How do I get 3/8“ deep and 2” wide rabbet into 3/4" plywood with a handheld router

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That door looks just fine! and I've never seen better looking concrete forms. Great job.

As far as a $1000 router set up, yeah, you're right if you go top shelf, but there are ways in between that won't cost you much at all. You should get a router with top down height adjustment like a Milwaukee 5625-20 $270. Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5625-20-2-Horsepower-Variable-Adjustment/dp/B00007FPJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1293834258&sr=8-1It says 2 HP but it's 3 1/2 .

Just mount it in a Formica top, a pivoting fence with one fixed point and you have everything you need. A router plate with inserts is under $60. Bits of course are extra, but you only get what you need. The 3 bit slotting/dado set from HF works for grooves, under $10.00. Saves a bunch of cuts on the TS!


http://www.harborfreight.com/three-w...ack-42133.html

Your choice of maple may through you for a loop, when it comes to finishing or staining. Your best bet is to plan the type...

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I made this for our three children in the 1970s. It survived them and now our granddaughter is playing with it. The airplane was made with some scrap oak from old church pews and altar furniture.

Materials used were some old oak, some glue, and some latex varnish. You will also need some Fisher-Price people, or will need to make some of your own, probably on a lathe. I will give some dimensions in one of the steps.

Tools used were a radial arm saw (A table saw, even a hand crosscut saw would work.), a router, an electric drill with a 1/2 inch twist bit and a 7/8 inch spade bit, clamps for gluing, a chisel, a spokeshave, and a file. I also used some sandpaper and a brush for the varnish.
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From BeeWiki

How To

Excuse me, did you say KISS?

By Golly yes I did.

The KISS Method (Keep It Simple, Stupid), I think applies just as much, if not more so, to beekeeping than anywhere else.

It's practically unanimous opinion in the beekeeping world that bees don't care what our hives look like or what joint cuts we use or anything like that. Those variations are for us.

Because of the relative low cost and uniformity of frames for sale, it's almost not worth building your own unless you have something specific in mind. To build a Langstroth hive, you can save money by building pretty much everything but the frames.

So, if you want to keep your life simple and spend more time working with bees instead of hemorrhaging money or building like a mad person, this article might be able to help.

Believe it or not, there will be pictures of each step for each of these projects in the near future.

Technical Notes

These...

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Ok, so, I'm new at this. I am building a mantel for my fireplace. It is just a shelf with two corbels for support...so, no wood travelling all the way down the sides of the fireplace opening...it's just the shelf with corbels. I am thinking about fastening the corbels to the fireplace brickwork using a french cleat for each corbel. My mantel shelf is about 5ft long and 7 inches deep, and 2 inches thick. The corbels are about 4inches deep (two 2inch pieces attached together for the depth) and 5inches wide and perhaps 6 inches high. I am going to attach it to the red clay brick of the fireplace, which are full bricks (not a decorative facade) I'm thinking that I would drill the wall part of the cleat to the brick using tapcon screws into the mortar. The part of the cleat on the corbels I want to kind of hide inside of the corbel (not sure how I'm going to do that yet).

Now, I've read a bit on french cleats, it looks like I could use 3/4 inch stock and cut either 45 degrees or...

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It arrived in perfect condition! Quality construction. Easy assembly. I only referred to the instructions once (to confirm which legs were for the front-left and right) but the overall assembly was so simple that a 10-year-old could manage it. Small tightening wrench was included. Only needed a small Phillips screwdriver to attach the drawer knob. --- Not a single scrap of MDF or pressboard or particle-board. It is indeed SOLID WOOD through and through. We are VERY PLEASED with this purchase.

The only thing we added were self-adhesive, 1" diameter felt pads on the bottom of each leg. (Wood-legs on wood-floors is not a good combination.)

The base shelf is removable and rests on four metal "shelf-pins" that are inserted into each leg. Even though the center of the shelf is 1/8" plywood, the side (framing) pieces are solid wood, and it's sturdy enough to hold a small (12-bottle) Wine Enthusiast wine-bottle cooler.

Only one minor improvement could have been made. And this...

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Sometimes it’s nail holes and sometimes it’s rotten wood, but your projects will often require you to patch wood. In this post I’ll help you determine the best materials (and there are tons available!) to use when the time comes to patch wood projects.

The type of material you should use will depend on what kind of patching or filling you need to do. Is it exterior or interior? Will it be painted or left natural? We’ll focus on answers to those questions as well.

If you want to purchase any of these products I would love it if you bought them through the links in this post which are affiliate links and help me pay to keep this blog running at no extra cost to you. If you decide not to you can always purchase most of these at your local hardware store.

You can also read the results of my 1-year field testing of most of these wood fillers and epoxies at The Wood Filler & Epoxy Test (Year 1) to see how these products performed in the real world.

1. MH...

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Speaker Projects

A large mono speaker project, using the full range Audio Nirvana Super 15

This project was contributed by Gareth Ingram

I wanted to replace my stereo with something that didn't force me to sit in just the right place for the stereo effect. Instead I wanted something simple that could fill my open plan home with sound. I decided to design and build a mono speaker using a single driver unit. Call it a giant kitchen radio if you like.
I selected the Audio Nirvana Super 15 speaker driver. With a 15" diameter it has enough cone area to move some serious air, so good bass and loud are not an issue. The driver also extends to high frequencies. Sound quality wise it must be first rate, as good as I can get without regard to price. Well within reason. This driver has a very good reputation for sound and I have not been disappointed with it.
Such a driver needs a big box, the specifications for the driver call for 13 cubic feet ....

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Dig a hole 4 feet deep and 2 feet wide. Place the treated log in the hole. Brace the log upright using a 2-by-4.

Check that the log is level and straight by hanging a plumb bob from a spirit level on top of the log. Adjust the bracing until the log is level and straight.

Mix quick-drying concrete in a wheelbarrow according to the package directions. Back-fill the hole around the pole with gravel. Then fill the hole with concrete. Allow the concrete to set 2 to 3 days before you proceed.

Attach Garnier Limbs 8 feet up the pole according to the manufacturer's directions. Attach one limb each running to the north, south, east and west of the center pole. Attach additional limbs between the first four.

Lay plywood sheets across the Garnier Limbs to make your floor. Attach metal straps over each limb to keep the floor from coming loose.

Make prefabricated walls with 2-by-4s, as shown in the photo. Lay five 8-foot 2-by-4s 2 feet apart to make...

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