Gmp050-3 goodman furnace 4 blinks cleaned flame sensor , new igniter, runs for 90 secs then shuts off?


The sequence of events for furnace operation is -

Fan purge for 30-45 seconds. During this time, a pressure switch is actuated by the running of the purge fan, proving the control board the purge fan is running.

After purge and purge prove, the hot surface ignition and or spark begins. After a few second delay, the gas valve will open. The control board then monitors for flame prove through another sensor located near the burners. If there is no flame within 3-5 seconds, the gas valve closes. It will repeat this process, usually 3 times, before it shuts the system down, which requires a power down of the system to reset.

I have seen trash get into the hose between the purge blower and the purge switch. But you could be having other problems.

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Every two years the Amana GUIC-070 furnace in my house starts acting up. Sometimes, when the thermostat "calls for heat", the burner will ignite and then go out within a few seconds. The ignition control module will try to start the furnace again, and the burner might stay lit for the normal duration. Over a period of a few months the situation degrades to the point where almost every time the furnace tries to start, the flame goes out within 5 seconds.

On this furnace, the problem is the flame sensor... it develops a thin coating of clear or whitish deposits that insulate the sensor from the flame, so the ignition control module doesn't receive the signal that the flame is actually lit. Without that signal, the control module shuts off the gas valve and then tries starting the furnace again. If 3 to 5 attempts don't succeed in lighting the flame, the control module will wait for one hour and then try again. That's an hour where the house has no heat, and if...

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Symptom – Burner lights off, but goes out quickly.

What is it? – This symptom is often caused by a dirty flame sensor that can be easily cleaned. Not all furnaces have a flame sensor, but if your furnace has one, it will be mounted close to the burner with the metal rod positioned in the flame. Flame sensors vary in size (2 to 4 inches) and shape (see examples below). They are powered by a single wire carrying a small amount of electricity (less than 10 DC microamps).

What is happening? – Over time, a coating can form on the metal rod of the flame sensor that is difficult to see. Because of this coating, electricity flow is restricted and the furnace control system “thinks” the burner has failed to light and shuts off the gas as a safety measure even though everything has worked as designed. Flame sensors rarely fail. Broken or cracked ceramic are signs that the flame sensor is defective.

The repair

As always, turn off all electrical power...
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Goodman Gas furnace

When troubleshooting, understand you are working with potentially lethal voltages and a highly flammable gas. If you do not have the ability to do these operations safely, do not attempt them.

Janitrol Model GMP 050,075,100 or 125.

These furnaces were installed from the late 80s to present. They are

80% efficient furnaces

and they


with metal pipe.

They are induced furnaces, meaning they use a fan to extract the burned gasses from the heat exchanger and into the vent. The video below gives sequence of operation of an 80% efficient furnace and the model used is a Janitrol GMP 075 model.

Sequence of operation of this furnace is similar to most 80% furnaces made after 1990.

1. On a call for heat (thermostat closes), a signal is sent to the IFC and sequencing begins.
2. The IFC electronically looks at the pressure switch.
A. If the pressure switch is open (power cannot pass through),...

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Here is a little more information:

1. I put the fan in "on" position. It comes on with no problem.
2. After a few minutes, I put the heat so that it will come on.
3. The burner ignites and the fan is still blowing.
4. After about 1-2 mins, the fan stops, but the furnace is still going (flame is still going).
5. When this occurred, I went and checked the light on the board. It was solid indicating no issues.
6. After a few more minutes, the limit switch will trip shutting down the flame, and the board blinks indicating the limit switch.

So, by having the fan on, wouldn't that bypass the lower limit switch (the one that comes on at 120)? And since the blower stops while the flame is still on (and board is showing normal), wouldn't that eliminate the upper limit switch?

So what else, besides control board, could it be? I'm assuming it is the control...

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3) Clean the Sensor

Once you have removed the sensor, gently rub the metal rod (and nothing else) with a very light grit sandpaper. Remember, you're not sanding down an auto body here, just ridding the sensor of any buildup. Then, use a clean paper towel to wipe clean any dust left behind by the sanding.

4) Replace the Sensor

Once you've cleaned the sensor, simply reconnect its wire (if you've taken it off), remount the sensor on the burner assembly using the 1/4" screw, replace the door(s) on the unit, and turn the power back on.

5) Check Your Results

If the unit takes a few extra seconds to start up, or the fan immediately kicks on and runs for a bit, this is normal. Shutting down the power to the unit can cause it to reset and run through a short series of checks before trying to fire again. Once this check is complete, the unit should again begin to operate normally, turning itself off and on by command of the thermostat. Make sure the...

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Lennox 28M97 Angled Flame Sensor For Mpga Cmpe Cmpb 20467102 ” title=”flame sensor amazon”>

In the picture you will see a 1/8 inch round rod in the flame, that is the flame sensor. You need a multi meter that measures micro amps which you will connect in series with the flame sensor. The sensor is usually located on left side but on some furnaces it may be on the right side.

