How to frame a wall around existing exterior door

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Thanks for the picture & diagram updates, your initial question was a little unclear to me. You'll have to move the door in order for it to open more than 90-degrees & to flat upon the wall.

Move the door, its jamb & threshold inside to be flush with the new stud wall's drywall finished surface elevation for a full door swing. Then, extend the door jamb (sides & top) out to the exterior wall & re-apply the exterior trim. This provides a good exterior recess & overhang to protect the door & threshold from weather & spiders will love it.

Additionally, since your door will now be mounted to your interior stud wall instead of the very & completely solid foundation wall. You'll want to solidify the stud wall & attach it to the door's existing framing with a toe-nailed or toe-screwed 2x4 bridging connector. This will also assist greatly with the jamb extensions & their seamless...

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Framing a basement. I have a an exterior door that is set in the poured foundation. I'm building my wall that runs parallel to foundation that has the existing door and is ~2-4" from the foundation. How do I frame this opening? Of particular concern, if I from perpendicular from the wall to the in-swing door, it would seem that I wouldn't be able to open the door more than 85-90 degrees.

Thanks for the picture & diagram updates, your initial question was a little unclear to me. You'll have to move the door in order for it to open more than 90-degrees & to flat upon the wall.

Move the door, its jamb & threshold inside to be flush with the new stud wall's drywall finished surface elevation for a full door swing. Then, extend the door jamb (sides & top) out to the exterior wall & re-apply the exterior trim. This provides a good exterior recess & overhang to protect the door & threshold from weather & spiders will love it.

Additionally, since your door will now be...

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Building a solid frame for an entrance door is a little more involved than framing interior doors, but the process involves many of the same materials, tools and principles.

Measure your new door, and mark its dimensions on the sole plate (the 2 x 4 that forms the base of the wall frame) and surrounding studs. Next, mark the rough opening for your door frame, which should be 1 inch wider and 1/2 to 1 inch taller than your door unit to allow for shimming and caulking. Finally, measure and mark spaces for two 2 x 4 studs on each side of your door frame. Note that existing wall studs may already be in the proper place, or you may need to remove studs that fall within your rough opening.

Measure the height from sole plate to top plate (the 2 x 4 that forms the top of the wall frame), and cut two 2 x 4 studs to match. Position these "king" studs using the outermost marks on either side of your rough opening. Check the studs with a level, and then nail diagonally...

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Before You Begin: Examine the Situation

Once you've determined the location for a new entry door, check for obstacles in the wall. Often a quick look from the basement or crawlspace will tell you what's hidden inside the wall above. But expect the unexpected when cutting into a wall and work carefully to avoid damaging utility lines.

Water pipes or electrical cables can often be moved without a great deal of difficulty, but check with a plumber or electrician first. Drainpipes and heating or air-conditioning ducts are difficult to move; if one is in the way, you may have to relocate the doorway.

Also determine what sort of stairway you will need outside. By looking at an existing door's bottom in relation to the house's siding, you can tell how high the stairway will need to be. Consult manufacturer's instructions for the correct width and height of the rough opening you will frame. The method shown here minimizes drywall work.

Bonus: How to...

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First, let's define a few terms. A king stud, is a full length stud, usually 92 1/4", that forms the outer part of the frame for a door or window. A jack stud, which I call a trimmer, is a shorter stud that supports the header above a door or window. A cripple is a short stud between the header and the top plate, or under a window between the bottom plate and the sill.

The header transfers the vertical load above a window or door opening to the trimmers. In your situation the load may not be significant since the shed is most likely single story. The 2006 International Residential Code, in Table R502.5(1), says that the maximum span for a header consisting of two 2x4s (or one 4x4) is 3' 6"; for two 2x6s (or one 4x6) it is 5' 5"; and for two 2x8s (or one 4x8) it is 6' 10". In your case with a 6 foot door, you should use a 4x8 header.

The rough opening for doors is generally 2 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the nominal door size. Thus if you have a 2668 door, meaning...

