How Can I move an old galvanized pipe

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Refrigerator water supply on an old galvanized pipe

So my house was built in 1914, with some remodeling since then, probably the last around 1936. Where I live, they were still using galvanized pipe back then. I have a newish refrigerator that has a water supply for ice, cold water, etc. I've seen these kits at the local HW store that have a tap that actually punches a hole in the pipe to make a T connection for the fridge. Am I foolish to use one of these things on my old pipes or am I just inviting trouble?

An alternative might be to use a stub I found under the house and put an actual screw-on fitting, but I think trying to get that joint apart might be a bigger problem.

Galvanized piping begins to deteriorate after time. I'm surprised you haven't had to replace some already. My house was built in 52' and I have had to replace most of it already. It begins to crack apart.

The T connect kit should be ok depending on how deteriorated the pipe is...

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In this video we’ll be cutting out a rotted waste nipple and remove old galvanized pipe.

So you reach under the kitchen sink to grab some paper towels or some dish soap and everything is soaking wet. You open up the doors to take a closer look and you notice a rust stain running down from where the waste pipe exits the cabinet.

Upon further investigation, you realize that the bottom of that nipple is all rotted out and has probably been leaking for some time. Welcome to my world guys!

You think to yourself “all I have to do is get under the sink with my trusty pipe wrench, remove and replace the offending piece of pipe, right?” Not so fast my friends…the pipe may be rotten where it connects to the “P” trap but inside the wall it’s fully intact so there is no way that piece is going to screw out. If you don’t believe me I’ll hang out a bit and wait for you to prove me wrong….

How’d it go?

I know. The reason it rotted out under the cabinet is...

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Most homes built in the 1960's or earlier were built using galvanized steel pipe for the plumbing. It was a popular building material, because it was made to last a long time. Some areas, however, have water that is very acidic, and so is considered hard water. This type of water can eventually damage galvanized steel pipe. Because of this, if a galvanized steel pipe wears out or becomes corroded due to hard water, it’s best to replace it using polyvinyl chloride, or PVC piping.

Step 1 – Preparation

Be safety conscious and put on eye protection goggles and work gloves to protect your hands. Get all your tools and supplies together and close to you, and then move to Step 2.

Step 2 – Turn off All Water Sources

Before you start, make sure to turn off the water source, so you won’t have a mess on your hands when you replace the old pipe. Look for the shut-off valve on the water main. It usually looks like a little wheel. Make sure you check to see if...

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Plumbers don't recommend galvanized steel pipes for residential water or drain lines because they corrode from the inside. The corrosion produces deposits on the inside of the pipe that grow and eventually block water flow which, in a drain, means sluggish draining. You could disassemble the drain pipes back to the corroded one by unscrewing them from each other, but the fact that the threads are usually locked together makes that procedure impractical. In practice, it's easier to simply cut the damaged pipe and unscrew both ends from the fittings.

Block the drain so you don't have to deal with water and debris flowing through the pipe while you're working on it. If the drain is hooked up to a sink, turn off the shutoff valves for the faucet so no one will inadvertently turn on the faucet while the drain is disconnected.

Insert a metal-cutting blade onto a reciprocating saw, and make a straight cut through the drain pipe near its center. After completing the cut, make...

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Start with one of the pipes you are connecting together. I usually start with the female half of the union. The half that has the nut on it. Slide the nut over the pipe first so you don't forget it. Use pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads of the pipe. Screw on the female half of the union and tighten it with two pipe wrenches, holding the pipe with one of them. Put the other half of the union on the second piece of pipe you are connecting and tighten it. Now bring the two halves of the union together and screw on the union nut. Do not put any pipe dope or tape on the union itself. It is a dry fit. Tighten the nut while holding the male half of the union. The second half of the union.

-- I always put pipe dope on the union, it helps the union tighten more and it helps keep the threads from corroding together over time, making taking it appart...

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"Any plumbing from the '60s or older is on its last legs," says Howard Maxfield, a long-time home inspector in the greater Seattle area.

That's because most of the piping used pre-1960s was galvanized steel, the bane of old-house plumbing. In fact, if you are looking at a house from that era or earlier, chances are it probably has had so many problems that it's already undergone substantial re-plumbing.

