How can I build up the hardibacker if it doesn't come flush with the tub


In the last three posts of this series I’ve shared the steps we took to prepare our wood subfloor for HardieBacker. You’re going to cross the finish line today.

By the end of this tutorial you’ll know

the proper thin set consistency to set the HardieBacker into what kind of screws to use for securing HardieBacker how to use alkali resistant joint tape between HardieBacker seams and hopefully laugh a few times along the way

So let’s get to it.

How to Mix Thinset-It’s Like Making Pancakes!

Before the HardieBacker can be attached to the floor with screws you’ll need to add a supporting bed of modified thinset.

What should the thinset consistency look like? This was a BIG question I had before doing a few tile floor installations. Thinset should be mixed with water until it barely stays on a vertical margin trowel.

You’ll need a few supplies to mix up the thinset

one 5 gallon bucket water margin trowel scrap piece of wood or...
0 0

Hello All,

I'm remodeling a master bathroom (my own) and was advised to use Hardibacker cementatious backer board for the walls in the shower area, but to switch to green board for the remainder of the walls and ceiling. Looking over the Hardibacker web site regarding installation, I see nothing that addresses my concerns. One, installation of hardibacker requires use of a thin set and alkali resistant fiberglass tape. OK. Fine. If i'm tiling over these surfaces that's no problem. However, how do I prepare the thin set covered joints and screw heads (which are driven only flush with backer board as James Hardie advices) for primer and paint??? The surface of the Hardibacker looks too "coarse" for a smooth application of paint. Two, where gypsum wallboard meets Hardibacker, how does one address the resulting joint? Joint compound or thinset?? Lastly, would I save myself headaches by applying Hardiebacker for the entire job. The space is minimal, 8 ft ceilings and a 4 ft by...

0 0
0 0

Hey Nmalczewsky I can only imagine your state of shock when you discovered a window hiding behind your shower enclosure. I am always amazed what hides behind a little bit of sheetrock.

I talked with SteelToes about your new window and there are a few things to look at before you start your work. Most importantly, can you find a match for your existing siding? If you are looking at replacing your window with a smaller one the hole will have to be patched and it can be a real pain trying to match weathered sheathing. (this may be why a previous owner kept the window)

If you decide to forge on with your retrofit you will want to frame the window as high as possible to keep unnecessary moisture away from the frame. Ensure that you install a large enough header to satisfy local code requirements. leave yourself a 1/2" gap on the sides and 1/2-3/4" gap on the top. If the glass is fitted with silicone then fill these exterior gaps with silicone caulking. If they are bonded...

0 0

@ earl.

#1....your homes structure first must meet deflection for the specific tile's rating. and that is not achieved nor improved by using any brand cement board, thinset or not.

The majority of the tile floors i see fail have a cement board and thinset approach on top of a un-approved mix of joist and poor subflooring..

There is no structural benefit from Cement board under your tile it is simply used to raise a floor elevation and give a bonding surface for the thinset/tile so it matters not if its 1/4 or 1/2" cbu.

You first need to meet deflection with structural materials and MATH. That happens with lumber and means exp1 plywood of 1/2' or better at each layer ( no 3/8' or 15/32" etc.) installed properly with, fastener placement/type, cross blocking, grain direction, lapping joints properly, glue, and with uncoupling in mind. FIRST.

How you arrived at 1-1/8" is also of question/concern unless it is 2 layers exp1 @ 5/8" +1/2" installed...

0 0

I've seen several almost identical posts regarding tile recently, so I thought I'd write up a quick summary and try to avoid saying the same thing over and over.

In my experience doing floors and working with professional tile installers and contractors, tile floors are treated like consumables. Slap it down, and when it starts to crack, well I guess we wanted a new style anyway, right? It's easy to make a tile floor last 5 or 10 years. But if you follow all of these instructions to the letter, a tile floor can last 50 years or longer. I don't believe in treating flooring like a paint color.

So there's porcelain, ceramic, glass, and [natural] stone. Stone is the most fragile. These all come in many different sizes, and keep getting bigger as technology gets better. Here's a good graph illustrating flexural strength of different types of tile.

Joists. A proper tile subfloor starts at the joists. Your joist spacing (16", 19.2", 24", they were drunk"),...

0 0

One of the most asked questions by do-it-yourselfer’s is whether they should use caulk or grout in the corners. Industry standards state that a flexible material be used at all changes of plane. But! – if you ask a hundred different professionals you will more than likely receive fifty of each answer. While there are pros and cons of each, I am in the camp that uses caulk. That being the case, I will discuss using grout first. I’m backwards like that.

Using Grout at Changes of Plane

While the phrase “changes of plane” may sound a bit uppity or technical – it’s not. It simply describes the corner or edge of any surface that changes direction such as a corner, a wall to a floor, or a wall to the tub edge. Many professionals simply grout that corner as they do any other space between the tiles. There are a couple of things that must be taken into consideration before choosing this method.

Your walls and the framing of your shower must be absolutely rock solid. I do...
0 0

Choosing a home siding can be a daunting process. It's a whole new arena to become familiar with and it's not uncommon to have questions.

Here we've compiled homeowners' most frequently asked questions.

Where can I buy HardiePlank® lap siding, HardiePanel® vertical siding, HardieTrim® boards or HardieShingle® siding?
Since you will be working with a contractor or builder to install James Hardie® products, the individual or company you hire for the job will purchase the necessary materials for you. You can also call customer service at 1-888-JHARDIE for your closest sales representative.

How much does HardiePlank lap siding cost?
Your contractor will give you an estimate that includes labor and materials, based on your specific project. This will give you the best idea of how much siding will cost for you. You can also call customer service at 1-888-JHARDIE for your closest sales representative.

