How much extra decking to order to allow for offcuts

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Before you start with a sander, I would try a power washer. These can be rented from a big box store for a day or two. If you have several projects, consider purchase. You do need to be careful since the force of the water is strong enough to cause injury if mishandled. Also, do not try to powerwash very soft woods such as redwood or cedar.

It is amazing how much embedded grime and algae the washer can remove. If you still need sanding before refinishing, the amount of sanding will be greatly reduced. You also may find you can use a penetrating opaque or semi-opaque stain rather than the heavy coating type finish. Small chips or divots can be filled with exterior wood filler.

As to the swelled boards that eliminated drip joints, if this is only in a few places and there is no pooling water, this should not be a problem. You do need to sand down any spots that have raised enough to be a trip...

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My husband took apart the porch last year and had to figure this. I would measure the area and mark it out on graph paper, just because I need a visual picture! For me I visualize a deck in "squares". Our deck did a zig zag at each end. For me I visualized it as three individual squares. That way I could figure how much wood was needed for each section and for the whole. If you will be mitering to create a pattern you will need to add more for waste. It is recommended to add 10% for waste.

Any lumber you get will not be true. Using a 5/4 x 6, it is actually only about 5.5 in. Figure out the length(s) you need and divide the width of your deck by 5.5 in. Remeber to place a gap between each board to allow for expansion and contraction!

ex: You need 16 ft lengths. your width is 10ft. 10 ft is equal to 120 in. Divide 120 in by 5.5 and you get 21.8 round up to 22. Add in your 10% for waste. You will need about 25, 5/4 x6x16ft lengths.

Also if you are redoing the deck...

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In regards to flashing the full width of the deck:

Instead of flashing the entire width of the deck, usually the vinyl would go up the wall several inches. If this is not the case, and there is also no flashing, I would call a vinyl guy (not the same one who is responsible for this atrocity) to come in and do that. they should be able to look after this, heat-welding vinyl-to-vinyl, and use some good sealant at the doorway seam and do a better job and use a better product than most homeowner specials. Below is an image of a this after I reinstalled some of the siding, but you can still see how the vinyl goes up the wall.

In regards to caulking as a solution:

Just to reiterate that there is no cheap way to fix this properly at this point. Whoever built your deck is not someone who should be charging people since they have no clue what they are doing.

You can use caulking for a temporary solution but you should know that it is something you need to...

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Building furniture from pieces of timber already prepared for outdoor use has the added advantage of usually not requiring extra treatment or finishing, except possibly for sealing cut ends with a suitable timber preservative. And primed treated pine can be painted straight away without needing an undercoat.

Combining different materials will often give you the best results. For example, you can make a gorgeous sunlouger by building a frame with a curved profile from marine ply or framing timber, then clad it with short pieces of decking or screening.

Decking is probably the most common source of offcuts after a major DIY project. It’s usually sold in 5.4m lengths and cut to length on-site. Especially considering it’s wise to buy a little more than you need to allow a margin for error, this means you tend to be left with a considerable quantity of surplus pieces that don’t end up on your deck, some of which can be more than a metre long.

Screening is another...

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Now you've got your pieces cut, you've made the edges look fancy and it's all lying there ready for construction...

A. Get your clamps ready, then lay out the first corner and leg. Take a long side, a short side and a leg and place them together as shown in the image below. This is upside down to the way it will finally sit. The small offcut under the leg is to set the leg slightly below the top of the planter so you can't see it from the side. See image 1.

B. Clamp the parts together so that you can still get two screws into both decking parts. See image 2 and 3.

C. Screw the corners of the decking to the legs. There should be a screw in each corner of the decking planks. See image 4 for approximate screw positions.

D. Move on to the next corner - don't forget to offset the leg with the offcut. See Image 5.

E. Finish all four corners in the same manner - see Image 6.

F. Screw down all the side pieces - fit them up first to see which order...

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Installing your new Deck

We have calculated your deck based on the following installation guidelines:

Joist and Post Installation

The number of rows of joists is: The space between each row of joists is: mm Please ensure that you allow for at least 3 posts per joist Please note, we have allowed for a 5% increase in boards to ensure that you have enough to complete your project

Laying your joists

When laying your joists please start at row 1 by laying one complete joist at a right angle to the direction that your boards are going to run. Continue to lay joists end on end until you have exceeded the width of your deck. Cut off any excess joist and then start row 2 with the resulting off cut. Please see the diagram below for a visual representation of this.

