Questions about: electrical - страница 5

I am installing an electric kickspace/toe kick heater as part of my kitchen remodel. I do not quite understand how to transition the supply wiring from inside the wall to the space underneath of the cabinet where the heater will located. It seems if
I am running electricity (for light and a couple of outlets) into my garden. I am trying to decide on which wire thickness I need to choose. FWIW, I am in Europe
I have ceiling fixtures, let's call them A and B. Normally, both fixtures are always on (lit) -- no switch controls them. When I remove the bulb from A, fixture B goes out
Yes, you can use existing wiring to feed a sub-panel. (you cannot put a plug on a sub-panel as far as I know. ) If the wiring is not quite long enough to reach your sub-panel location, put a junction box there and splice to an additional cable
I have some 14/3 Romex coming out of the wall. It used to power ceiling fans with a light on different switches (one turned on the light, another the fan). I did some work down circuit and was looking to hook it all back up and am having trouble
The machine runs on low-voltage AC or DC from a pluggable "wall wart" transformer, and they simply give you a different transformer for different voltages. Internally, the machine has matched sets of 2 things: heating elements, motor windings, etc. F
The reason is, the ceramic potting inside the heating element is porous and moisture gets in and causes a small amount of current to leak to ground through its high resistance and trips the GFI. Try this, with the power removed, BE SURE all electric
Well it is the National Electrical Code that requires 25 Ohms or less. Notice the exception after #5. 250
I recently installed a monorail lighting kit in my home office; I wanted another spot-light which meant I need to swap out the included transformer to something that would allow more than 100 watts. I now have the issue of random breakers tripping. W