How Should I Fill In a Hole in Slab Around Floor Drain

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I think I have a good idea about how to go about this, but wanted to throw it out here to make sure I don't wander down the wrong path. I recently installed a new floor drain. I broke up the concrete in a circle around the old drain, maybe 14-18 inches in diameter. Under 2-3 inches of concrete was gravel and a few more inches down was the clay dirt under the house. Below is a picture generally representing this. There was a 4" PVC pipe running up from the ground where the old drain was attached. I cut off the old drain and solvent welded the new drain (also PVC) onto the end of the pipe. Now I want to fill the hole back in and finish the concrete level with the new drain.

I have a pile of gravel, broken up concrete chunks and dirt which I excavated from the hole to access the pipe. I could put some of this material back in, maybe fill in around it with sand, building up layers of that until I'm about where the concrete begins in the surrounding slab, and then fill that area...

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Ok, I went to the big blue box store, read every bag they had there, and answered my own question.

As Cory (properly) pointed out, the mesh in the bottom of the hole isn't doing much good. It seems that this is a 'peak' in the sand that forms the substrate for my foundation; the sand slopes downhill to a depth of about ten inches on either side. I'm not sure why it's built this way, but as I can't really fix it now without doing a lot more work that I don't want to do to the vapor barrier and other aspects, I levered up the wire so that I could fit stones underneath it and there's now about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance between the wire and the bottom of the Chasm.

I just finished scrubbing it down with water and will let it dry overnight, and then tomorrow when I'm ready to mix I'll apply a primer that should help the concrete adhere.

I purchased this bag of fiber-reinforced high strength quickrete because over an area of the slab the size I'm patching, it...

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In order to do some drain relocation I have cut open several big holes in my concrete slab. The slab is 4" thick and sitting on compacted fill which is mostly sand down here in Miami, FL.

I have done this in several bathrooms and the holes vary in sizes, the larges one 4'x7' and the smallest one 2'x5'.

After the drain relocation was done I put the sand back in, compacted it and used a garden hose to soak the soil, let dry, recompacted and soaked with water again.

Then I contact several concrete contractors to repair the slab. The trouble I am having is they are giving me very different opinions.

One says I should drill holes every 18" into the existing concrete, insert 3/8" rebars into them so the old and new concrete will tie together, or else the new concrete would most likely settle over time.

The other says nonsense, drilling large diameters into existing concrete will more than likely crack that concrete and create another distress line,...

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Charles,

As some have already mentioned, framing in the area with dimensional, treated framing lumber (secured properly to the existing slab) and decking the area with glued and screwed down plywood will be the most cost effective. It can be made very sound if installed properly and leveled to the surrounding slab. It really depends on the floor covering that will be going into the area. If carpet, wood or laminate, I would just do the wood framed method.

If going with a hard good like tile or marble (or even vinyl) I would put in a 2" pad of clean sand, expansion joint around the perimeter, then just pour a stiff mix (as stiff as possible- stiffer means harder when cured). It would be easier just to call a concrete mix company out, pay their min. cost (usually a 2-3 yard minimum- but you only get what you need- less than 2 yards). The easiest way to get it placed would be to contract with a pumping company (usually a 1 hour minimum- $75-$100) and have the mix company deliver...

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So I live in an area with a very high clay content in the soil. The entire neighboorhood also happens to be built on natural springs. So the water table is alreayd pretty high.

The basement walls had weeping holes in them when we bought the place, and water would come shooting out of one of them whenever it rained a lot. So I attached a PVC tube to the hole and diverted the water back to the floor drain in the back basement. That is that red line in the picture, the tube goes behind the walls and to the back and the water shoots out and goes down the drain. Works like a charm, dry basement.

Until a year or so ago. If we get heavy rains, and if the ground is already saturated from previous rains, I will sometimes get a damp spot at the foot of the stairs. Here's the thing though, I pulled up the carpet once when it happened, removed the moldings, and the area by the wall is bone dry. About a foot or so away from the wall, there's a damp area on concrete...

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Shower floors, laundry areas, entryways, garage floors and patios are all areas where the floor may have a drain built in to help the floor drain water to a specific point. The amount of slope varies by floor, but all floors with drains have the same basic principles as part of the installation. Slope ensures that the water drains every time to avoid buildup that can cause mold and water damage. A properly sloped drain will carry all water and moisture down to the drain and away from the finish surface.

Measure the height of the drain with the tape measure. Calculate your slope from there to the outer edge of your room. You need 1/4 inch of slope for every linear feet of floor space. For example, a floor that extends 4 feet away from the drain should have 1 inch of overall slope. Mark this outer height mark along the wall with a pencil.

Mix up some concrete mix in the mixer. Keep the mixture somewhat damp so that when you clump it in your first it will hold the form....

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17 Answers

I would foam over the dirt, but not fill the rest to make it easy to service.

We'd like to understand what you find wrong with Stratmando's answer:

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Massplumber, There's already a bathtub installed in the basement. Crazy's asking about the dap-out.
Crazy,We leave our dap-outs open in my area unless we are ordered to seal it. In that case we hit on the roofers for some melted tar and pour it in the hole just enough to cover the bottom of the hole. Regards, Tom

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In response to your followup about "what's the difference between cement patch, pourable grout, and the squeezable quikrete stuff that comes in quart bottles?"

