Fixing TV on concrete behind drywall

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The introduction of flat-screen TVs made it possible to save tons of space by mounting your TV on a wall of your choice. Today, there are so many options for wall-mounting hardware for a TV that buying one can be a daunting task.

Fortunately, we did the research for you to narrow down the list to the five best TV wall mounts. They are:

Selecting the right one means you’ll be able to use it for years, even if you change your television. Knowing how to install it is also important, so we’ve provided some installation tips for you as well. Here are three features worth considering when choosing the best TV wall mount.

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Look for a TV wall mount that’s easy to install in nearly any space.

Ease of Installation and Adjustment

To best protect your TV and ensure years of use, a TV wall mount needs to be installed properly. This means that the mount should be screwed into a wall’s studs, which are the wood frame behind the drywall that...

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Wide-open spaces offer a spacious living style to a 140sq m home. Designed by Mode:Lina and located in Poznan, Poland, the clients wanted a home that reflected their tastes for Scandinavian style and Mode:Lina achieved this by using raw concrete combined with lots of white and wood tones, complimented by shades of grey. A vibrant and lively shade of cadmium yellow is used as the accent colour and while used sporadically throughout the home, it makes an appearance in every room whether by architectural details or by artwork. The client’s wanted a contained area that held the fireplace, TV viewing area and shelving for their book and album collections – with the shelving being the feature of the area. This was accomplished by creating a zone wrapped in a white architectural framework with a raised hearth that continues into a low media console. The fireplace is tucked into the side of the zone and the wall behind the TV is made less visible by colour blocking the wall behind with a...

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After spending big money on your beautiful new television and hanging it on the wall, you don't want loose cords and cables ruining the aesthetic. Luckily, there's simple fix that just about anyone can do, and it's dirt cheap to boot.

Running TV cords behind the wall is the cleanest solution for hiding them, and much easier than you think. Start by cutting a hole in the drywall behind your TV and another one behind your entertainment center. Next, pull the cords through these easy mount plates, and tighten them to the wall. Though in many areas it's against code to run high voltage (power) cords through the wall, so consider setting up an outlet behind the TV for that.

To finish this project you'll need a drywall saw to cut your holes and a screwdriver to secure the mounts. A studfinder is helpful for identifying open spaces behind the wall to run the cables through. Less than $15 later, you've got one spiffy TV veg-out...

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Walk down the hardware aisle of any home center, and you’ll find an overpowering array of wall anchors and picture hangers. While it’s easy enough to drive a nail or screw through drywall and into a stud, many homeowners have problems figuring out how to secure items to the wall between studs or in hard surfaces like brick or concrete.

Here’s what you need to know about using wall anchors and picture hangers in your home.

Wall Materials

The type of anchor you use is often determined by the wall material. Drywall or wood paneling require little to drill or nail into while delicate surfaces like plaster take more finesse and hard materials, like masonry and concrete, require more muscle.

Drywall

Drywall alone has little holding power. When attaching lightweight objects (20 pounds or less), standard picture hangers or wire hangers work fine and do little damage to the wall. For medium weight items (20-40 pounds) consider a spreading type...

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Alright we're going to get your TV mounted on the wall, fuck that TV stand horse crap.

First thing to do is to hold the TV mounting plate on the wall where you want it. Use a pencil to mark around it, giving you a template. Next up, cut the drywall out using the pencil marks as your guide. This will let you see what you're working with.

Don't worry about the furring strips. Leave them alone and just remove the drywall and drywall fasteners. I am going to bet good money that behind the wall is cinderblock. If that's the case, we're going to secure the plate using either toggle bolts or drywall anchors embedded into the cinderblock. These will work well because cinderblock is most likely hollow. If the masonry back there is more solid, like concrete, then just bolt that mother fucker in there using something like Tapcons or Redheads.

Make sure that you shim the mounting plate to be plum, dependent on whether it will be up against a furring strip or...

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the short answer is that you will cut two holes the one where you put the wires in the wall and one where you pull the wires out of the wall. Ideally these holes are above and below each other vertically.

