How to use thinner insulation than the steel studs?

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Cut batts to the appropriate height.

You should have purchased insulation of the appropriate width, but you'll have to cut it to size for every space you want to fill, in terms of height. Lay the insulation out, then carefully use your utility knife to cut through the face (if you've purchased faced insulation). It's kind of hard to cut through the insulation itself, which has the consistency of tenacious cotton candy, but you can pull it apart once you get it started.

When you get your insulation home, keep it wrapped up until you're ready to use it. Cutting fiberglass insulation sends lots of little fiberglass particulate up into the air, which can cause allergic reactions and breathing problems. It's also extremely itchy, and can cause rashes in some people with sensitive skin. Never touch fiberglass batting with your bare hands and always wear breathing equipment when handling it. If you come into contact with fiberglass insulation, don’t scrub your hands or face with...
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When you are powder coating, you will need an oven to cure the finish. You only have so many pre-made oven options at your disposal and they all limit you to smaller parts. A household oven or even a toaster oven are great for smaller parts but you will always be limited by the oven size. If you are interested in a smaller oven, check out the original oven article:

Powder Coating Ovens

. If you want to start powder coating some large parts, you will either need to spend a lot of money or make your own. In this article, I will be focusing on how to build your own powder coating oven. It may seem intimidating if you have never worked with metal but with the information available on the internet, you can easily tackle this job, save money and have a huge powder coating oven. No welding was required to build the following powder coating oven. This is Part 1 of a 2 part powder coating oven build. See

How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II


You can build your...

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Open-cell spray foam has an R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. of about R-3.7 per inch, while closed-cell spray foam has an R-value that may be as high as R-6.5 per inch. If you want to install spray foam in a stud wall, and price is no object, then it would seem to make sense to specify closed-cell spray foam, right?

Not necessarily.

Dense spray foam is installed differently

Builders and homeowners are often surprised to learn that there isn’t much difference in whole-wall R-value between a stud wall insulated with open-cell spray foam and closed-cell spray foam.

To understand why, we need to start by discussing the “trimmability” of cured spray foam.

Closed-cell spray foam is so dense that it is difficult to trim. That’s why installers of closed-cell spray foam never fill a framing cavity completely. In a 2x4 wall, the installer will usually stop at a maximum...

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Steel Studs Require Exterior Insulation to Avoid Thermal Bridging

Bird's-Eye View

This steel-stud wall would perform poorly in most climates. To prevent thermal bridging through the studs, steel-framed walls need thick exterior foam sheathing.

Termite-proof framing

From a distance, an unsheathed, light-gauge steel home frame just looks like a shiny version of a stick-built frame. The studs, headers, and rafters are placed in much the same configuration. The parts of a steel frame are cold-formed channels of galvanized steel of various widths and thicknesses. Because components are fastened with screws instead of nails, and because of steel's inherent strength and consistency compared to wood, this type of framing can be a durable choice in areas that see high winds, severe termite problems, or regular seismic activity. Because of its dismal thermal performance, however, steel framing is usually a poor choice for a green home.

See below for:

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