Diagram to show how the offcut from row 1 should be used to start row 2.

Example shown based on a 5000mm (5m) wide deck.

Fascias

All our fascias are standard decking...

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Basement Understair Storage Shelves

The design shown here gives you storage spaces of different sizes, including a tall narrow box for items such as brooms or skis. The boxes are so quick and easy to build that you'll have no trouble adapting them to your storage needs as well as to the size and pitch of the space under your stairs.

Materials and finishing
These boxes are built for utility, not beauty. They are made from inexpensive particleboard without finish, although you can paint them for a more attractive look. One word of caution: Don't build the boxes with particleboard if your basement is damp. Particleboard readily absorbs moisture that makes it swell, and it will crumble if it gets wet. Use CDX plywood instead. This inexpensive grade of plywood, intended for exterior sheathing, is made with water-resistant glue.

Checklist

Time
About 4 hours

Tools
Measuring tape, electric drill/driver, tablesaw or circular saw, framing...

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First, sweep the voids to remove any debris. To stop the loose-fill leaking out under the eaves, create a barrier where the joists meet the rafters using a small section of blanket insulation, as shown here. If your roof is covered with non-breathable felt, leave a 2-in (50-mm) gap between the roof and the blanket to allow air to circulate freely.

Carefully pour loose-fill insulation into the areas between the joists. Pour in enough to reach the top of the joists. It is best to start at the eaves on one side of the roof and work across to the other.

Cut a section of plywood to the same width as the gap between the joists. Sweep the fill away from you, using the offcut to level it off. Move excess loose-fill to areas that need to be built up.

When leveled off, you should have an even coverage across the entire attic space. The blanket insulation at the eaves will prevent "creeping."

The depth of the loose-fill will determine any further requirements...

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Building a ground-level deck is by far the easiest option if your available space is flat and sound enough to take it. There are no real foundations to create, not posts to fix and you won’t usually have to worry about creating steps or balustrade. It could potentially even be taken with you when you move house! If you are organised and plan it well, there is no reason why one person could not finish this type of deck in a single day. This guide is based on building a square or rectangular ground-level deck.

Creating the Frame

Check your measurements and cut all of the bearers you need to create the outer frame for the deck. Lay all four pieces out flat on the floor, in their correct positions, and fix them together using butt joints at the corners. You should use screws at least 150mm long to fix the bearers together, and at least two for each corner. Measure diagonally across the frame (both directions) to make sure that it is square and then nail a batten across...

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Compared to building a deck foundation, installing decking boards is an uncomplicated and straightforward process. If you are lulled into complacency by the apparent ease of the task, however, you may end up with noticeable imperfections, such as uneven gaps or raised screw heads, and you may waste wood. Although there is nothing difficult about laying decking boards, a little care and a few tricks will help you to do it right.

Make a Plywood Spacer

Proper spacing between the decking boards is essential for drainage. Many installers insert a nail upright between pairs of boards before attaching them. The width of the nail may not provide enough spacing for wet conditions, however, and leaves and debris that collect between expanded boards might inhibit drainage. Using a strip of 1/4-inch plywood instead of nails allows you to increase the gap. If the strip is long enough, you can leave it in place when you need to pry a warped board into alignment with another board,...

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It’s advisable to first work out your square meterage, you can do this by simply measuring the area in metres and multiply the width by the depth. If the area you are decking is not a simple rectangle, then you will need to divide it into ‘rectangles’ and calculate each area individually (illustrated below – turn your phone on its side if you wish to see a larger image).

One you have your square meterage it is advisable to seek advice from the supplier of decking so they can work out exactly how much decking you require. This will vary whether you are looking to use offcuts, and dependent on the size of the boards.

For example, on a 150mm x 25mm board, if you multiplied your square meterage by 1.63, this would give you the number of boards to cover the area when using offcuts. If you did not wish to use offcuts, then you would need to purchase additional boards.

Some companies have online decking calculator tools to help you work out the amount of...

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woodchip

After building this project, I've noticed the following points:

There is one piece of wood missing from the cut list. I had a couple of extra 2x4's so wasn't that put out by it, but others may be affected.

This plan is designed to coordinate with the Outdoor Sofa, but the plans are subtly different - the Outdoor Sofa does not have the back supports included (the wood that is placed on edge under the two arm rests and back), so if building both pieces, you'll want to allow for the extra stock necessary to include those three extra pieces.

