How to wire a swamp cooler 2 speed motor


I wished the pdf offered more details, but you can get the motor running based on the NEC color code for electrical wiring (USA). Certain colors are reserved for specific functions:

1) Green or Yellow/Green is always Earth ground.

2) White is always Neutral and carries the return current from the motor or any load. It may have a few volts on it when the motor is running, but neutral is connected to ground at the breaker panel so any voltage on neutral wire is low.

3) Black is normally the main 120vac power feed, but I do not know if black, red or orange is low or high-speed. I would use an ohm meter on the black, red, and orange wires and compare the resistance to the neutral wire before connecting to power.

4) Several ohms of resistance is typical for a motor winding. High resistance may indicate motor status or the connection for a start capacitor. I saw no mention of a start capacitor in the pdf. A safe power connection to start with would be the...

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hello friends , i need to attach a regulator switch to my swamp cooler( evaporative cooler) but i don't know that which wire of cooler's motor(which i think is split phase induction type motor) has what function according to their colors(according to indian standards).....all i know is that there are 4 wires coming out of motor - red,black,blue and white.....2 of them might correspond to 2 different speeds of motor,while other 2 must be neutral and ground......

1.but which color wire has what operation??????

2.also in my regulator switch i have 4 terminals,one is for input,and others for 3 outputs....but what i think is that i need to connect only 2 wires of my motor to these 3output terminals(as motor must have other 2 wires for neutral and ground....) what function does this extra output terminal in my regulator switch has??...

3.does it corresponds to pump connection???? and if yes should i leave it unconnected as i have a separate switch already installed only...

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I have a typical roof cooler with a two speed motor. The thing has never been wired right, with it only working on low and one switch controlling both the motor and the pump. I was going to be fixing that; running new wires up to the thing so it can be controlled properly.

The motor on it has "4 plug ins" One for ground, the neutral, and two for low and high. My question is about how the speed is controlled by the switches. Does it run on high by giving juice to just the high plug in, or does it run on high by giving juice to both the high and low plug in at the same time?
If the former, then a simple 3 way switch would contol it, and if the latter then I would use a 2 way switch to contol it,...

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Changing the fan pulley from a 10 to a 14 would slow the speed down and reduce the amount of air flow. Going from a 10 to a smaller size fan pulley will overload the 1/2 hp motor. You'd have to go to a 3/4 hp motor if you wanted to reduce the size of the fan pulley. Did you replace the old cooler with one that has a smaller CFM (cubic feet per minute) flow? A lower CFM will mean lower air flow. The size of the cooler (in CFM) should be equal to the square footage of your home x 4. If your home is 1500 sq ft, you should have at least a 6,000 CFM unit. Regardless of the CFM of a swamp cooler, they don't cool well if the dew point is above 50 deg. They say 55, but in my experience, 50 is the upper limit). They also don't cool very will if the outside temp is above about 110 deg regardless of the dew point. The dryer the air, the more effective they are up to the limits (110F temp or lower and 50F dew point or...

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I've been considering building a controller board for a swamp (evaporative) cooler to interface with any standard programmable thermostat.

I've been having a hard time finding information on what voltages a thermostat works with, but I've been able to determine the basics (I think):

Power feed is 24v A/C from air conditioner
Some thermostats support 2-stage air conditioning (a two stage compressor setup)
--I don't know when the two stages kick on, or if both are active at the same time; I am assuming that the second stage comes on when extra cooling is needed, but it may be for a fancy start-up sequence
A single wire is sent to the air conditioner to turn on "cooling"
A single wire is sent to turn on circulation fans
Power is constant from the signal line when the feature (cooling or fan) is turned on
--According to here

And how a Swamp Cooler controller is wired:

Here is my thought:
Would need to have a 120v a/c...

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Run the Romex cable from the electrical control panel where the circuit breaker will be located to the swamp coolers electrical make up box. You may have to remove a "knock out" hole blank in the panel box and the swamp coolers electrical make up box.

Use the screwdriver and wire pliers to "knock out" the blank and install the box connector into the hole. Use the wire pliers to tighten the nut on the inside of the panel box and the swamp coolers make up electrical box.

