Heater in Attic Not Blowing Hot Air

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During the colder seasons, all kinds of heat-generating devices become the most sought after commodities. Ovens, radiators, fans are often talked about, both in professional and private conversations.

Master electric blow heaters can be used both at home and at more demanding places, such as construction sites or warehouses. They are perfect for heating your garage from time to time, as well as to dry a fresh building or regularly heat chilly warehouses or offices. Due to their robust and durable structure, they can be used even in the most extreme conditions. They don't use oxygen, so they can also be used in closed areas. Silent operation, no exhaust fumes or odors and 100% efficiency are just a few of the advantages of these devices. Mobility is also one of their chief assets. The heater can easily be carried anywhere owing to its convenient handles and low weight.

The B 18 EPR model is also a clever solution, as a flexible hot air distribution tube can be connected to...

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(Wow. Look at all those "related questions" over there. I count 4 or 5.)

How about a little background?

Have a look at this:

(With thanks to the YouTube channel "Automotive Basics".)

Now, at about 2:10 in the video (after they get finished introducing the thermostat), they talk about what a car heater is, and how it works. Basically, it's a mini-radiator - called a "heater core" - that is hooked up to the engine coolant system and employs a cutoff valve to either block or allow hot coolant from the engine to flow into it. There is a fan that sits right next to the heater core, and that is what blows the heated air from the core into the car.

So if your heater is blowing cold air it's because:

1. There's no hot coolant flowing into the heater core.

2. There is coolant flowing into the heater core, but it isn't hot.

#1 could be a blocked or kinked or leaking "bypass hose" (if it's leaking, you're losing coolant, and that is a...

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Our contractor installed a ridge vent on our roof. We were still getting significant heat build up in the attic, so he then installed a solar roof fan that moves 500 CFM (cubic feet per minute). I noticed you said that these two systems should not be combined. Should we remove the solar vent fan? -Ron

Hi Ron,

Attics are vented using the natural circulation that occurs when hot air rises. Vents in the soffit beneath the eaves at the bottom of the attic draw in cool outside air while gable or ridge vents at the peak of the attic allow heated air to exit. In hot climates, a power vent fan is often mounted behind a gable vent or cut into the roof near the peak to assist this process by forcibly expelling additional hot air from the attic.

Combining an attic power vent fan with a ridge vent is usually not recommended because:

It could reverse the natural flow of hot air out the ridge vent. If air is drawn in through the ridge vent while it’s raining, it might...
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There are a lot of different ways a car heater can fail, but the problem you’re describing is usually caused by one of two basic problems. Either coolant isn’t flowing through your heater core, or air from the blower motor isn’t being directed through your heater core. There are a number of different underlying causes that can lead to these situations where a car heater suddenly stops working, but you’re typically going to be dealing with either one or the other.

Quick Crash Course in Car Heater Operation

First off, everything here applies to vehicles with water cooled engines. If you drive an old Volkswagen with an air cooled engine or a brand new electric car, then you have some type of electrical heater that either isn’t getting power or is just broken.

Most cars on the road still have water-cooled engines, though, and their heating systems all work on the same basic principle. Hot coolant from the engine passes through a heater core, which looks and...

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Car is a 98 1.8t. A bit history on the heater; it was working absolutely fine early this year in spring, used to blow real hot air at high temp settings.

But now, the heater is blowing only luke warm air even at the highest ‘HI’ setting on the dial. Engine temperature is coming up properly and always sits at the middle. I just came back from a 1 hr drive, but still it blows luke warm air.

I’ve recently flushed the antifreeze with genuine audi coolant and really don’t think it's a clogged heater core because it was fine till some 7 months ago. Can this be caused by a temperature sensor reading bit off? I am not sure how the system does the calculation or how many sensors are used for it. I have changed the IAT(Bosch) and ECT(Genuine Audi) sensors couple of months ago. I did the on board diagnostic for the HVAC and below are the values I got; Can somebody confirm whether these sensors values are looking normal or not?

1 System malfunction - displayed as a...

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TIME: 5.05.2012
author: asexccur



No air blowing out of the vents in my house! Is my HVAC unit hosed.

My heat pump / air conditioning unit (HVAC?) is not blowing in my house.. We went into the attic, installed the new part in 5.


Common HVAC Problems, Heat pump blowing cold air, Not heating.

The heat pump really is blowing cold air. 2. The customer just thinks it is blowing cold air.. It is still warmer than the house so it is still putting heat into the house.


Home Tips : Heat Pump Troubleshooting & Repairs

(Note that a heat pump may go into a defrost mode. temporarily output cold air. Also be aware that the heat pump will have to work. by thermal expansion or by air blowing.


HVAC System blowing cool air...? - Yahoo! Answers

... heat pump is having issues.. This past winter when the heat was on there would be cool (Not cold) air blowing. hot air into the house, not. the heat pump to work.

...
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Brigadier General


Drives: 128i convertible

Join Date: Apr 2009

Location: Lexington, SC

Quote:

What you say may be true for your car. But on my e88, if I put the top down in cool weather, I get nice warm air out of the vents on the dash. It has a special mode for top down. I haven't really paid that much attention to how it works with the top up since it heats up pretty quickly - a lot quicker than my 2006 Suzuki SUV.

