Hanging drywall: How to shim 1.5"?

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I'm working on framing a wall where a sliding glass door once sat. In retrospect, I believe I should have used 2x6 lumber to frame the wall, rather than 2x4. While one side sits perfectly flush with the existing wall, the other side (shown in the picture) sits about 1.5" back from the existing wall.

Can I screw 2x4s horizontally to the framing to "shim" the drywall into the correct position?

Also, these are several different things hanging on the existing wall (some sort of cement shingle, tar paper, foam board, etc) Do I need to remove all of these prior to hanging drywall, or should I leave them as extra insulation?

Here is an up close view so you can see the gap between the framing and the existing "wall":

Any advice is...

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Unlike other home remodeling trades like electrical work, hanging drywall is not a 100% exacting process. Fortunately, you can finesse some aspects of drywall hanging to your own advantage.

While creative usage of drywall compound and subsequent painting can cover up some flaws in installation, you'll make your job easier by hanging the drywall right in the first place.

Secrets, tips, hints, or hacks, whatever you like to call them, these are employed by veteran installers and can come as a savior to amateur DIY installers, who usually need a crutch with this near art-form.

Much of it is plain common sense (mark your stud positions), while others emphasize logic that might have escaped you in the heat of the installing moment.

1. Mark Position of Vertical Studs on Ceiling and Floor

How: Use a carpenter’s pencil to mark the on-center point of each vertical stud. Mark on the floor and mark once more as high as possible. If you can’t mark on the...

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Once you have completed the ceiling in your home, you need to hang a drywall. Start by gathering all your tools and keeping them handy, as this will help you work quickly and efficiently. Remember to have good lighting so that you will be able to clearly see what you're doing.

Step 1 - Locate the Studs

Check whether the studs are placed correctly or not. This can be done by using a straight edge. If any of the studs are not in line with the rest, they will need to be aligned before you can attach the wallboard. Shim at the face of a low stud to bring it in place with the rest. If there are high spots on the studs, use a wood plane to scrape away the excess.

Step 2 - Hanging the First Sheet

Hang the drywall with the bottom edge of the sheet resting on the floor. Place the sheet horizontally against the studs. The wall board has to be screwed into the studs. Use a drywall screw for this purpose. After attaching the first sheet, mark lines down the...

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How to hang & finish drywall:

This article describes tips and tricks that help follow the best practices when installing drywall in buildings. We describe the types of drywall and where each type should be used.

We discuss different approaches to hanging drywall, including the necessary framing and adhesion or fastening specifications.

We describe the types & uses of drywall tape, and we review the types and uses of different types of drywall joint compound or mud, including general purpose mud, lightweight mud, setting compounds, and special products such as spray-on texture mud compounds.

This article also discusses how to avoid cracks in drywall finishes, including installation of floating corners, control joints, corner beads, and drywall curves or arches. We explain the interior temperature and humidity...

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Install wall cabinets before you install base cabinets so you don’t have to work above the base cabinets. The open area of the floor allows you, your helper, and your step ladder clear access. These steps describe installing framed cabinets. Frameless cabinets are installed in much the same manner except when connecting adjoining cabinets. To join frameless cabinets, use wood screws that are just shorter than the thickness of the two cabinet sides.

Transfer stud locations from the wall to the inside of each cabinet before you lift it into place; and drill clearance holes for the mounting screws.

Clearance holes, which are the same diameter as the screw, ensure that the cabinet will be drawn tight to the wall by the head of the screw. Measure carefully and measure twice. Drill the holes in the upper and lower hanging rails of the cabinets (the two horizontal pieces of lumber along the top and bottom of the back of the cabinet).

Set the first wall cabinet on...

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Most of the handy devices for hanging things on our walls were designed for drywall, not plaster. Everything from how to find a stud in plaster walls to what type of fasteners your should use is different.

Everyone wants to decorate their walls, so learning how to hang things on plaster walls is important for every homeowner to learn. It’s important not just to make the decorating process simpler, but to also avoid costly damage.

What’s the Real Difference Between Plaster and Drywall?

There are a few things that make the two different, especially related to attaching things to your walls.

