How should I connect a steel I beam to the sill plate above it?


Sometimes concrete just doesn't cooperate. I'd say up to an inch out of play is the carpenter's job to deal with. Two and a half inches! is possibly a problem for lawyers...

Had the distance been fudged to one and a quarter inches on both sides, (harrumph) maybe that'd be OK...

I'd be interested in what the permissible 'fudge factor' for sill plates overhanging the foundation is. I doubt your contractor will provide you with any contrary information, though.

Also, don't count on the building inspector either. They probably know each other (and if they do, he knows what he can get away with).

IRC code for sill plates is what I'd ask Stack Exchange for. Anyone brought in from the outside will know to ask the right questions and of whom; my only question for them would be {point finger} What The...

Is the foundation and carpentry square? (one of them is not)

Should the sill plate be enlarged to deal with the foundation's offset? What is the...

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Go ahead and put that wall right on under that beam. The beam is a bearing surface for what is up above the beam. The wall you are adding is a non bearing wall that will not hinder the bearing capacity of the beam. Nail it in place using standard nailing practice. In other words, don't load it up with no more nails than you need, one nail staggered every 16", 2 on the ends.

The thing about the non-bearing wall you are building, it can never be made a bearing wall unless you do something with the floor it sets on. The reason why I bring this up, it is possible that in the future, and it is highly unlikely that somebody at some time sees this wall under the beam and thinks "well this wall is under this portion of this beam and I need to run such and such through this area, I will just cut it out since there is this wall under it." WRONG. The beam MUST remain intact as if there is no wall under...

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My house has a gap between the Basement wall and Sill Plate (location best shown in this picture). While there are several question and answers here, I have not found any that deals with a fix from the outside.

I started looking into this since even with the fire place going, there is still a draft of cold air coming in, and from the direction of the fire place.


Does anyone have any guidance on the correct way to address something like this? Could I use Great Stuff on the exterior between the Sill plate and the basement wall?

Asking this since I do not know if there are any consequences. I live in a Zone 5 climate.

The gap is shown here with the spot light from the flash light.

Here's the view when I took a step back. This is the exterior wall, underneath the natural gas fire place.

Fireplace thermal - comparing the heat from fire to the stone base. Obviously, this is a picture from inside the...

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This question already has an answer here:

Sorry for my choice of words yesterday. Hope this is better explained: ground water flooded two finished rooms in my basement. Took out rotting, mildewed drywall, studs, sill plate, insulation. A contractor dug a trench 10" wide in the floor at the base of the exterior walls, installed a floor-to-ceiling vapor barrier that drains any/all incoming moisture into that trench and out via a shiny new sump pump. (For the first time in 30+ years, no water ingress.) Now, I'm replacing those walls. The trench the contractor dug was about 15" deep, lined with gravel, fitted with a porous pipe, covered with more gravel and finished with a layer of cement - how thick? Maybe an inch or so... There already are some cracks in the stuff. But the gravel/pipe combo is working very well so no problems yet. Except I need to put down a new sill-plate on the floor and am concerned that trying to drive anything into this cement will shatter it. So I...

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I am building a house that is 26' x 40' I would like to have a steel beam spanning the 40' length at the center of the 26' wall over the basement. Right now I have a choice if I want the beam flush with the perimeter sill plate, or lowered 1-1/2" and have a sill plate on top of the beam. There will be a support column at 15'-10" supporting the beam. The ends of the beam will be in pockets in a poured concrete wall.

The house will be a stick framed with no load bearing interior walls. The basement will be finished with drywall on the ceilings and the above floor will be 3/4" hardwood. The joists will be blocked and toe-nailed to the foundation wall sill plate.

I was wondering if you can tell me:

- What are the advantages and disadvantages resting the joists directly on the steel beam?
- If I do need a 2-by plate between the joists and the beam must it be pressure treated?
- What size beam and column I will need and how much should I expect...

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A steel I-beam is a type of joist or girder made from structural steel. I-beams are used as major support trusses in building, to ensure that a structure will be physically sound. Steel is one of the most common materials used to make I-beams, since it can withstand very heavy loads, although other materials, such as aluminum, are sometimes used. Composite I-beams are also available, with layers of other materials encasing the outside of the steel to disguise it as something else, such as wood.

The shape of a steel I-beam strongly resembles a capital “I” in cross section, which explains the name. It has a strong central core capped with flanges on either side. Various lengths of beam are available to suit construction project needs, and each beam also carries a rating, indicating how large it is and how much weight it is able to bear. When engineers are designing a structure, they determine what the load limits of the I-beams used in the structure should be.

There are...

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I had a feeling that if it was unrestrained, then under load the plate might rotate about the end of the beam when a load was introduced (since the beam is bearing on less than 50% of the plate, but the reaction to the plate is over 100% of the length). I've since done an experiment which seems to suggest that this might actually be correct:

... standing in for the I beam, I have a length of 18mm OSB/3, the spreader plate is being impersonated by a piece of hardboard (probably a bit harsh on the spreader plate, the hardboard has way too much flex - maybe I should try and find a bit of ply), and I have a piece of polyethylene foam to take the place of the masonry. Although the polythene deflects way more than the masonry, hopefully it shows where the load would be concentrated, as the masonry will deform slightly prior to cracking?

I put the plate in two different arrangements:

In the first, the beam bears onto the whole of the...

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A beam is a structural element that primarily resists loads applied laterally to the beam's axis. Its mode of deflection is primarily by bending. The loads applied to the beam result in reaction forces at the beam's support points. The total effect of all the forces acting on the beam is to produce shear forces and bending moments within the beam, that in turn induce internal stresses, strains and deflections of the beam. Beams are characterized by their manner of support, profile (shape of cross-section), length, and their material.

