How should I finish a wooden countertop that will have a stovetop and a sink?


I have a kitchen island that has a cutting board top. I have just sanded it and would like to put some kind of finish coat on it.
Can you recommend an oil finish that is suitable for a food preparation surface?


FINISH on a cutting board may be a misnomer!

Proper surface treatment however is important to guard against germs or mould growth.

It is important to note that Rockhard Maple and a few other closed grained hardwoods are the only suitable woods for cutting board use. Never use oak, ash, hickory or other open grained woods for a cutting surface as the pores can harbor germs and decaying food particles. Softer closed grained woods deteriorate with knife cuts and usage and become unsanitary and wood splinters or particles wind up in foodstuffs.

A Cutting Board or Butcher Block Surface needs an oil that can be repeatedly applied to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids and oils.

The oil must...

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Assuming that the laminate is Formica, you should line out the exact cut area, but allow a fraction of finish, IF you intend a professional job.
I guess you could use a chain saw, NO OFFENSE.

A finish blade appropriate will be fine, BUT too if you choose to cut with a finish blade of a scroll saw for example, you might reverse the blade in a scroll saw to inflict the possibility of damage more to the underside of what is likely MDF Depending on blade Kerf and tooth size.

A more gentle, or detailed way would be to rough cut then use a router.

I have to say this,and to me it wasn't funny at the time but is now. I did a Kitchen counter top, even thinking, in my inexperience, that I had measured correctly and cut correctly, only to discover that the cutout was larger than the sink. That was a costly error on my...

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Ali S: Great content. Consider improving the video quality, a tripod, and maybe even a video class to do some editing to go back and forth with the close-ups. I believe this would allow your knowledge and expertise to shine even more! Thank you for sharing!

Craig Smith: I bought the tung oil and 1/2 & 1/2 a week ago maybe 2 from amazon brushed on the tung oil on the ends no problem. We then started to brush on the half and half and the odor well was like rancid nuts I would say , My wife had me re-sand and we tried again same bad odor from the 1/2 & 1/2 . So did not smell like citrus , and we have orange trees and grapefruit trees along with lemon trees. I did contact amazon but wanted to know what you think has gone wrong. We tossed out the half and half . Again the pure Tung oil was great. any thoughts? thank you. I would also like to know if it would be a problem for the butcher block top now that I need to order more 1/2 & 1/2 and I could not sand it all the way...

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Nice work. I'm doing a similar project, but with Variathane Gloss spray because I thought a spray would yield a smoother finish. I've applied 2 coats and the project has been drying 2 days. There is very slight "orange peel" in the poly so I'm wanting to sand and have 800, 1000, 1500 and even 2000 grit sand paper. Variathane recommends 3 to 5 coats. I'm wondering, for the smoothest finish, should I sand between now, spray coat 3, sand, coat 4, sand, spray final but this time use the steel wool you use, or sand with perhaps 1500 or 2000 and then use steel wool, if it's even needed with such fine finishing sand paper. I'm hoping the sanding won't dull the Gloss or is there a buffing technique you might...

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A wooden countertop provides an elegant design touch for any kitchen, so it's important to waterproof the wood to protect and maintain its beauty. While there are a variety of finishes available for use on other wood furnishing -- polyurethanes for flooring or varnishes for tables, for example -- a food preparation area will look better if it's not hidden beneath a protective film that feels like hard plastic. The ideal waterproof protection is a food-safe oil or wax finish that adds no flavors, scents or toxins to your food.

Wipe the top surface and edges of the countertop with a tack cloth to collect any dust or food particles prior to applying the oil finish.

Slip on a pair of rubber gloves that are suitable for kitchen cleaning.

Pour a generous amount of linseed oil onto a clean, lint-free cotton cloth. Food grade linseed oil can be found at many grocery or health-food stores, drugstores and retail paint outlets. Painter's wiping cloth is supplied by the...

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If you have children and would like to have wood without worries about damage, why not go for wood that already has plenty of "damage" already? Reclaimed wood like this large piece of timber already has gouges, spots, marks and stains, so new ones are of little consequence. But there is another great idea in this photo. The sink is positively enormous, allowing up to three children to wash up at the same time. The back of the sink forms a seamless backsplash, with soap dishes attached. Such a large sink keeps splashes contained, and the placement of the soap completely within the sink means no dripping on the counter as you reach back and forth between faucet and soap.

Architect Rob Kelley of Piedmont, California, who designed this bathroom, uses different finishes depending on the client's desired level of maintenance. For this client, he used a beeswax, lemon oil and mineral oil combination from Natchez Solutions. This type of finish resists water quite well, although you...

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Position the sink face-down on the countertop, making sure the space at the front and back is even. Draw a pencil guide line around the sink (Image 1).

Measure the depth of the lip of the sink, then mark a second pencil line at this distance inside the first, all the way around (Image 2).

Use a drill with a flat bit or auger bit to make a hole in each corner of the sink position, inside the inner guide line. Make sure that the drill is at precise right angles to the countertop, so that you make an accurate hole (Image 3).

Cut around the inside guide line with a jigsaw, using the holes as starting points (Image 4). Support the countertop underneath as you cut.

Check that the sink fits well in the hole. Seal the cut edges of the countertop with a preservative primer (Image...

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Wood Countertop in the Kitchen

FAQ from readers about my counters

I have had quite a few readers recently ask me about my wood counters in my old house and if they were difficult to take care of. I love that this kitchen was designed before my blogging days, but it still gets a lot of questions I haven’t officially answered in a post!

So today, I’m going to finally answer the most common reader questions about my wood counters.

Just like I did with The Truth About White Slipcovers post or How I Keep my Stainless Steel Appliances Clean, or Do I Have a Maid (and other questions about open shelving), I like to tell you about my own experiences so you can decide for yourself if you think something is too difficult, or worth having in your own home.

In other words, I loved my wood counters, like my stainless appliances and white slipcovers and even my open shelving, but they may not be the best choice for everyone.

Disclaimer: Not all...

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Cooks who do a lot of preserving, or keep several types of flour, rice, or other dangerously similar-looking ingredients around the kitchen in plastic or glass jars, need a practical way to identify the contents of all those vessels. The Brother P-Touch label maker—which prints and slices off labels quickly, in your choice of 14 fonts, and even on multiple lines—does the job admirably. But that's not the only reason, or even the most important reason, this device should be on your gift list. The real reason is that, for a certain type of organization freak whom you probably know (or are), labeling everything, from bottles of homemade syrups and dressings to recipe files to kitchen cabinets, is a particularly habit-forming kind of fun. Of course, a label maker is handy for all sorts of non-kitchen-related tasks, too, so there's no need to be prescriptive—just let the fastidious recipient's imagination run...

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