Drywall is usually 1/2” thick, compared to historic plaster, which can range from 3/4” to just over 1” thick. Plaster is much harder than drywall Plaster is more brittle than drywall Plaster has lath (wood, metal mesh, or rock lath) behind it that supports it, whereas drywall has nothing behind it

All these differences mean that the two require different fasteners and...

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Hello, hello, everyone! This morning, I try to make my way to Atlanta for Haven Conference, YAY!! I say “try” because I’m flying standby…and last time I checked, the flights were looking pretty full already. Keep your fingers crossed for me and hope that a seat opens up!

But, last time you saw me, I had promised a tutorial on how to hang kitchen cabinets. So here it is, for your viewing pleasure!

Tip: It’s easier to hang your upper cabinets before installing your lower cabinets. That way you won’t have to be leaning over the base cabinets while trying to hold a heavy, bulky cabinet level on the wall above your head. You’ll also avoid scratching or damaging the lower cabinets while you awkwardly lean over them.

Another tip: This is a two-person job. Don’t be a hero.

Step 1: Determine how high you want your cabinets to be. Add together the height of your lower cabinets+the thickness of your counter+the height of your backsplash. Standard lower...

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Drywall surrounds us and for good reasons. It is an inexpensive wall covering that goes up quickly. It is neutral and can be covered with paint, wall paper or wood paneling easily. Other benefits include some sound proofing and insulation value.

Many people call drywall ‘sheetrock,’ which is actually the registered trademark of the United States Gypsum Company.

Tools

Part of the beauty of drywall is that it can be installed with a few common and inexpensive hand tools. These include a measuring tape, chalk line, utility knife, a selection of broad knifes, inside corner tool, spackle tray, key hole saw, sponge, Surform Tool, sanding pole, tin snips and drill. Additional, but not necessary tools include spiral saw, screw gun, 4-foot T-square, drywall saw, power pole sander, stilts (for ceiling work), panel lifter and power mixer.

In new construction, dry wall is hung directly on the wall studs. In remodeling, drywall can be hung over any...

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Strait-Flex's Drywall Shims, can be used for floating butt-joints, framing irregularities, hanging door jambs and cabinets, and shimming counter tops, pre-fabricated shower stalls and windows. Shims can be attached with screws or nails to framing members of each side of a butt-joint to allow a greater inset at the drywall joint. Easy dispensing carton. Available in 36" and 45" lengths.


Floating butt-joints and framing irregularities.
Shims save time by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints.
Other uses include door jambs, cabinets, counter tops, pre-fabricated shower stalls, and windows.
Easy dispensing carton.
100 shims per case.
...
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Although many people leave everything up to the contractor when it comes to home renovations, things like building walls are actually surprisingly easy. Drywall construction is one of the fastest methods to flesh out your already-framed home or complete a brand new renovation. Here are some tips on how to hang drywall.

Methods

Remember that there are many ways to hang drywall. While you can definitely go the traditional route and use drywall nails, it's easier to use screws, especially on ceilings.

No matter which method you follow, you'll probably need the following tools: drywall, screws, a tape measure, a pencil, an electric drill, a dimpler drill bit, a circle cutter or keyhole saw and a razor knife. If you're working on ceilings or don't have much help, you may also want a drywall lift or jack.

Planning

One common part of all drywall hanging jobs is the initial planning stage. You'll need to use your tape measure and pencil to calculate...

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My building has something called "gyproc lath" plaster walls. Instead of wood lath, it has what might be described as primitive drywall nailed to the studs, and the basecoat and gauging coat plaster were then applied to that "drywall".

The problem is that the studs in the walls aren't always straight. Sometimes they're curved, twisted, and/or bending in different directions. And, on top of that, the plaster applied to that drywall varies in thickness. So, when I have to repair a hole in that plaster wall with drywall, I often have to come up with creative ways to do it.

If it's a bigger size hole, I just cut out the hole to the closest offsetting studs and fasten pieces of spruce 2X2 to those with 3 inch drywall screws to provide new surfaces to fasten the drywall patch to. Then I just build up the whole area with base coat plaster and then top coat with joint compound to bring the repair flush with the surrounding wall. I'll cut the paint off the plaster around...

