How should I insulate my garage roof if I want to use the garage as a workshop?


I have read a lot about proper insulation and ventilation, including some posts on this site, but none adequately answer my questions.

My goal is to operate an electric heat source in the winter and have ~60 °F temperature maintained when working in the garage. In the summer, I think we will typically leave the garage door open, however it would be nice to one day have it stay cool in there if it's 90-100 °F outside.

This is in Ohio, where we typically have temps of 0-95 °F throughout the year, it can also get pretty humid.

I do not have soffit vents, but there is a ridge vent on the roof already installed. I do not want to drywall nor do I want to build a ceiling.

As you see in the photos I have already insulated the walls with R15 Batt installation. Now I'm unsure where to go from here for roof 2x6's. I bought some radiant barrier R11-equivelent insulation (seen in photos as well), which I was planning to...

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Last Updated August 05, 2015 17:09 PM

I have a 2 story split-foyer ranch. The bedrooms upstairs are above the garage and noticeably colder than the rest of the house (I live in Connecticut so winters get pretty cold).

There's no climate control in the garage, and the garage is partially underground on one side and entirely underground on the other (house is built into a hill). The foundation is exposed on both sides, bare concrete probably 4 feet high and sticking into the garage about 1-2 feet.

The garage doors are insulated and weather sealed, and I have two windows on the side of the garage that's partially above ground. The ceiling is finished so I can't see what kind of insulation we have between the garage and the floors above. I do know that sound doesn't carry very well, except for things hitting the surface (or vibrating like the garage door opener).

Obviously it'll be colder in the garage than in the house, but I'm looking for...

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Last Updated October 06, 2017 13:21 PM

I'm in the process of a few projects in the garage, including raising the ceiling and insulating with spray foam. This has left me with a fair amount of leftover fiberglass batts.

There is a room above 70% of the garage (minus the front), and 2 walls are attached to the house (2x6 framing with vapour barrier, fiberglass batts and drywall). The remaining exterior wall is 2x4 framing with vinyl siding. The garage door is also insulated.

I am considering drywalling this wall since I like the look and I'm already re-drywalling the entire ceiling anyway. I'm located in southeastern Ontario, temperature typically anywhere from -30C to +30C (-22 to 86F). The garage is not a conditioned space.

Is there any downside to putting in insulation and drywall? Anything wrong with just drywall?

Has anyone that's done this actually seen a benefit (eg more stable temperature)? Keep in mind there's...

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By Mark J. Donovan

See what insulation R-values are required for the various parts of your home, based upon the climate region you live in.

Wear Protective Clothing

When insulating your garage walls always wear full length clothing, a mask, and a pair of goggles, as fiberglass insulation can be irritating to your eyes, throat and skin. Follow the tips in this article on what to wear when installing fiberglass insulation.

Pay Attention to the Little Details

Also it is important to keep in mind when insulating a garage to do a neat job, such that there are no gaps in the insulation. Much of your efforts and money spent on insulation will be wasted if your finished insulated garage is peppered with small un-insulated gaps. Consider using a insulating foam sealant to seal the small gaps.

Also consider replacing the garage doors with insulated garage doors or insulating the garage doors, as garage doors can be a major source of heat loss. See...

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Two of the core questions an auditor asks during a home inspection are, “Where is the thermal boundary?” and “Where is the nearest Dunkin’ Donuts?” (Those two questions run neck and neck.) The thermal boundary is the demarcation line for energy movement between the unconditioned exterior and conditioned interior air. This can be a bit fuzzy sometimes and one part of that fuzziness can be the garage door on an attached garage.

To insulate or not to insulate?

It’s odd when I find myself advising clients not to insulate, but that’s the case here. Normally, I can’t pile enough of the stuff in your house. Given my druthers, I’d probably spray 10 inches of closed-cell spray foam over your new dome house, add ventilation, and call it a day. But most folks are sticklers for windows and doors, so that won’t work.

The question of garage doors comes up mostly in relation to attached garages with a finished room overhead. The arrangement integrates living and utility...

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The garage door insulation kits are a waste of money and will not do as well as getting the material separately and fitting it properly.

First, measure the depth of Styrofoam you need. My door needed 1" and it would fit perfectly snug inside the panels. I think most of those kits come with 3/4" so that it will be easier to install, and then they also give you a plastic cover that you snap over it loosely. I think this is a waste also. The Styrofoam insulation already has a shiny surface that is easy to keep clean. The only benefit I can see to the plastic is as a better armor if you are going to throw sparks at it or something.

