How can I drill a 2“ deep hole, 1/16” in diameter?


Thanks for contacting me Daniel.

Boring holes on materials, especially strategic holes like the 2mm - 6mm, require tenacity as well as deep understanding of the task.

You must consider the Material in question, the Bit type and the Drill. Let’s say the material in question is “wood”, a Wood Cutting Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit and a good drill like the MATIKA XPH012 18V would do this without stress. Just identify the point to drill, Stand and hold the drill firmly, Place the drill straight, and Drill. Simple.

But if the material in question is concrete or metal. The game is entirely different.

Firstly, you MUST identify the spot to drill and make a minor impact on it. This is a little but great trick to keeps the drill from wondering off during drill. For these tough material tasks, you would be needing an Iron Cutting Hole Saw Twist Drill Bit. This is used for cutting ferrous and nonferrous metal. It has a very high precision, it is smooth & steady,...

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Danny Lipford: The hole saw is the perfect tool for drilling those large diameter holes, like this doorknob hole.

Joe Truini: That’s right, Danny. The problem with most hole saws, though, is that they dull really quickly. Here’s a great way to cut holes much quicker and cleaner.

Danny Lipford: Now this is a good one, you need to watch this.

Joe Truini: The first step is to use the hole saw to cut just about an eighth-inch deep or so. Then switch to a drill with a quarter-inch diameter bit, and drill around the perimeter of the hole. These holes create spaces for clearing out the wood chips, which keeps the hole saw cooler and cutting faster. Then switch to the hole saw, and finish drilling through the rest of the door.

Another benefit of the relief holes is that they help prevent binding, which can really twist your wrist.

Danny Lipford: Now this could be real helpful if you’re drilling in a hardwood door, or a plastic laminate countertop that may...

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I am trying to reinforce a custom door I am building. Because it's made only of two layers of MDF, it is not as rigid as I want it to be and shows signs of bowing. Since it's going to be a soundproof door, any curvature in the door will be detrimental to a tight seal around the stop.

The only low-profile solution to reinforcing the door that I have found is a 1/8"x1 1/2"x6' length of steel that I found at Menard's. It is very ridgid and would be perfect for attaching along the inside edge of my door which is also 1 1/2" thick. The problem is that I need to drill a 1"-diameter hole through it for the latch assembly, but I have no idea how I am going to do that with the cordless power drills that I have.

Answers 3

Step One

Drill a small pilot hole using a small diameter (1/8") Twist drill bit.

Step Two

Drill the 1" hole using a Hole Saw bit.

March 21, 2013 00:19 AM

From your description it sounds like you intend...

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I’ve seen this issue with my X-Carve as well, holes are positioned properly, but the size is always just a little off. I spoke to a friend of mine who has been a machinist/tool and die maker for nearly 35 years regarding this issue, he thinks the machine may not be rigid enough to hold that tolerance. He said that there are 3 ways to fix it:

Adjust your tool paths with regards to your end mill’s cutting behavior, be well aware that you may have issues running future jobs as you will have to test cut and adjust paths each time. Get an end mill/cutter/high speed drill that’s the correct diameter and drill it. Use a small end mill to create a guide hole, then use the proper sized drills in a drill press to drill thru.

I generally use option 3, as the price of a high speed carbide drill set is a bit out of my price range compared to regular drill bit...

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This is a fun thread. Lots of good ideas.

I just tried an experiment, never having done this before.

JPMacG, the original poster stated that he has a lathe and a drill press, so only using those tools I managed to put a hole on center of a 1 1/4 inch round bar, by making a drill bushing out of the same barstock.

I cut off a piece of the bar stock, then went to the lathe.

Then to the drill press. I don't have a drill press vice so I grabbed my grinder vise for this demo. I didn't drill this hole through because I didn't want to drill into my vice, but you get the idea.

If your vice jaws aren't tall enough to accommodate this setup, a piece of flat bar on each side and a c-clamp should work to support everything in the vice.


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