In order to build both pieces, I purchased thirty 8' 2x4's, knowing that I would have lots of offcuts remaining. I intend to use these offcuts to build a coffee table/footrest that will accommodate the last seat cushion (since I purchased seven 2pc cushions to fill in all the sections of back rest), and also frame a water table for my child.

I purchased these:...

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Your husband is totally incorrect. Having enough flooring to do the job right isn't the place to cheap out. And you need to have extras to store in case of damage down the road.

10% extra is fine for ceramic or porcelain laid straight. 15% for a diagonal layout.

You're not doing ceramic or porcelain. For natural stone, 15% allows for you to be able to cull some of the less "pretty" tiles as well as enough to allow for cuts. 20% for natural stone on the diagonal.

For some stones with a wide variation like some slates, 20-40% would be needed because the cull rate is much higher. I've seen cheap slate from a box store that had a 2 out of 3 cull rate. That takes that "bargain" price to a much higher level if you have to account for the unusable...

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Right To Work States.

There are 22 Right To Work states. Right To Work State is one in which a union such as Sag or Aftra does not have the right to require a minimum amount of pay you would receive for working as an actor, extra or other member of the film or TV crew.

These states include: South Dakota, Kansas, Nebraska, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas, Iowa, Texas, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Idaho, Wyoming, North Dakota, Mississippi, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina and Virginia.

Union And Non-Union Rates

There are two types of EXTRAS in the industry, , Union EXTRAS and Non-Union EXTRAS. Both have their own pay-rates based on the same work (see the next section for more information on unions).

A Union member makes more money than a Non-Union Extra. Union Extras are members of the Screen Actors Guild (SAG) or Aftra and that either requires luck or perseverance to join. But it is possible. It's a myth that...

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Extra copies are not given in most cases.

Only titles purchased in special promotions as outlined below are eligible for giftable extra copies

How do I receive extra copies to share with friends?

Extra copies will only be issued as a special promotion in the following specific cases:

Users who own “Half-Life 2” and go on to purchase “The Orange Box” will receive an extra copy of “Half-Life 2”. Users who own “Half-Life 2: Episode One” and then go on to purchase the “The Orange Box” will receive an extra copy of “Half-Life 2: Episode One”. Users who own "Dawn of War II"and then go on to purchase "Dawn of War II Gold Edition" will receive an extra copy of "Dawn of War II" Users who purchase the available four packs for specific Steam titles will receive three extra copies of that title to gift to friends. Extra copies may apply as a part of some limited time promotions. In that case, information on what will be included with your purchase will be...
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Our towns and cities have become pocket-sized safari parks for insects, amphibians, small mammals and birds. In many parts of the UK, a number of amphibian species - such as frogs, toads and newts - are facing serious decline because of the loss of ponds in the wider countryside. So, gardeners can do their bit by creating their own wildlife pond, which will also look great and provide a year-round focal point.

Make a start by marking out the position on the ground. Use a garden hose for an informal-shaped pond, or canes and string for formal designs, as in our example, below.

When calculating the size of liner for your pond, measure the length and multiply it by twice the depth, adding on 15cm for an overlap. Repeat this for the width to get the size...

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If you’re looking for a unique way to create a one of a kind swimming pool on your property, have you considered a modified shipping container? At around 2.4m in height and width, and anywhere from 6-12m in length, a converted shipping container can be an easy solution for a portable, plug and play swimming pool. While constructing pools from shipping containers isn’t a service that we offer, it’s a pretty cool idea.

6 Steps to building a modified shipping container swimming pool:

1. First get planning permission from your local council and investigate any regulations regarding depth, fencing and any other things that might get in the way of the construction of your shipping container swimming pool. It’s far better to get these out of the way before you start construction than to be stuck with a 40 foot modified shipping container that isn’t full of people having fun in the water!

2. You’ll probably want someone with a structural engineering background on...

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With a wood top layer and an attractive smooth finish, this real wood top layer flooring gives the appearance of solid wood. A hard wearing floor, its engineered base layer provides resistance to heat and moisture changes in your room. The click fitting system makes for simple installation too.

Guarantee - 5 years Click fitting system Type of underlay required - Foam, wood fibre or polystyrene

Each plank of this oak flooring is unique in design, with variations in grain and colour which adds to the character of your floor. The grain pattern contains a beautiful display of the tree's annual growth with knots of various sizes. You are able to sand and re-lacquer the flooring 2-3 times, helping to prolong the life of your floor. The timeless beauty of natural wood will form an excellent background to all types of interior styles, whether classic or modern.

Please note that this...

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