How do your prices compare to...

0 0

Which Shower Tile Backer board is best?

I often get questions on what sort of tile backer board to use for showers and tub surrounds. When it comes to installing tile backer board the easiest to install is usually the worst or most expensive. The types that are the most difficult to install tend to work fine and are fairly economical.

So which tile backer board should you use in your bathroom?

I’m going to break them down by category and cover the finer points of each. We’ll start with


Sheetrock in a wet area is a major no-no. It usually works fine for a kitchen backsplash or fireplace but as a shower tile backer board, it’s a bad idea and against code. This also goes for moisture resistant drywall also known as green board. It’s my understanding that green board isn’t approved for residential wet areas anymore.

If sheetrock (drywall) gets wet it expands and swells and will ruin any tile that you’ve installed on it....

0 0

3 out of 5 leaves

The saying “If it’s yellow, let it mellow; if it’s brown, flush it down” is a well meaning, but controversial guide to preventing unnecessary toilet flushes. Sending less water down the toilet (so to speak) saves money and the environment. But how much could it really save, and is it worth it?

The Good

Better for the Earth – water conservation and less volume through our sewage treatment plants Saves Money – water can be quite expensive in drier parts of the country Feels good – not flushing the yellow is a tangible reminder each day that you are doing your part to conserve our natural resources!

The Bad

Unpleasant odor – a toilet bowl full of urine can get stinky Toilet requires cleaning more often – scum build-up seems to occur faster when the toilet is not flushed as often Social stigma – this is one of those things you really can only do at home, when you don’t have company

My Experience

Our Flush Savings Tracker (Recreation...

0 0

Your stomach might just be upset because you suddenly stopped eating normal when you felt just a little nausea (are you nervouse or stressed out about your new love sitchuation?). Some times when people get really hungry they can start to feel nauseous, which may seem silly because it seems like it defeats the purpus, because then you feel to sick to eat. And with lack of food your stomach can hurt, your stomach can also hurt when you have gone too long with out eating and then you eat. I say it's kindda like your stomach being in "shock" from the food being in it.

If I were you I would keep trying to eat soft foods every few hours then slowly add in normal food here and there after a day or two. I think your stomach is just a little out of whack right now and you should try and get it on a regular eating schedule and then I think you'll start to feel better. Since you can eat and I'm guessing you can still drink stuff (?) your not in any danger.

Don't worry...

0 0
Oh Oh Doug. Now you have done it.

The story goes like this.

In the TCNA and TTMAC Specifications it mentions you need to follow the installation instructions of the product supplier. In Schluter's instructions it allows drywall. So, if you follow the TCNA and TTMAC recommendations about following product manufactures recommendations you get around this - so they say.

I went to my building department in North Vancouver and asked. I was told no.

I called Schluter and asked and they said Yes.

There is no inspection for this so really you will not get caught.

Other than Ardex I have found no other company recommending drywall. I asked my Mapei rep what thinset he recommends for installing Kerdi over drywall in a shower and he said none.

Ardex hooks you up if you want to go this route - but why would you?

There is more to the puzzle since if the drywall has been tapped with drywall compound then you need to prime. But they won't tell you...

0 0

Nothing that's forced can ever be right
If it doesn't come naturally, leave it
That's what she said as she turned out the light
And we bent our backs as slaves of the night
Then she lowered her guard and showed me the scars
She got from trying to fight
Saying oh, you'd better believe it.

Well I'm up to my neck in the crumbling wreckage
Of all that I wanted from life
When I looked for respect all I got was neglect
Though I swallowed the lign as a sign of the times
But dealing a jack from the back of the pack
They said-"You lose again"
Oh, I said, who needs it?

Well don't get me wrong now I tried to get on
With the jokers that got in my way
And I put on a smile and I tried all the while to be straight
But they just wanted more all the time and I'm sure
That you know what I mean when I say
That I'm sick of the touch and there's only so much you can take.

Well nothing that's real...

0 0
0 0
0 0

We have a very narrow bench in the shower about 16" high, but only 8" deep. It is not enough to sit on, but enough to lift and shave your legs. People like that. For a shower I had in another house I had them use a piece of Granite on the top of the bench to match the granite on the vanity.

For my current shower room, on the shower floor, I used Epoxy grout (Lacticrete) which doesn't need to be sealed, but it does cost more money, and we had to buy more than one container to cover a 31"x33" floor. but then again, we used a pebble floor so that takes a lot more grout than normal since it has a lot of gaps to fill.

I love tiled showers over plastic walls (we have 12"x24" tiles installed horizontally). The entire bathroom from wall to ceiling is tiled with the same tile.

I agree - a well built shower should not leak. Mine is also on the second floor. It is very important that the shower pan is made correctly. You can also get a prefab shower pan which can then be...

0 0

I really do not understand why you have your panties in such a wad.

Cement board is NOT greenboard.
Are you confusing the two?
Unless you apply Keens cement or a setting joint compound to the cement board you have not really gained anything.

Ceramic tile is waterproof (not damaged by water) and depending on grade and type may be impervious to water penetration. The grout joints are not impervious to water penetration though, and whatever the tile is mounted on needs to be able to resist damage from the water that gets through the grout lines.

Greenboard is wax coated gypsum wallboard (more generically know as water resistant gypsum wallboard ). It is used in low quality work as a tile backer. Since tile is not waterproof and the wax coating is not adequate, tile walls with greenboard as a substrate have a history of failure after 5-8 years.

Cement board (Wonderboard, Durock, etc.) is fiberglass reinforced Portland cement made into boards. It is...

0 0