work & When They Don't Work


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Are you sweating and want to fix or at least learn about air conditioning, either home or car then you are at the right place.

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If you know that the problem is electrial ie. fan motor not running or everything isnt running then go here to my a/c electric page.

The main thing to remember is that all freon(refrigerants) work the same way no matter what is cooled, as in ice machines,de-humidifiers,freezers,coolers for flowers,ect.

They all have a compressor, evaporator(cold coil), condensor(hot coil), expansion valve, and some way to remove the heat such as fans,water,buried...

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It may be easier to construct the support for your secondary coil before beginning this step. To do this, follow these 4 steps:

1. Cut a 4.5"x4.5" piece of 3/4" plywood.

2. Drill a 4" hole exactly through the center of this piece.

3. Gorilla glue the piece exactly in the middle of the top layer of your base.

4. Drill a small 1/4" hole through the top layer of your base, right through the center of where you just glued the support for the secondary. This hole will be explained later.

Now, back to making the primary:

The primary coil generates the magnetic flux needed to allow all of your components to work together. As current is pushed through the primary coil, it will resonate at a certain frequency, coupling it to your secondary coil. It is necessary to be able to tune this resonance for the best results, so I took that into consideration when coming up with this design.

Your first step should be to acquire a 50' roll of 1/4"...

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