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When hanging drywall always work from the top to the bottom. And always run the drywall sheets perpendicular to the framing.

Hang drywall on ceilings before walls, so the sheets on the walls can help support the corners of the ceiling sheets.

Mark joist locations on top plates of the walls so the joists are easier to find when fastening ceiling sheets.

Then mark the stud locations of walls on the ceiling sheets and on the floors so they're easier to find when fastening the wall sheets.

Nails vs. Screws

Building codes have very strict regulations about how many fasteners need to be used to attach drywall.

Nails are the easiest to use for do-it-yourselfers who are not comfortable with a screw gun. For 1/2" drywall, use 1-1/4" ring shank nails. This type of nail holds better into wood framing and prevents "popping" later on.

Use a drywall hammer to set the nails. It has a rounded head that sets the nails just a little below the...

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Sysiphus Syziggy: Make sure to team up with a steroid freak who just moved here from out of state.
Then, make sure you cut and carry, so he can stand there with a screw gun and say, "That's not how we do it in Missouri"
every ten minutes. After 7 days of this, just quietly roll up your tools and leave the job.
Make sure to call your superintendent and let him know you just can't work with the dude.

Larry Tolliver: you hang your top sheet first to get a tight fit to your ceiling sheet, what I want to know is why do I see these so called pros using a recip saw to cut drywall when there is a tool called a drywall cutout tool, router, made for that

Moises Nunez: good.

jaya tissa: Can it reduce sound waves penetrating through common shared walls?

jaya tissa: Can it reduce sound waves penetrating from common shared walls?

Luke brown: you suck ass

Jennifer Venne-Redlund: Clips are a waste of time because if the house settles eventually,...

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Although I still have two walls to insulate (those needing R19), I decided to go ahead and start hanging the drywall. Since I've never done this before, I thought I'd enlist the help of someone who has some experience- my brother-in-law, Gino.

Gino has finished two basements on his own, and graciously offered to show up at 8:00 a.m. on a Saturday to help me get started. After a morning coffee and some muffins, we were ready to go!

Getting started hanging drywall

We decided to start in the back, right corner of the basement and work our way around clockwise. (just like I did with the framing- see "Starting construction- Hammer Time".) This meant that we had a series of short walls, two doors, ductwork, and pipes to work around right off the bat.

Since I had to have the drywall cut to get it in the basement (See Drywall, insulation ...

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The studs in your wall must be flush to hang drywall evenly. Uneven studs will result in uneven walls. You can fix this situation without reconstructing your framing by simply adding to it or taking away from it. Adding to or taking away from framing is a time-saving solution compared with completely removing all uneven wall studs. This job can be completed with basic hand tools and, since there will be no construction, you do not need a carpenter.

Hold the level across the studs beginning at the left or right side of the wall. Since studs are typically 16 inches apart, your 48-inch level will cover three studs at a time. The level will show you which stud or studs are out of line or not flush. Some of your studs may stick out too far, and some of them may not be out far enough.

Nail shims to the stud to raise surfaces that are too low. A shim is a thin piece of tapered wood that helps to fill voids. Nail the shim to the 2-inch side of the stud, the narrower end...

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Measure the width of your door way divide by 2 for each door. Measure the height of your doorway. I should of added that when building your frames make sure that the wall to the left and right of the doorway are wide enough that the doors won't overhang the wall when open. So in my case, the wall doorway is 30" wide and the wall next to the doorway is 16" wide. I built the doors using 1"x4" boards, mending plates and 2"x4"s. I cut all the 1"x4" boards to the height of my doorway plus 4". I then used bar clamps and mending plates to place the boards together. Do your best at keeping them straight. After that I then cut 2"x4" boards and placed them on the top and bottom of the door, on the back side. I made the mistake of not measuring how far from the edge I placed the 2"x4" boards so they were inconsistent on all the doors. Keeping this consistent would of helped A LOT when inserting the screw eye hooks and wheels. You want the height of the whole door (from bottom of wheels to top...

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