How the flame sensor works is by a small AC electrical charge going through the sensor and it uses the flame to carry the electrical power to ground. Burner surface to flame sensor is 4:1 ratio thus causing the AC current to change to DC current. If no flame present, dirty flame sensor, bad flame characteristics similar to flame lifting off or carbonizing there will be low or no micro amp draw and the control board will shut the flames off. After 3 to 5 tries the control board will lock the furnace out for 3 hours, which can be reset by cycling power or thermostat.

All furnaces have...

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[Summary]Electronic Ignition Gas Furnace Problems & Troubleshooting Electronic Ignition Gas Furnace Problems & Troubleshooting Gas furnaces are a very popular form of heat for homes and businesses and occasionally a gas Furnace Not Blowing Air? A Furnace T


Electronic Ignition Gas Furnace Problems & Troubleshooting

Electronic Ignition Gas Furnace Problems & Troubleshooting Gas furnaces are a very popular form of heat for homes and businesses and occasionally a gas

Furnace Not Blowing Air? A Furnace Troubleshooting Guide

Why is my furnace not blowing air? This article is a do-it-yourself troubleshooting guide to a furnace that is running but is not blowing any air.

How to Troubleshoot a Goodman Home Furnace | eHow

Goodman Manufacturing home furnaces are made in a variety of options, including variable and multi-speed as well as high-efficiency and standard-efficiency...

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The Power-fin - How it works...

1. Heat exchanger

The heat exchanger allows system water to flow through specially

designed tubes for maximum heat transfer. The glass lined

headers and copper finned tubing are encased in a jacket that

contains the combustion process.

2. Heat exchanger access cover

The heat exchanger access cover is a stainless steel door which

allows access for service, maintenance, and removal of the heat

exchanger from inside the combustion chamber.

3. Blower

The blower pulls in air and gas through the venturi (see item 5)

and injects the fuel/air mixture into the burner, where they burn

inside the combustion chamber.

4. Gas valve

The gas valve allows the proper amount of gas to pass into the

burner for combustion. The gas valve on the Power-fin works

under a negative pressure so gas should only be pulled through the


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Описание: If you woke up to find that your gas furnace is not starting or it's starting intermittently (on and then off right away) then you know your home can get pretty cold pretty quickly. Before you call a heating or furnace repair company you may want to take a look at your furnace to see if you can fix it yourself. Modern gas furnaces have a "flame sensor" in them to detect if the gas has been lit or not. If this sensor gets dirty (and they almost always do over time) then your furnace will try to light, think that gas is flowing without a flame and then immediately shut itself off as a safety feature. The fix is pretty simple: you just need to clean or scratch up the flame sensor a little bit so that it's working properly. Other furnace and heat troubleshooting tips can be found here: For a...

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It really is typical this seasonal time of year to note that your furnace is switching on and off two or three times for very brief runs. Then subsequent to the three attempts, the furnace shuts down for about an hour or two. After this wait period, the furnace attempts to start-up again. So why is my furnace not staying on? Maybe or maybe not your flame sensor may perhaps be the problem. Do I have an unsatisfactory flame sensor? Maybe you have a dirty flame sensor. This is very common for furnaces which may have not had a optimization or regular maintenance in the previous Two to five years.

What exactly ought I do regarding a dirty flame sensor?

Get a service technician clean and check your flame sensor. It might require replacing or only a cleaning, depending upon the problem. Typically either one of these solutions will likely be a relatively cost effective repair. Cleaning and checking the flame sensor should really be a regular element of a yearly maintenance...

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Today’s units react to unsafe conditions in less than a second. This is accomplished through the use of “computerized control modules” and a flame sensing control system known as flame rectification.

The safety used in today’s furnaces that accomplishes flame rectification is the flame sensor. A flame sensor is nothing more than a stainless steel rod partially encased in porcelain. By itself, it does nothing. There are no moving parts, no switches.

When attached to a control module, the module sends out an A/C voltage to the sensor. This voltage is always present at the sensor. The reason voltage is always present is because the sensor is always looking for flame, even if there is no call for heat.

If it sensed flame without a call for heat (ie. – gas valve stuck open), the control would see this and make sure the blower and inducer turned on or stayed on to prevent the furnace from becoming a little Chernobyl (complete melt down) in the...

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Trying to be as thorough and concise as I can, zero experience with hvac.

I have a year 2002 Trane xv80 that is giving me the three blink code, which indicates a pressure switch issue. I disconnected both the low speed and high speed switches, blew into them, and they seem to be making the right kind of clicking noise as I blow or suck. Kind of a cluck-cluck noise.

When I power up the furnace, the main blower starts to circulate are thru the ducts. However the inducer motor is not kicking in after 30 or 45 seconds which by memory is when it should kick in, followed by the igniter. My theory is if the inducer will not spin, then the pressure switches sense inadequate draft and they will then not allow the igniter to ignite, which in turns means no gas will flow and burn, and thus no heat.

I have installed a new flame sensor only because I cleaned it last year and it seemed to solve the problem. However, it may have been a coincidence. But, at approx $12 it was...

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