Here is a link to the quikcreste site list of products - you can look through the various concrete repair and driveway repair lines for detailed info on the types and their products, though other manufacturers have similar products too. I will refer to Quikcrete products below though they are not my preferred brand but they are commonly available to consumers and you have them available, so I will refer to them for your convenience.

http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/...

Cement patch is a grout (like Quikcrete Concrete Patching Compound 8650-35) designed to be used to patch pits and holes in concrete, comes as a premix or as a powder you mix to about cake mix consistency and trowel on. Typically recommends a concrete binder or adhesive (like Quikcrete Bonding Adhesive 9902) if a straight...

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What's underneath the slab? What type of soil is the slab sitting on? Was it properly prepared with a sand/gravel subbase? Or is it just sitting on clay? How low in relation to the surrounding topography is the garage slab?

Drilling holes in the slab could cause more problems than it solves if you don't have proper lot grading or clay soil conditions. It will also be a direct route for termite infestation into your home if the slab wasn't properly prepared with the right treated sub base. Know the answers to these questions, as well as how thick the slab is, and you'll have your answer on whether or not to drill into it. A less expensive option might be one of the new garage mats sold that channel water away. They're designed for cars that just bring a little rain or snow into the garage. If you've got other water problems beyond a small puddle of residual rain or snow running off of the cars, then you have a BIG problem, and one that won't be solved by drilling...

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Hi, brand-new SpiceWorks member, here! I've come across posts in this community that have helped me in the past, but now I've got a question that's a real head-scratcher and my Google-fu isn't working for me today.

Question is: I'm doing the network wiring for a 9,000 sq. foot, two-story office building. We've got about 150 Cat 6 cables to run from the second-floor network/server room down into the plenum airspace on the first floor, where they'll be pulled to all the 1st floor cubicles. The construction of the building and floors is solid concrete. To facilitate running the cables we had our plumber drill two roughly 6" diameter holes through the concrete floor, so we can drop the cables straight down. Now we're looking for some kind of way to sleeve these holes; can't use PVC pipe because of fire code, but am not having any luck finding a clean, neat solution that meets code and will keep the wires organized. We're using all plenum-rated cable, wire ties, and J-hooks, so...

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I've searched the forum but I just can't seem to find and answer as to how to break/cut the concrete slab without breaking the cast iron drain.

I hope you can help me.

I am planning on building a bathroom in my basement which requires me to cut the slab and tee into the main stack (cast iron) which is actually in a corner of the room, about 1 ft from each wall.

My plan is to either rent one of those big concrete saws or use my angle grinder with a diamond blade and a chisel to cut the slab and then cut the stack and use a PVC Y with rubber sleeves to connect everything back together.

Four questions:

1) What is the best (and cheapest) way to cut the slab and the cast iron pipe?

2) How to I cut/break the slab without any damage to the cast iron pipe?

3) How do I determine which way the drain is pointing under the slab before cutting it? The basement floor drain is right in the middle of the room, the stack is between the basement floor...

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For my 2nd garage added in NJ, I just had the floor sloped to drain to the center drain, which was just a rocky hole in the ground. This worked for the occasional wash, water drain in that garage area but isn't good for heavy usage.

For my carriage house here in central Va, I had the same center drain installed but plumbed it to drain outside. At first, I just had it draining onto the ground outside. Recently, I dug a dry well of about 2x2 and filled it with rock and extended the drain into the hole.

Bio action in the soil will biodegrade most stuff that you drain into it. Just catch the bulk of the material, like used oil and antifreeze before it gets there. Little bits of this stuff will eventually biodegrade by microbes in the soil. If you really wanted to do it right, you could extend arms out from the dry well with perforated pipes, like your septic drain field. Even it won't handle much, if any, antifreeze unless it's the polypropylene glycol.

Oh, I piped a drain...

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Ok here's the situation. It's going to be a bit of a book, sorry..

My basement (mancave) is mostly finished, with a main "living room", 3/4 bathroom, and 'bedroom' (which I use as an office). It is a slab floor with carpeting. It was configured this way when I bought the house. Now, there is also a large "unfinished" area where the washer/dryer is, and another walled-off room where the HVAC unit is. There are two floor drains in this area (one of which is constantly in use from the A/C drain in the summer and humidifier drain in the winter.

For the very first time since I've been here, I had a water intrusion into the 'unfinished' area. One particularly nasty storm dumped 5" of rain in about 20 minutes, and due to the wind-blown debris the gutters clogged, causing them to overflow down the side of the house, dumping right into the window well. The well filled up completely, and weight of the water pushed the window open and water just poured in. This is when I...

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Should have forseen the wife/M-I-L comments!

Having just forked out a load of cash on a wedding less than two months ago, I'd rather get my monies worth. Good suggestions though!

The bottom of the sunken bit (both levels of it) is just mud. It's only the vertical surfaces in the sunken bit that are concrete blocks, so apart from removing the top level of them, I'm gonna leave that as it is. There is a square ring of concrete around the top bit (where the messy pile of rubble is) but I haven't investigated how deep that is. I think I need to dig it out and then dig the mud down a bit too, to give room for some hardcore there.

allthepies - I could rent it to some local mafia bods, perhaps?!

taka - a hot tub has been mentioned!!

Jolly Green Giant - that sounds like a good suggestion. How expensive is it though? Would it be overkill? Would normal hardcore be OK. This sort of stuff?...

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