Strip the outer insulation of the Romex cable back six inches on both ends of the cable assembly with the pocketknife. Insert both ends of the cable in through the box connector. You will have to tighten the cable clamp with the screwdriver so the Romex will be held securely in place.

Terminate the swamp coolers make up electrical box first by stripping the black and white wires back one inch from the end. Use the wire pliers and twist the black wire from the cable to the black wire in the...

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Evaporative Cooling (Swamp Cooler)


If you have a window mounted, side-discharge unit, simply plug it into the wall, connect the water line outside the home, and use the panel mounted switches to operate your swamper. No other wiring is needed.

Residential wiring is uncomplicated and straight forward, however, if you are uncomfortable working with electricity, contact someone who has had experience in this area.

If you are installing a roof mounted unit, you will need controls conveniently located within the home, and a multi-conductor cable running from the control switch up to the unit on the roof. For a two-speed motor, five conductors will be required; for a single-speed unit, only four conductors are needed.

Below is a typical six-position manual switch for a roof mounted unit. The blue-vertical line represents the wall where the control switch is mounted. Three conductors from the circuit breaker panel are on the...

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DEAR MIKE: A while ago, you wrote about an evaporative cooler problem. I have a different problem with my evaporative cooler. The pump works fine, but the cooler doesn't blow any air out. I assume it is the motor, but I am not sure. -- Ryan C.

DEAR RYAN: Your blower problem may be the result of a bad motor, but before you replace it, check some obvious things.

We can assume that the power is on to the unit since the pump works. Remove the panels and filter pads to gain access to the blower (remember to turn off the power before you work on the unit).

The way the air is blown is pretty simple. The motor has a pulley attached to the end of its shaft. A belt (just like a fan belt from your car) revolves around this pulley. The belt is also attached to the fan assembly (most look like squirrel cages). As the motor turns the pulley, the belt turns and drives the fan assembly, which moves the air.

Before you replace the motor, check that the...

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Many of us will have a swamp cooler in our homes though not everyone will have them running properly in our homes. It can be difficult at times to work especially that if you don’t have the unit wired properly.

Having a swamp cooler in your home it could mean that the home is made easier because it will help cool down you rooms which is really great if you do live in a hotter climate which you need a lot of air conditioning.

How your swamp cooler works can be very easy to understand; your cooler works by taking in al air which is hot or otherwise and then it goes through watering pads and then that filters it to make the air cooler cooling down your home also.

Just say that you have installed your cooler then you want to make sure that it is working properly, you are going to have to check that the wiring has been installed correctly which some people do get often wrong so here is what you are going to need to wire your swamp cooler.

What you are...

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The swamp cooler needs a medium where the water can make contact with plenty of air in order to easily evaporate. This also happens in a humidifier in pretty much the same way, so I decided to use a replacement humidifier pad. I found a replacement humidifier pad at Home Depot for $13, so I got 2.

This step goes hand in hand with installing, or at least mocking up, the reservoir. I wanted the bottom pad to hang down inside the reservoir so there would be no splashing or dripping from the water falling into the reservoir. The water level will stay below the bottom of the pad, but it is shielded by the reservoir.

The pads are layers of expanded aliminum mesh stuck together adding up to about 1.5" thick. It's easy enough to bore a hole through the pad on the drill press for a screw in each top corner. I measured and marked the inside of the housing for where to mount my brackets, with the fans in place so I knew I had enough clearance. I used some larger angle brackets...

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The harsh climatic conditions have left us no choice but to devise the best means of creating a comfortable indoor environment. It is always good to bear in mind, the fact that the sole objective of having to install a swamp cooler is mainly for our comfort, in addition to the various benefits swamp coolers have over conventional air conditioning systems. It is highly advisable to have a swamp cooler professional guide you through the installation process, demonstrating the features to be set out. Either way, it would be of value to now get a rough idea of what a variable speed swamp cooler is all about, how it works, and some of the benefits it provides in order to get your answer to the frequently asked question, should you install a variable speed swamp cooler? Read the pointers below for some inspiration.

How a Variable Speed Swamp Cooler Works

With the other types of swamp coolers, flipping the power switch cranks up your equipment to full throttle from the...