Assuming you want to hang a flat screen TV on your wall then you'll need to cut a hole somewhere behind the TV where the wires will come out. Below that hole, maybe 6 to 12 inches above the ground you will cut another hole where you will feed the wires into the wall. there are special fishing tools you can buy at a home renovation store that you can use to feed through the top hole down to the bottom hole then attach your wires and then pull it up through the wall and out the top hole. or you can use a long length of copper wire. that is the simplest version if you must go through a stud in the wall I get a lot more complex. there are various pictures you can put into the hole so that it covers the hole and looks somewhat attractive.

you may have a horizontal board between...

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Did you know you could mount your flat screen TV to a multitude of different wall surfaces, including wood studs, metal studs, brick and concrete? In this short article, we will explain everything you need to know!

What is a wall stud?
A stud is a vertical support member located behind your wall. The dry wall that makes up your walls are not free standing; Instead, they are supported by these vertical supports called Studs. In the United States, wall studs are usually 16inches from center-to-center. However, in some areas of the country wall studs are 24” apart center-to-center. To be 100% confident that the wall mount you purchase will work with your studs, refer to the “compatibility checklist” on each product webpage. This will provide back plate dimensions so you can make sure the back plate will span the width of your studs.

How do wall studs relate to TV mounting?
You should never attempt to mount to dry wall alone! By mounting your TV through the dry...

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Holes in the wall, concrete behind drywall, shelving disaster. help!

I’m trying to put up shelves on a wall that, I believe, is drywall over concrete. I made holes for plastic anchors, but the drywall part isn’t deep enough for them to fit. Help, I’m about as handy as the two I have at the of my arms!

I want to hang a set of Ikea Ribba shelf on the wall of my condo. I made the holes hoping to use plastic anchors but then realized that there is a much more solid surface behind the drywall. Its the wall that borders the stairwell in the building so it must be concrete, right.

It rings negative with the stud finder, and bends any nail I try to hammer into it.

II) What do I do with the holes in the wall? Can I fill them in with something, and then drill through that with the tapconscrew? There is about an inch of drywall.

Or should I just choose a different drill site?

III) Is there any chance this could be anything else besides...

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Absolutely it is in British Columbia. I don't know for sure if it's code, but it's absolutely standard practice in stairwells (usually the only place where you get your whole two floors height in one wall.

I'm an alarm technician, and I see it (the gap and the trim that covers it) in every new house. Mine has the same bulge at the seam at the level of the upper floor, because it was built before that trick was introduced.

I assume it's not a rule in the US since nobody seems to know about it, but it's standard here, and it WILL fix the OP's problem (assuming it's only one seam, but if it's several, once the gap is introduced, the others can probably be fixed.)

What 'framing' would fix it, in your opinion? Clearly it's downward pressure. Sure, a heavier point load may have reduced the effect, but the direction of pressure certainly appears to be downwards.

I guess that's why we leave a 3/8" gap at the bottom of a...

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Rigifix M6 Drywall Fixings – Pack of 6

Our revolutionary Rigifix drywall fixings are the only professional solution to hanging heavy items to dry lined plasterboard walls. Plasma Screens, boilers, sanitary ware, kitchen units, radiators, shelving, curtain poles, air conditioning units and many more can be fixed using our drywall fixings. The load is transferred to the masonry without affecting the integrity of the plasterboard.

Rigifix is ideal for fixing to Thermalite and similar lightweight concrete blocks.

Plug: Nylon

Sleeve: High Quality Carbon Machine Steel

Bright zinc coated for protection.

Rigifix Drywall Fixings Installation

1. M6 Drill Size: 12mm
2. Mark a location and drill hole through the plasterboard and into the masonry behind
3. Drill hole depth from the face of the plasterboard – M6: 100mm
4. Insert the Rigifix nylon plug section of the fixing
5. Using an allen key, or using the Rigifix driver,...

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When you can't get access to the floor joists from below, your only choice is to make the repairs from above. The trick, however, is to silence the squeaks without damaging the finished floor. Fortunately, there are two fastening systems, both manufactured by O'Berry Enterprises, that can do just that. Carpeting. The Squeeeeek-No-More Kit (about $30) can be used on carpeting laid over a wood subfloor. The kit consists of a screwdriver bit, pilot screw to help you locate joists, depth-control fixture and 50 specially designed breakaway screws. First, locate the joist nearest the squeak. Stand the depth-control fixture on the carpet directly over the joist. After wrapping transparent tape around one of the screws to prevent it from catching on the carpet strands, drive it through the fixture. Remove the fixture, tip it sideways and insert the screwhead into the slot in the top of the fixture. Rock the fixture side to side until the screwhead snaps off below the surface of the...