But in case they have not been fixed before, these are the two top plumbing concerns you are likely to find in most old houses.

Old plumbing problem no. 1: galvanized pipes

For a quick test of an old house, turn on the hot water. If the pressure is low, the house probably has galvanized pipes that have corroded and plugged up. The hot-water pipes are the first to go.

The house could have good pressure in the hot-water lines, but still have unseen galvanized-pipe problems. It is possible that only the bad pipes were replaced, leaving lots of old...

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Hi there, I have a lot of galvanized conduit of various diameters that I found in a dumpster. I would very much like to know how to fasten one pipe to another so I can make stuff with it.

Welding: I've read on instructables and elsewhere that you will become quite ill if you weld galvanized materials due to the evolved zinc fumes. Are respirators an option?

Lap Joints: I thought of trying to make a lap joint by cutting out matching "half rings" from the pipes, overlaying them, and then bolting them through. I'm stuck as to how to make that cut though. I could do it in wood, it seems like metal would be trickier. Any thoughts?

I'm being forced to move the pipe in a week or so; any off-the-cuff ideas would be fantastic, thanks!
...

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If you have a home that is more than 30 years old, it’s very possible that the plumbing system was constructed with galvanized pipe. Although galvanized pipe has been previously used to transport drinking water, now is is more often used for sewage and irrigation plumbing. Most of these pipes contain lead, which make them unsuitable for drinking water. However, galvanized pipes can be replaced with newer lead-free models, and may still be used for non-drinking water plumbing.

Benefits of Galvanized Pipe

Galvanized pipe is coated with zinc and metal. This makes them more durable than older pipes which were crafted from steel or iron. These pipes also have added protection, because the coating of zinc prevents issues with corrosion.

Lifespan of Galvanized Pipe

Galvanized pipes are very durable, often lasting 40 years or longer. However, if your water contains high quantities of minerals, the life expectancy may decrease. Hard water, which is prevalent in...

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PAINTING galvanized pipe - how to?

I have 800' of 2.5" galvanized pipes to paint black. We are using them for area light poles in lieu of that thin steel tubing.

In The Good Ole Days I could buy a product called GalviGrip that really worked on fresh galvi surfaces. Painted my anchors white with it for years. But that was then and this is now.

What works for you in cleaning off the oil film, priming and then painting??

Any tips on a production paint yard setup? We will have a bin in the back 40 of this complex. I don't think spray is a good career move, but rollers...not a problem. Need some system of holding the pipes for painting on all sides and drying.


The ToolBear

"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something."...

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Thanks for the input. FYI...you all are talking to someone who has had NO experience with plumbing...a little work with a kitchen sink, drain, and hoses, but that's about it.

Putting a "T" in the galvanized in the basement is not something I'd be comfortable doing myself. But the idea of the cold water under the sink could work. So, that being said, you can buy a "Y" that splits from the shutoff, one to the faucet, and the other to the tubing for the refridge?

I have the plastic tubing to go to the fridge. Would I want copper instead?

Also, another concern about these old galvanized pipes. When we run a glass of water, or fill our Britta Pitcher, we usually run the water until it's ice cold. The reason for that is to flush out the line of the water that's been sitting in the galvanized pipes for however long it's been since we used it last. Is that really a concern? I'm sure these pipes are 80 years old or more.

At some point, I'd really like to re-plumb the...

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Connecting together galvanized pipes that are non-threaded uses a coupling that creates a sealed joint. It is important to know the type...

While renovating your home's plumbing, you may need to connect a PVC pipe to the existing threaded galvanized pipe of your house....

How to Thread a Steel Pipe. ... Galvanized steel pipe is coated with a thin layer of zinc to protect the steel...

How to Thread Galvanized Pipe; How to Take Apart Galvanized Pipe; How to Remove a Galvanized Pipe Fitting; Comments. Related Ads. View...

How to Connect Galvanized Pipe to PVC Pipe. ... It is always important to remember to thread a PVC pipe into a...

... manual rethreading with a pipe die and automatic rethreading with a pipe threading machine. ... How to Thread Galvanized Pipe.

To replace these old galvanized pipes, you will need to cut them out of the place they are in and install PVC...