Cut the Styrofoam to be just a little bit wide (on the narrow side) and then carefully snap it in. My double door needed 16 panels and I didn't break any of them getting it in. It's beautiful and fits way better than using one of those kits, and I probably saved a bit, too. I needed four 4x8' panels of foam, and had four bits left over.


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Should you insulate your garage? Insulation can make a space more comfortable, and some people do consider their garages to be an extension of their home. If the garage is only used to store a vehicle, insulation may not be necessary as vehicles are designed to be unaffected by temperature. However, if you use your garage for other activities, it might be a good idea.

Image Credit

Protection and comfort

There are several reasons that insulating the garage makes sense. If children use it as a play area, items sensitive to temperature are stored there, or the home heating system is located there, insulation will make a significant contribution to contentment in your home.

If you go ahead and insulate your garage or are building a home and incorporating the garage and its insulation into the design, you are making the garage part of what is called the home’s protected volume.

Protected volume

Incorporating the...

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I think people especially builders ( but not all I must add) have this misconception that it's ok if you break the old corrugated roofing sheets off the roof or the asbestos side panels, this still contains chrysotile ( white Asbestos) ok it only contains approx 10/15% but it's still Asbestos, yes spraying with water will help keep dust down, because this is hydrophilic,but if it has been laced with crocidolite (blue asbestos) this is hydrophobic,so breaking sheets with this in them,whether or not wetting methods are used will not help.and I have found this myself many times.
Correct procedure is to cut bolts/ screws ( no power tools) and to remove panels whole therefore reducing fibre realise while lowering the risk then double wrapped and sealed in 1000 gauge polythene. And labelled with an asbestos sack so people know what's inside.
Or just get the professionals in who deal with this day in day out, it's not as expensive as you think, shop around like you would do...

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Summer is a great time to think about insulating your garage doors. It’s good to do any time of year, and you can gain benefits during any season. We did this primarily for the winter, but it helps keep your garage cooler in hot weather too.

Why insulate garage doors?

Insulated garage doors accomplish at least three things. They will:

Keep the garage warmer in winter Keep the garage cooler in summer Help cut down road/street noise … and if you happen to be in a garage band, your neighbors will thank...
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The smallest size for a single garage is 8' x 16' which is a tight squeeze even with a small car.More popular sizes include 9' x 18' and 10' x 20'.The smallest size for a double garage is 16' x 16'.A typical family saloon e.g. Ford Mondeo is 4.724m long x 1.920m wide x 1.448m high (15'5" x 6'4" x 4'8").A typical small car e.g. Nissan Micra is 3.708m long x 1.778m wide x 1.422m high (12'2" x 5'8" x 4'7").A typical people carrier e.g. Fiat Ulysse is 4.445m long x 2.159m wide x 1.448m high (14'6" x 7'1" x 5'6").

Car sizes vary from model to model so we recommend that you check the size of your car before you order your garage.

Where should I locate my garage?

Ideally your garage should have a clear space at least 18" wide on all sides, if possible. This ensures easy access for both installation and future maintenance. In reality this is often not practical and at many sites it is not needed. A reduced clearance is often possible on one or two sides. If the...

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Your 1st house and you got cash to spare fixing a garage roof that ain't broken? Damn how times have changed!

Those roof boards are asbestos cement and of VERY little risk to anyone's health even when removing 'em and definitely not a cause for concern where they are. I'm a huge fan of EPDM and would definitely recommend it when you need a new roof, but I'd go with some of less costly suggestions above first, unless you have bottomless pockets and wanna line someone else's or boost the local economy that is.

Replace the necessary roofing bolts and perished seals, you'll most likely find the leaking ones are loose due to localised wet rot, probably 4" so knock a few 6" bolts into those joists after a good dose of a decent silicon sealant. Simply keep the roof free of moss and lichen (or Ivy) with a biocide and that roof will last for many a year to come. Insulate and board internally, jobs a good 'un for a few hundred notes.

When you say "workshop for motorbikes" & "2...

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[Summary]How To Insulate An Attached Garage You are here: House Improvements Home > Miscellaneous How To Insulate An Attached Garage Tools Required: utility knife sharp blades tape measure straight edge (4') step ladder Insulating an attached garage has some


How To Insulate An Attached Garage

You are here: House Improvements Home > Miscellaneous

How To Insulate An Attached Garage

Tools Required:

utility knife

sharp blades

tape measure

straight edge (4')

step ladder

Insulating an attached garage has some special considerations that you must address differently then a unattached garage. The most important issue is that attached garages must have a system in place, to keep carbon monoxide (CO2) from a running vehicle inside the garage ,from filtering through the walls and ceiling into the house. This is a building code violation and a huge safety risk to you and your family! The...