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If part of a shingle is missing, you'll have to replace the whole thing. First see if you have any leftover shingles from the last time the roof was worked on (with any luck, the builder or the roofer who handled the job left some behind). If not, you'll have to buy a bundle at a home center or lumberyard ($15 to $20 per square—100 sq. ft.—of standard three-tab shingles). If you can't find a perfect match, choose the closest one.

Replacing a damaged shingle requires a hammer, a flat pry bar, a utility knife and a handful of 11/4-in. roofing nails. Each shingle is initially secured with four nails; when the next shingle course above is installed, however, its nails also pass through the top edge of the shingles in the course below.

Begin removing the first row of nails by sliding the pry bar under the shingle immediately above the damaged one and gently lifting it to free it from the sealer strip. You'll see the first row of nails beneath.

Slip the pry bar under...

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Carefully cut the loose tape off and get a small roll of self adhering mesh tape. You'll find it where the drywall finish tapes and compounds are in most hardware stores. Pick up a small bucket of joint compound. After ridding the area of loose material, place some mesh tape over the joint and work in a coat of joint compound using a 3" putty knife, one that has a little flex to it. You can even get an inexpensive plastic one for this repair. Let that dry, carefully sand any bumps and apply a second coat and let dry. Try to lay it on as smooth as possible and feather the edges after applying the mud by wiping the outer edges smooth. Let dry and carefully sand, apply a third coat if necessary. To match the texture, homax has a texture repair kit in a spray can, typically for orange peel textures but you can do a knockdown with it. Spray the texture on and let it sit until a light skin has formed on the texture, take your putty knife and lightly flatten out the texture to match your...

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Personally, I would replace this tub; Tubs are cheap, relatively speaking, and if you have a large crack that's flexing, it may indicate impending failures elsewhere in the tub (part of the tub already couldn't handle the stresses).

The major problem with replacing a tub in an existing home is getting it out, and the new one in. Bathroom doors are generally on the narrow side, and hallways also trending toward the narrow. Between the two you may find that cutting up the old tub is the easiest way to get it out, but that's usually not an option for your brand-new tub.

Also, most bathtubs have tile backsplashes and/or shower areas. You will need to remove the first course or two of tiles above the level of the tub, so the new tub's backsplash can be put in behind the tile. The tile, if properly installed, will not come off in one piece, and most contractors won't even try unless instructed by you (at significantly higher job cost). If that tile isn't something very...

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I know. It’s a big, scary looking thing but once I explain it, it’ll be about as scary as a chocolate covered cotton ball.

Which is actually incredibly scary. You’d think it was a nice round chocolate you were biting into but inside would be horrid squinchy cotton. Like running fingernails down a chalkboard but for your teeth.

So, we’ve all been there I’m sure … hung a nice full sized cow on our wall only to have it fall down in the middle of the night, scaring the farts right out of the cat. It happens. But it doesn’t have to.

For some reason people are under the impression that hanging things on the wall is frightening. I think it’s the whole things falling off of the wall scenario we’ve all lived through. But that’s only because you’re using the wrong drywall anchors. I’ve used them too. I’ll admit it. Those plastic coloured anchors that you hammer into the drywall. You keep screwing and screwing your screw into it and it just keeps spinning and...

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Bob recaps construction of the stem-wall foundation and integral concrete slab, the vertical steel reinforcing, steel mesh, window bucks, headers, and spacers put in place for the cast-in-place concrete walls. Cameron Parker and the crew of Solid Wall Systems spray the aluminum wall forms with an organic oil spray to prevent adhesion from the concrete and set the forms for the pour. Bob joins Wayne Sallade, Charlotte County Emergency Manager, to review cleanup, demolition, and repair one year after Hurricane Charley. sallade explains that housing built in the 1960s through the 1980s, before the Florida Unified Building Code, had stick framing, gable roofs, and siding. "It didn't stand a chance," he says. Looking at surviving 1920s Florida architecture, it's clear that unified construction, concrete walls, protected windows, and hip roofsare the way to design wind-resistant homes. Back on site, bob watches the pour, learns how the walls and window openings will be vibrated to...

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