Beams are traditionally descriptions of building or civil engineering structural elements, but any structures such as automotive automobile frames, aircraft components, machine frames, and other mechanical or structural systems contain beam structures that are designed to carry lateral loads are analyzed in a similar fashion.


Historically beams were squared timbers but are also metal, stone, or combinations of wood...

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Stabilizing Basement Walls with Steel I-Beams

Floor-to-floor bracing is simple, fast, and permanent

By Dave Cunningham

I work in and around Kansas City, Mo., where the land is river bottom and the soil is all clay -- one of our counties is even called Clay County. Most of the houses built on this heavy, unstable soil are candidates for foundation work -- drainage and waterproofing, foundation jacking, or wall repair.

Many of the homes in the post World War II developments have block basements, often laid with no grout or rebar in the cores. I've rebuilt a lot of those basements, but there's plenty of work ahead of me. Other homes have stone foundations, which are also vulnerable to buckling inward from soil pressure. Even many of the poured concrete walls have tipped inward. That's why I've been able to make basement work a big part of my remodeling business.

Some walls (especially the stone and block ones) have to...

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TOE NAILED FRAMING CONNECTIONS - CONTENTS: toe-nailing framing lumber: where, how & how many nails should be used, at what angle, to what depth, to provide a strong toe-nailed joint between a stud or rafter or joist and its abutting beam, plate or ridgeboard? POST a QUESTION or READ FAQs about toe nailing in wood frame construction REFERENCES

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Wood frame toe nailing: how to toe-nail joists, studs, & beams in wood framed structures.

This article describes the proper method for strong "double-shear" angled or toe nailing of joists or studs that butt into beams or top or shoe plates in wood framed buildings. Properly done, toe-nailing makes very strong wood framing connections. But mistakes like choosing the wrong nail size, wrong nail placement, or wrong number of nails can mean weak joints and a weak structure.


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You said sill plate and rim joist - will address teh sill plate below first - rim joist after that.

Your carpenter friend is right in many cases - in others that will get you into trouble, because even the gable end wall carried some load.

I have done this a number of times - after being sure siding is not fastened into the sill plate (or removing those pieces first), takes a bit of supporting timbering under the top plate of the wall or the outside floor joist (if accessible) to support the endwall (I used angled 4x4's on 2 story houses, 2x4's on 1 story), then use a skilsaw with nail cutting blade or a sawzall to cut the nails into the bottom of the studs, cut any anchor bolts in that section, use skilsaw and prybar to slice up and remove the existing damaged plate section (usually piecemeal), hammer the new one in, toenail the studs back in place, and put in new tiedown anchor bolts to replace the cut ones.

If you are working on a load-bearing wall procedure...

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Foundation Settlement is typically only damaging when it is differential, meaning portions of the foundation settle at different rates or different amounts. Theoretically, a house could settle several feet all at once and not sustain any damage. Practically, if the amount of foundation settlement is reasonable, uniform, and is not progressing, the only concerns are cosmetic. When portions of a foundation settle differentially, many problems emerge. Some of these could be vertical cracks in the foundation, uneven floors, drywall cracks, chimneys pulling away from the house, and tight doors and windows. Some of these problems can be tricky to fix and sometimes it will not be practical to get things back to a level and plumb condition.

Crawl Space Foundation Inspections, Estimates, and Repairs in Atlanta Ga

Foundation settlement is not always the big problem it may look like to a homeowner. If the settlement has already created a structural hazard, it will...

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1. On-Grade Post and Pier


The pier and ground anchor foundation system has long been the common and accepted manufactured home support and anchorage system. It adapts easily to local site conditions, does not require a great deal of dimensional precision, and goes into place quickly. In the most frequently used configuration, piers are designed by our engineers to be installed under the main beams of the home sections, under the mating line of multi-section homes and at other points designated by the home manufacturer. Perimeter piers or blocks may also be a part of the home's support system.

The most common pier types are steel jack stands or hollow core concrete masonry blocks with open cells placed vertically and stacked one on top of the other to the required height. These can be single stacks of blocks or double stacks, laid up in an interlocking configuration. Concrete block piers over 36 in. high should be configured as double block...

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The key component of Colonel John "Hannibal" Smith's favorite saying, "I love it when a plan comes together!" is the plan. Take that to heart and you will spare yourself a lot of trouble when building a garage. You will need to plan the layout of the new garage within your lot, plan the size, shape, and look of your garage, plan the materials needed, plan the subcontractors, plan the permits and inspections, plan the zero-cost (beer compensated) workers, plan the timetables, plan the weather... well you get the picture. If planning is not your cup of tea, then maybe you should just write a check for ~$25k to get it done by a crew of folks who will do a fine job without you learning a damn thing.

So step 1 is simply this: do the legwork and get a plan together. Easier said than done.

Key areas to consider:
1. How big do you want the garage to be?
2. How big can the garage be (city ordinances!?!)?
3. Where and how many doors and windows?
4. What type...

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Deck & porch ledger boards:

Most residential decks are supported on one side by a ledger that is bolted or lagged to the home’s band joist. This connection is critical, since a failure here can cause a deck to collapse.

This article explains critical safe-construction details for decks and porches, including avoiding deck or porch collapse and unsafe deck stairs and railings.

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Photos & Construction Details of Unsafe Compared with Safe Deck & Porch Connections to the Building

Deck Ledger Board Connection to Building Band Joist

[Click to enlarge any image]

Deck Collapse Case Study (link given below) describes several improper connections between a residential deck and the building that led to...

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