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One of the best methods you can use if you want to regulate the temperature of your garage is to insulate the garage roof. If your garage is attached to your house, you will notice a big difference in your home’s temperature as well. Regulating temperature has positive effects on your cooling and heating costs. The task of insulating a garage roof is not hard to complete if you follow a few tips and hints. Here is a guide on how you can insulate the garage roof in a few easy steps.

Step 1 – Choose the Type of Insulation

The first thing you need to do is choose the type of insulation you are going to use. There are two main types of insulation appropriate for use in garage roofs. Nontheless, first determine if you can buy a pre-composed insulation kit suitable for your garage. Purchasing a kit will save you both money and time. If you cannot find an insulation kit you need to choose which type of insulation to buy. The first main type of insulation is foam sheathing....

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To get the most bang for your buck when insulating a garage, only add insulation to shared walls between the garage and the house. If your garage seems to be a significant source of air leaks, consider insulating all four walls and the ceiling.

Add fiberglass batts or rigid foam between studs and joists. According to the Department of Energy's Energy Star website, rigid foam offers about twice the insulating effectiveness per inch as fiberglass, though foam is much more expensive. You can combine these materials or use multiple layers, but avoid packing insulation too tightly--this reduces the effectiveness.

If the studs are covered by drywall, consider using spray foam or loose fill cellulose. These materials are professionally installed by contractors who create small holes in the drywall to provide room for installation. Liquefied foam is sprayed into the walls, where it expands to fill the cavity. Cellulose is made from shredded newspaper that is blown into a...

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If you have a room directly above the garage, handling the heating or air conditioning – depending on the weather and location – becomes a huge challenge and needs special care. Let’s take a look at some of the major reasons why garage roof insulation is important.

Greater exposed area

The first and probably the biggest problem with a garage is the increased surface area that is exposed to outside temperatures. For example, your dining room may be surrounded by other room walls on three sides with just one wall exposed to the outside, whereas a room above the garage is exposed to the outside air through the garage floor, three walls and a ceiling. This means that if your garage is not sufficiently insulated, there will be huge conductive heat losses. Even if you have insulation installed, if it is not properly done there will still be heat loss. For example, if you have roof rafters in your attic that are not insulated adequately, money is literally leaking out in terms of...

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Chris Crosskey02/02/2011 17:11:1415 forum posts

Hi folks,

The first question I asked on here had a pleasingly high signal to noise ratio in the responses, so I thought I'd wrack your brains rather than ask on general building fora.

I've got a sectional concrete garage at the bottom of my garden that I want to convert into a workshop. Currently my stuff is in a 7x11 foot shed I built at my folks place many years ago. Now that the chaos of my moving out is settling (for me anyway) I'd like to make it a priority to get my workshop transferred.... also the folks want the shed....

I'm happy I can damp-proof the floor easily enough (DPM and screed) and reckon that using a polythene membrane on the walls should sort that out but I'm a bit at a loss as to insulation. For choice I'd use 25mm polystyrene behind hardboard on battens on the walls and 50mm ditto or 100mm loft insualtion for the roof. But where to I put the membranes in the wall?... between...

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Between fiberglass, cellulose, and foam, there are numerous ways to insulate a post-frame building. But how to insulate a pole barn based on your needs is the key. Here are five tips on how to insulate a pole barn to best fit your needs.

Whether you are building a garage to store your tractor, or constructing a small “man cave” in your backyard, how you prevent unwanted air movement into and out of your building is an important consideration.

After all, the decision will dictate the heating and cooling characteristics, noise levels, and the type of ventilation in your building.

Insulation is important because it separates indoor and outdoor elements. Keeping the heat out when it is hot — and in when it is cold — is what keeps you comfortable in your home, and saves you cash.

Uncontrolled air flow can create moisture and condensation. Over time, it can cause deterioration. It can damage valuables stored inside, too, by causing rust, mold, and...

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The key component of Colonel John "Hannibal" Smith's favorite saying, "I love it when a plan comes together!" is the plan. Take that to heart and you will spare yourself a lot of trouble when building a garage. You will need to plan the layout of the new garage within your lot, plan the size, shape, and look of your garage, plan the materials needed, plan the subcontractors, plan the permits and inspections, plan the zero-cost (beer compensated) workers, plan the timetables, plan the weather... well you get the picture. If planning is not your cup of tea, then maybe you should just write a check for ~$25k to get it done by a crew of folks who will do a fine job without you learning a damn thing.

So step 1 is simply this: do the legwork and get a plan together. Easier said than done.

Key areas to consider:
1. How big do you want the garage to be?
2. How big can the garage be (city ordinances!?!)?
3. Where and how many doors and windows?
4. What type...

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