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Interior and exterior walls consist of vertical studs attached between a bottom plate — referred to as a sill — and a double top plate. The double top plate provides load support for ceiling joists or rafters. When you frame a wall with a door opening, it’s necessary to include a header across the span of the opening for load support. Short, cripple studs between the header and the top plate ensure support above the door. Specifications from a local building department determine the size of the lumber and spacing of the studs and cripples. Many builders prefer to frame walls flat — known as a box frame — and raise them into place.

Layout

Measure the length of the wall at layout marks on the subfloor or measure between existing walls. Cut a piece of sill plate and top plate to this length, using a circular saw.

Place the sill and top plates side by side on edge. Ensure the ends are even. Start at one end and mark the layout for studs — every 16 or 24 inches —...

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DEAR TIM: I own a summer cabin that’s been in my family for generations. My wife and I decided to make it our full-time home. It needs lots of work that I intend to do myself. One of the projects is relocating the front door. Is there any magic with respect to framing a door in an existing wall? What are a few of the biggest mistakes you see happen on jobs when a person installs a new front door? I’ll be using a pre-hung door made by a major manufacturer. Rick B., Bridgton, ME

DEAR RICK: I’m your next door neighbor over here in New Hampshire and within a mile of my own home here on Lake Winnisquam there must be fifty or more summer cabins that are vacant eight months out of the year. I’ll bet you and your wife will enjoy the solitude of the new home.

I looked at the excellent photo you sent to me and it appears that it’s going to be a fairly straightforward modification. The first thing that comes to mind is snow load. I see that you’ve got a fairly flat roof section...

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Widening of a door frame can greatly change the way your room looks. You can widen your door frame to install double doors. You can also add windows alongside your newly widened door to allow more light to enter your home. If you have a backyard patio, a wider door creates a seamless passage between the outdoors and your house.

Things you need

Phillips screwdriver

Utility knife

Wide putty knife

Measuring tape

Chalk

Drywall saw

Door

Circular saw

Carpenter's level

Remove your exterior door from the door frame. Use a Phillips screwdriver to detach the screws on the hinges of the door. Ask a friend to help you hold the door as you unscrew the hinges.

Cut into your current exterior doorway with a utility knife. You should cut where the inside of the doorway meets the door frame.

Pry the door frame off the wall. Slowly pry along the sides of the door frame with a putty knife. Using a wide putty...

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The following definitions are extracted from AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S.2/A440-11, NAFS — North American Fenestration Standard/Specification for windows, doors, and skylights

Adjustable — accessible without major reconstruction of the window, door, TDD, SSP, roof window, or unit skylight to bring the parts of the product to a true or more effective relative position.

Air leakage — the flow of air that passes through fenestration products.

Airspace — the space between adjacent layers in a multi-layer glazing system.

Architectural terrace door — a door primarily used for terrace access in high-rise applications/buildings.
Note: Architectural terrace doors consist of one or more glazed panels contained within one master frame. The operable panels will be hinged on either jamb and can swing either to the exterior or interior (not both). The door is not used as a primary entrance door because of the nature of the sill/threshold design used to meet performance...

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Door prices vary far more than for most home improvement purchases, and consumers may be quoted widely different prices for the same brand and model door from different retailers. This price variation can be significant, regardless of manufacturer. Typical costs:A plain front entry door starts at about $50-$250, depending on size and materials, or $200-$700 with installation. More decorative and durable mid-range front doors can cost $200-$2,000, or $400-$3,000 with installation. A deluxe front door with double doors opening to the center and/or glass side panels and an overhead transom as well as decorative art glass and other stylish touches can cost $2,000-$8,000 for just the door materials, or $3,000-$12,000 or more with installation.Sliding glass doors (one fixed panel, one sliding; sometimes called gliding or bypass doors) start at about $300-$800 for a basic 5'-6' wide set, or $600-$2,000 with installation. More durable, energy efficient or decorative sliding...
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