How do I put a recessed light in a wet location, where the can itself will get wet?


There's two main parts to it:

Long flexible drill bits. Home Depot and Lowes sell them. Cut access holes as needed and patch them afterwards. Since you're installing recessed lights, I would think the holes for the lights should give you enough access most of the time.

Some (most?) flex drill bits allow you to remove the bit from the drill (after the end of the bit gets where its supposed to go) and attach a wire to it and use it to pull the wire through. Such as this:

Another option is if you want to drill into the skipped joist bay from both sides (the existing light and the new light). I could imagine shaping two coat hangers (or similar bendable but stiff wire) into shapes where one could hook the other in the skipped bay and then pull it and an attached pull string through. A combination of a hook and loop perhaps.

You should think about the size and location of the holes you will...

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Imagine that you bought a few strings of incandescent Xmas lights. They are rated for indoor use only. The tag says not to use them outdoors. They aren't any cheaper than the outdoor-rated lights sold in the same store; but you feel that the indoor-rated lights come in nicer colors.

You want to use them outdoors for about one every per year (in the fall). They'll be used in a backyard hut. They'll be attached to the roof of the hut, which is made of bamboo poles. The roof is not watertight at all. The lights will remain lit all night, every night. They'll be plugged into a GFCI-protected outlet.

After the week is over, the lights will be stored away in a dry basement until the next year.

It can get chilly here in the fall -- it can dip to 5 °C (40 °F) at night. It also rains sometimes.

Rain will fall on the lights, and they'll get wet.

What are the risks?

(Optional:) If you like, also consider your favorite North American electrical code....

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The amount of light should be determined by the use of the space. Unwelcoming (and unused) basements are usually dungeon-like (too dark). Use multiple switches or dimmers to can control how bright the room is. Another option is to use wall sconces.

Some considerations for you: The brain can easily detect small changes in pattern, so make sure that the floor joists above would allow you to have the lights evenly distributed according to your plan.

Halogen PAR 20 bulbs can be warm if you have low ceilings. Fortunately, affordable LED PAR 20 bulbs are readily available now.

It's better to put in enough lights than too few, and then regret it. Just do it right.

My basement is about 20'x24' and I have two switches controlling two banks of 12 pot lights (PAR 20 are 50 W bulbs) arranged in 3x4 grid. It took a bit of figuring to get the right spacing because of the ductwork, floor joists etc. The bank on the tv side has a dimmer. I am very happy with the level...

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Wattage is really a bad way to determine the level of light needed in a room.

What you want is lumens. Wattage is only a measure of the amount of electricity used and has absolutely no bearing on the amount of light produced. For example a 4-5 watt LED , a 40 watt incandescent and a 9-13 watt compact fluorescent all produce 450 lumens.

General kitchen lighting needs 30-40 Foot Candles of light. Older people need the higher end. To determine how many lumens you will need to reach the proper Foot Candles multiply the square footage of the room by 30 or 40.

For example if your kitchen is 150 sq.ft. you will need 4,500-6,000 lumens.

You can get there with any combination of the LED, compact flourescent,or incandescent bulbs. I would put all on dimmers.

The stove and sink need 70 to 80 Ft candles and I would recommend dedicated down...

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National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations.

If it were me, I'd install a fixture rated for wet locations, just to be on the safe side.

Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use

Article 410 Luminaires, Lampholders, and Lamps

II. Luminaire Locations

410.10 Luminaires in Specific Locations.

(D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of cord-connected luminaires, chain-, cable-, or cord-suspended luminaires, lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured 900 mm (3 ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This zone is...

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Bathroom Lighting

When it comes to lighting a shower, it is critical that you make sure that you are installing lights that can withstand water. It’s important to be able to differentiate between the kinds of lights you can put in a shower. Let’s talk about which ones are the best options.

Damp vs. Wet Locations

For those people who are novices to shower lighting, you might not know the kinds of fixtures that even go in a shower to begin with. Damp locations are either exterior or interior locations that are subjected to condensation or moisture, whether or not they are protected. Moisture, in these cases, often occurs in, on, or near electrical equipment.

Wet locations, on the other hand, are subject to much more water. These spaces involve dripping, splashing, and flowing all over your electrical equipment. As such, light fixtures that go in these spaces must be constructed to prevent water reaching any live electricity or conductors that...

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Recessed light directly over shower

I know they you can buy recessed lights that have vent fans built in, or if using a regular dome light, you can buy special sauna type fixtures with heavy duty glass and rubber gasket seals. But what does the NEC say with regards to regular fixtures, specifically recessed lights, being installed directly over showers. Is there a minimum height requirement for when a fixture can or can't be directly over a shower or tub? Someone I work with said her bathroom is being redone, and the contractor put a normal recessed light directly over her shower stall. I don't know the NEC details with this, but I'm assuming that isn't okay without it having some sealed dome over it, or a fan built in it. Any insight into the matter is greatly appreciated!...

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Adding a recessed light above the shower provides welcome illumination while showering. Recessed bathroom lighting is perfect for the ceiling above the shower because it does not take up any space over head. A special moisture-resistant bathroom light fixture is required in the shower because the area is subject to so much moisture and humidity. You may replace an existing light fixture or install a new fixture after an electrician runs the necessary wiring. Choose a simple recessed light or select a light-and-heat-lamp combination or a light-and-fan combination.

Hold the template that comes with your new recessed light on the ceiling between joists and trace the shape onto the ceiling with a pencil. This is your guide for cutting out the drywall. Before you begin the installation process, turn off the electricity to your bathroom.

Use a drywall saw or a small jigsaw fitted with a drywall blade to cut through the ceiling. Take care not to cut deeper...

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This is another article in a series dedicated to helping you create a home with beautiful lighting by choosing the best light bulbs. Recessed lights can be a little complicated, but once you've got the basics down, it's smooth sailing!

The first thing you'll need to do is determine which light bulb size your recessed light fixture takes. Here's what you'll see among recessed lighting options: BR30, MR11, MR16, PAR16, PAR20, PAR30, PAR38, R20, R30, R40.

Wow. Let's break that down a little:

The number following the letters in a recessed light bulb indicates size: it's the diameter of the light bulb in eighths of an inch. So, a BR30 is 30/8 inches, or three and 3/4 inches. An MR11 is 11/8 inches. So, you can swap out a PAR30 for an R30 or a BR30 - they are all the same size.

The PAR denotes the light bulb has a parabolic aluminized reflector on its inside, directing light out. That PAR coating maximizes the light output that you'll get from the light bulb....

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