How to Join a CPVC Pipe to a Galvanized Metal...

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Dresser couplings are a style of repair coupling used to splice plumbing pipes. They are used on galvanized, pvc, and abs drainage lines, copper water lines, pvc and cpvc water lines, and galvanized water lines. If a water line freezes and breaks, you may not be able to repair it with a brass compression fitting or a fitting from the same material as the pipe. In a case like this, try a Dresser coupling. Sometimes on old galvanized water lines the threads are corroded to the point of uselessness and you cannot rethread the pipe. You may be able to use a Dresser coupling here to repair the line if it is not corroded as well. As you can see, they are a versatile repair fitting.

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Preparation – Choose The Right Fitting

Dresser couplings come in two types, galvanized and plastic. Both types are basically a sleeve sized to slide over a particular size of pipe. The sleeve is threaded externally on both ends and comes with two threaded nuts, one for each...

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Q. I recently had a 1/2" TYPE L HMP flexible copper pipe that sprung a leak, unfortunately it was inside the wall going up to the second floor. After splicing the pipe where it was leaking another spot started leaking. I noticed inside the pipe a bunch of green "blobs" & the outside of this (HOT) water pipe a lot cleaner than the other pipe (COLD) that would have been put in at the same time, 20-25 years ago I'm guessing. I did notice one spot where the copper pipe was touching an old galvanized pipe seemed to be wet and green. Could there have been some electrolysis going on that caused this pipe to start getting finer than pin hole leaks & how much damage might have been done to the rest of the plumbing if...

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We’ve recently become pretty enamored with industrial style and design… It blends well with modern styles, and adds a rustic flavor that warms up your rooms, but keeps a style edge, as well. Pipe is an inexpensive DIY material to use when creating any style with an industrial flair. A huge number of end fittings exist, allowing you to create any size or shape project you desire. It’s easy for a beginner to use, the biggest challenge is cutting it. (Don’t worry, the tutorials cover that!) Try DIY projects with pipe!

Our feature project, above and below, is a DIY towel bar from ‘This Sorta Old Life’. We love this because it’s an easy project, and they went a step further and showed you how to make the wood base for it as well.

Now that you have making a towel bar down, care to get inspired for more? This industrial pipe hand towel rack from Etsy can be purchased, or if you are feeling creative, come up with your own, similar...

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It is no small wonder that the joint in question is leaking, the bigger question is how did it ever hold water pressure from the beginning?

If you look at that joint you can see five or six threads exposed,,,,,WRONG!!!!! When an NPT(National Pipe Taper) threaded joint is properly made up there should never be more than one full turn of thread remaining exposed. The key to running pipe with NPT threaded joints is if you can't get it tight enough with the wrenches your using, get bigger wrenches. For those of you who are trying to squeak by with 12" & 14" wrenches, forget it...for 1/2" copper pipe the minimum size wrenches you need are one 16" to steady the pipe or fitting and an 18" to rotate the opposite pipe or fitting, and keep a 24" handie just in case. Personally, I would use a 24" & a 36" wrench.

When tightening an NPT fitting you have to be very careful to stop at the correct alignment. Never reverse a pipe, If you happen to turn past the alignment, even a...

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The materials and tools necessary to build this repair stand are readily available, easy to work with, and best of all, pretty inexpensive. Every component can be found at your average home improvement store, with no modifications needed to make them work together.

What you'll need:
- (2) 1/2" by 18" length galvanized nipple (threaded about an inch on each end) - $2.73 each
- (3) 1/2" by 10" length galvanized nipple (same thread - about an inch) - $1.90 each
- (1) 1/2" by 60" length galvanized pipe (again, threaded) - $6.98
- (1) 1/2" galvanized tee fitting - $1.09
- (3) 1/2" galvanized 90 degree elbow - $0.91 each
- (2) 1/2" galvanized cap - $0.89 each
- (1) spring clamp - $3.42
- (2) hose clamps (these may vary in size depending on the size of the clamp handle - the ones I bought were for hose sizes 3/4" - 1 1/2") - $ 1.19 each
- (1) flat-head screwdriver (why do we even still use this kind of screwdriver?!) - Don't know the...

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