If mine was under warranty and I didn't like the way it was working I'd take it in. We have pretty complex cars and with complexity comes opportunities for issues. My wife is very quick to complain about a lack of heat in the winter, however, and also drives a e88 without complaint. So I think our heaters work pretty well.

I leave my temp about 72 degrees summer and winter. Occasionally I turn it up or down a few degrees to cause the system to blow out different...

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Hi Gents,

I have a 320i 2.2 and the coolant tank cracked right after I bought the car and went for a 150 miles trip. AA brought me back. I put a genuine new expansion tank in and bled the system but I still have no hot air inside the car. The two pipes coming from/to the heater valve are not hot at all. Only warmish. As soon as I squeeze the top pipe (that goes into the rad) I will have warm air inside (not hot) but a minute later it blows cold again. The third pipe which goes to the expansion tank from the heater matrix is cold.
The coolant circulation is fine, it is continuous, on the small hole in the tank the coolant is pissing. The coolant temperature is 85-90 Celsius Degree (checking in the hidden menu) and never overheats.
I changed the heater valve first but the problem is still there. Is it possible that I still have an airlock in the heater matrix? Or is it something else like a head-gasket problem.
Thanks for any...

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According to the United States Energy Information Administration's Residential Energy Consumption Survey (or RECS), the average American single family residence expends approximately 48% of its total energy costs on heating and cooling of the home. While this is down from an estimated 57% of total electricity usage in the early 1990s, thanks to better insulation and more energy efficient HVAC systems, it is still a substantial use of energy, and thus a major part of the annual expenses a family incurs simply by living their lives.

Cooled air during the summer and warmed air during the winter are not mere luxuries; it is essential for both comfort and for safety that you maintain temperate living conditions inside your home. That means the use of a central heating and cooling system whenever possible, as these systems are ultimately the most efficient and cost effective way to heat your home during the winter and cool it down in the summer.

Installing a central heating...

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Originally Posted by

JDM_SXE-10

When issues occur that warrant replacement of parts based on DTBs, do dealerships fix them free of charge even if the vehicles are out of warranty?

Only recalls and service campaigns carryover past warranty expiration without question. However, a case can be made to MBUSA by way of the dealership with service management support if the DTB specifically mentions a revised part number to correct malfunction caused by defect.

This DTB does not mention a revised valve but MBUSA EPC (electronic Parts Catalog) shows the recommended part A2118320084 was replaced by A2118320584. Therefore, it is safe to assume the new valve is somehow improved. On this basis, you can request a no cost goodwill repair referencing the DTB, new part number, and depending how far past warranty expiration you are dealership cooperation in presenting your request to...

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If you want to improve the energy performance of an older house, one of the first steps is to plug your attic air leaks. Although many GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com articles address aspects of attic air sealing, no single article provides an overview of the topic. This article is an attempt to provide that missing overview.

I’ll try to explain how you can seal air leaks in a conventional vented, unconditioned attic. If your house has cathedral ceilings — that is, insulated sloped roof assemblies — the air sealing tips in this article don’t apply to your house.

There are four basic steps to sealing attic air leaks:

Inspecting your attic; Patching the big holes; Sealing the cracks and small holes; and Weatherstripping the access hatch.

Once this air sealing work is done, you may want to add more insulation to your attic floor. If you want to add insulation, remember that air leaks have to be sealed first.

Inspecting your attic

The easiest way to find...

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Is an attic vent fan beneficial - is the cost of operation far more than offset by savings in A/C operation cost? Are there other pros or cons? The motor on the vent fan failed recently and I am trying to decide if I should put in a new motor or just leave the opening as a passive vent.

I have a 2-story house in Raleigh, NC, with with A/C ducts and a gas furnace in the attic. There are two passive gable end vents, one on each end of the house. The vent fan is in the roof and has a thermostat control. I have a whole-house fan in the ceiling and a pull-down stair access to the attic. I keep these covered and insulated.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this issue.

If the fan is going to siphon conditioned air from the pull down and ceiling fan, it is a waste of money in my opinion. If there is sufficient ventilation from soffet vents etc, and the attic is sealed pretty good from the conditioned areas the vent fan isn't a bad idea. Remember that your ducts and...
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Recently moved into home in Eastern MA(Zone 5?) and have a 2 story 3K sqft home. There are 3 gas furnaces and AC units. One of the furnaces is in the attic. The roof is a "T" shaped Gable roof. The "top" of the T has soffit vents and a ridge vent. The "stem" of the T has soffit vents and *no* vent at the top. The furnace is located in the stem. The top of the stem roof has a flat roof top. What's concerning is that there is no venting of the attic area where the furnace is. The furnace itself has a vent stack; label reads "American Standard Freedom 80 Single Stage". I don't see an intake pipe so I'm assuming it's not a sealed burner. Because it's not a sealed burner and I can't foam the underside of my roof deck, creating a "conditioned space", and I need to vent the stem attic. Roofer thinks a passive vent or a (side)gable vent is enough. I think the furnace is creating more heat than a passive vent can handle. What options do I have to vent this attic properly?
Top Attic...
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