Questions about: grounding - страница 3

The rod must be at least 8 feet in the ground, and should be below or flush with the ground level. If the electrode is above the ground, it has to be protected from physical damage. So if the rod is 8 feet in the ground, you'll simply have to protect
Neutral and ground should be bonded only in your main service panel. Sounds like, in your case, that's the one attached to your meter. Secondary panels should have separate neutral and ground bus bars
Generally, adding a ground wire is always better for electronic equipment. It helps surge suppressors do their job by providing a ground reference. It provides real chassis grounding which among other things gives a solid route for static electricity
I was changing a light bulb in a ceiling light fixture. I unscrewed the nut and removed the glass cover. When I was replacing the bulb I noticed that there was a copper wire loosely coiled around the center rod (threaded at the bottom
A grill gazebo is an outdoor structure designed to house an informal kitchen. It typically holds a barbeque grill and tables, and possibly also shelves or benches. Most models are constructed of aluminum, steel, and canvas
Most lamps have a two-prong plug. All the lamps in my house, even the ones with metal casings, have two-prong plugs. I don't think you have a safety problem
You didn't say what you're doing with the other side. It depends an awful lot on that. If the circuit breaker in the main panel is 20 amps or less, and the existing load is 120V (i
Up until 2011 the National Electrical Code allowed a "3 wire" method of connecting a sub-panel. This means you have the two "hot" wires and a neutral running to the sub-panel as opposed to the "4 wire" method where you add a separate equipment ground
I've got an LG Ductless 12000 BTU unit that does the most annoying thing. . It is wired into a semi-standard (one of the prongs is sideways) 15A or 20A (can't recall) GFCI outlet inside - and if the power goes out, or I bump the cord "the wrong way"