How to run drywall backer parallel to I-joist?

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I prefer the on-flat for the best fire sealing & another couple of inches for wall positioning. This can be done, without 6" screws or using easily split 2x2's. By, drilling a small hole, the size of the screw's Threads, through the 2x4. Then, drill a bigger hole, the size of the screw's Head, halfway into the smaller hole or halfway through the stud to sink 3" screws.

The vertical 2x4 install is fine by just being screwed to the bottom of the I-joist. You can also install an I-joist webbing filler or backer to then screw-in both the top & bottom of the 2x4. This, is a bit overkill, which is absolutely not a bad thing, but it would only be holding up drywall that is also supported by the drywall upon the wall below...ceilings must always be the first to get drywall.

You might also see short bridging 2x4's perpendicular to the joists that span to the next joist. This is completely acceptable since the drywall of the wall below will still seal the ceiling seams on both...

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Solve all moisture problems first

Finishing a portion of a basement is an inexpensive way to gain valuable space for a family room, game room or other use. The big question is how to finish the foundation walls. We'll assume that you have either a poured concrete or a cement block masonry wall. With either surface, the finishing options are the same.

Before beginning any work, you must determine whether your basement has any moisture problems. If your foundation walls are only damp on humid summer days, fine—you're good to go with the methods we recommend. But if you have any problems with standing or leaking water in the spring or during heavy rains, you've got some “prework” to do.

Fixes usually are as simple as adding or repairing gutters and downspouts or adjusting the grade to direct runoff water away from the house. But serious water problems may call for drastic measures like interior or exterior drain tiling, or exterior waterproofing, which could...

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To ensure that the crawl space has adequate cross ventilation, many codes call for 1 sq. ft. of vent for every 150 sq. ft. of under-floorarea. As a general rule, cutting a standard vent 2 ft. from each comer and one every 6 ft. on at least three sides of the building will meet code requirements. Structurally, it is not a good idea to put a vent underneath an ex terior exit, and for aesthetic reasons most builders try to leave vents out of the front of the building.

Bridging

In residential construction, bridging (blocking joists at midspan) has pretty much become a thing of the past. It has been found that bridging provides little extra stability to a floor that is sheathed with ply wood, and codes in many areas no longer require it on joists 2x12 or smaller. Bridging can consist of sol id blocking or wood or metal cross bridging. Solid blocking, cut from joist material, is the fastest to in stall. When bridging is called for, it is spaced every 8 ft. or less midspan...

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Hadoop can be configured with a number of schedulers and the default is the FIFO scheduler.

FIFO Schedule behaves like this.

Scenario 1: If the cluster has 10 Map Task capacity and job1 needs 15 Map Task, then running job1 takes the complete cluster. As job1 makes progress and there are free slots available which are not used by job1 then job2 runs on the cluster.

Scenario 2: If the cluster has 10 Map Task capacity and job1 needs 6 Map Task, then job1 takes 6 slots and job2 takes 4 slots. job1 and job2 run in parallel.

To run jobs in parallel from the start, you can either configure a Fair Scheduler or a Capacity Scheduler based on your requirements. The mapreduce.jobtracker.taskscheduler and the specific scheduler parameters have to be set for this to take effect in the mapred-site.xml.

Edit: Updated the answer based on the comment from...

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Hello All,

Forgive me if this question has already been asked and answered. I can't seem to find what I'm looking for although I don't doubt it's somewhere here.

I'm about to close on a 23 year old home with hardwood flooring. They installed it "correctly", being perpendicular to the joists, but it's parallel to the windows, and is laid with the short walls in the rooms.

This is on the first floor, the sub is plywood, and the house has an unfinished basement. So my plan is to block the joists and replace the tired, ugly flooring with something new run perpendicular to the windows, but parallel to the 2x10 joists.

There is a steel I going through the middle of the house. The span is about 14 feet from foundation to I. How many rows of blocks should I install, and where? I keep finding info on how to block (which is not exactly rocket science), but nobody seems to talk about how many rows need to go in. One in the middle? Two divided evenly? Three? Is...

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Even "being as careful as you could" with the framing, you'll have problems with the lumber "moving". It's the "nature of the beast" with the process of growing, to milling, to "end user" in this day and time of forestry. Again, laying the drywall down is more "forgiving" on wood studs. The stability gained by the installation of drywall MAY be factored in when a home is "structurally" designed, I can't say for sure. It's more of an added benefit (is my guess) as to the overall advantage........ You mention lateral bracing/load bearing walls, post some pics if you're not sure on that. Someone with more knowledge than myself in that dept. will reply.

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OK, so I've just read the 'Hanging Drywall Overhead' article and have reread the 'Perpendicular or parallel?' paragraph several times... but here's the thing; I have a combination dining room/living room ceiling that is 12.5 ft by 25 ft with the joists spanning the width which means I could board the ceiling parallel to the joists with 14 ft sheets and wind up with no butt joints. So, the only argument against parallel that concerns me in this case, is the potential for sagging because of the strength difference... Will 1/2" board sag on 16" centers if hung parallel? How does drywall wind up being stronger in the long direction? Cheers and thanks in...

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Re: Floor Framing. Why Put A Joist Under A Non-loadbearing Wall?

Bearing or none bearing, I always use a double if that wall span is the whole room length or if there is a certain situation. Non bearing partitions which run perpendicular to floor ceiling framing do require extra floor framing per 2009 RIC R602.10.6(1) if there is a framing member located above that partition.
Like Andy and Lone said, floor joists must meet strength and stiffness requirements. Strength requirements depend on the load to be carried. Stiffness requirements put an arbitrary control on deflection under load and let's not forget that
Stiffness is also important in limiting,that bouncy feeling when you...

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