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First thing I would do is pull the switch out (unwire it) and check your continuity through the switch at the various positions.

For example, in pump only, you should have continuity between the black wire (Hot in) and the pump wire, only. In pump + low speed you should have continuity between the black wire and the pump & low speed wire, only.

Check the continuities at each of the positions and confirm that the switch was correctly assembled at the factory. Just because it is "new" Does NOT mean that A: Some joker in Taiwain or China put it together right or B: Some joker in your town bought the switch and took back a defective switch which got put back in stock by the HD employees.

Once you know that is fine, the only other problem could be a miswire at a splice (such as where you connect to the motor or pump). By jumping AC line (Your black) to the individual line connections on the pump or fan motor you can confirm that the specific function works...

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Wiring diagram swamp cooler motor description :

Wiring diagram swamp cooler motor #1 #2 2 speed #4 #5 room #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #17 #18 #19

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Posted on Aug 03, 2017 by cuunuoc Team in Swamp

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Feb 21, 2015. The wiring of a swamp cooler is not complex but if you have never wired up a motor before, or feel uncomfortable with electricity, it is advisable . Yes, it is easy to control a swamp cooler with any thermostat. on his diagram and that it follows standard control procedures and I respectfully . Feb 21, 2015. After a swamp cooler switch the next best way to control a evaporative cooler is a thermostat controller. Click here to see how to wire up a . I have an evaporative cooler with 120VAC control that I want to switch. You'll want to connect the Y and C wires to the coil of the relay, so you . CONTROLLER OR EVAPORATIVE COOLER. Your Cooler Controller mounts into a standard 2" x 4" single gang electrical junction box.. With circuit breaker turned off, connect the thermostat wires as shown within the Electrical Diagram.Browse our selection of Dehumidifiers and find a product that fits your needs. Get free shipping, expert advice, and 30-day returns at

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OK, this issue started last summer...the swamp cooler is running, either HI or LO speed (two speed 1/2 HP motor), then just slows down, stops and buzzes. The motor may run fine for several days or weeks at a time. When I turn it off, try to re-start, it just buzzes. However, if I wait for an hour or longer, it will usually re-start. When starting it up, it seems to act like a capacitor start motor when the capacitor is not working properly. However, this motor does not have a capacitor and there is no capacitor in-line that I can find. The tag on the motor states it is a thermally protected motor, is it overheating and the thermal switch is kicking in? If so, why would it buzz? Hum......I am stumped......

Any ideas before I buy a new...

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An easy project for any handy Do-It-Yourselfer

Welcome to our Do-It-Yourselfer swamp cooler wiring article. If you arrived here directly from the internet, you may want to visit our other swamp cooler information and swamp cooler installation pages first, and then return here.

Swamp Cooler Installation: Ductwork

Swamp Cooler main page: All about the "Swamp"

Swamp Cooler Maintenance

Swamp Cooler Roof Installation

The best time to rough in your swamp cooler wiring and water line for your new cooler is after the holes are cut through the roof and ceiling, but before the ductwork is installed.

The attic will be relatively cool because of the natural ventilation of the heat exiting the roof. If the swamp cooler wiring can be done now without interfering with the ductwork installation, you will be a much happier Do-It-Yourselfer.

A 110 degree attic with blown in insulation is...

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At somewhere between 94 and 97 degrees, most coolers can't keep the pads wet enough to provide cooling. As a result, they stop working well. It is a problem for thousands and thousands of swamp coolers. It is a well documented fact supported here by the many successful
implementations of this idea, as well as other ideas aimed at keeping
the pads wet at high temperatures.

Some coolers and owners are able to do a better job of keeping the pads wet, but most lose effectiveness over time. The loss of performance may simply be due to incorrect pads, scaling of pads, undersized pump, or lack of maintenance. However, many of these units also suffer from design flaws and manufacturing defects such as: poorly placed or aligned output tubes, undersized pumps, water distribution channels that don't allow for good water flow, etc. It is for these problems that I wrote this instructable.

In addition, it is a verifiable fact that the effectiveness of a swamp cooler...

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