How two install hardwood floors in a long room with a subfloor that has a plane change in the middle?


Yeah, I would nix the sleeper idea too. Sand away or rent/buy a Power Planer or Belt Sander to take the hump down. Or, remove the subfloor rows (assuming they're running parallel with the hump) & replace them with thinner stock or plywood of the right thickness.

On the flip side, literally, if you have access to the floor structure from below you may find repairs needed there that can bring the old floor up. The old structure may very well be led-in into the bricks will be found to have crushed or sawed-down the bricks or mortar to explain the hump.

The joists would just need to be shimmed up & you may elect to do them all to fix other such deflection issues in the rest of the original house. Be cautious though because fixing the structure can cause cosmetic problems if you find big drops that need actual...

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My house is over 120 years old so I figured that an upstairs bedroom was long overdue for new flooring. Especially since it only had the old tongue & groove sub floor rather than nice hardwood or carpeting. In this Instructable I will go through the basic steps necessary to install a new hardwood floor. The tear up of the old subfloor took about 7 hours with the help of my wife. The installation of the new plywood subfloor took about another 4-5. The new hardwood I installed alone which took a weekend and a few hours on 3-4 weeknights. If you have someone to help through the entire project it could easily be done in a single weekend depending on whether you need to install a new subfloor or not.

I used the following tools & materials to complete this installation:
All costs are rounded up.
Pry Bars
Compound Miter Saw
Circular saw
Cordless drill
Pneumatic Floor Stapler with 2" Floor Staples $120 total - rented
18 Gauge Pneumatic...

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We first ran this article in 2010. It provides detailed instructions for installing hardwood flooring over a wood substructure. It chronicles tutorials for each step of the process, derived from our installation of 3/4 inch solid, tongue-and-groove Brazilian Walnut hardwoods in our own home!

At the bottom, we provide links to posts on the tools we use and frequently recommend for hardwood installation. Below is one picture of the final product. Here’s the rest. This project was a lot of fun. We hope you enjoy the tutorial!

While each hardwood job has its differences and subtleties, this series covers many of the common challenges and pitfalls inherent in every hardwood installation, from leveling the subfloor to installing baseboard and shoe molding. Just follow the links in the steps below, and don’t worry – no spam here. This is just straight-up content!

We hope you enjoy the series as much as we enjoyed publishing it! We also hope it’s helpful to...

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Be sensitive to the way the ends fit together. One end has a tongue and the other end has a groove -- this is called end matched. Make sure to always cut the wall end of the wood so that you do not cut off the groove that fits to the tongue. If that happens, that would result in a pretty big gap. Find a piece and lay it alongside the hole and flip it over. Make sure when you make the mark to cut off the wall side, not the room side. When you make the mark, butt it up against the baseboard and then mark at the end of that tongue. That will leave a 3/8" gap for expansion and contraction when installing the piece.

Note: Before nailing, make sure to put at least two nails in every board. The rule of thumb is to place a nail every 10" to...

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Getting a New Hardwood Floor Level Tips

DEAR TIM: I'm getting ready to install 3/4-inch-thick tongue and groove golden-oak hardwood flooring. I'm ready to start the job but my wood subfloor seems to have all sorts of high and low spots. I don't know where to start the job. Should I use a leveling compound to smooth the floor? Are there other tricks I can employ to make sure the finished floor is smooth as glass once finished? Gary W., Calgary, Alberta, Canada

DEAR GARY: This task is not as challenging as it might seem. You are very lucky that you discovered the flaw in the subflooring before you started the installation of the finished wood. All too often, I have seen professionally installed hardwood floors that have dips, humps and other inconsistencies in them. When I see these imperfections on the finished high-gloss surface, I know a rookie must have installed the actual flooring.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local hardwood...

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The choice of flooring is one of the most basic yet important decisions a homeowner has to make when undertaking a renovation, as it underpins everything else. While there are plenty of different options, from carpet to terrazzo, one material is the acknowledged standard: hardwood.

But not all hardwood flooring is created equal, and selecting a product isn’t simply a matter of choosing a preferred color. A range of other factors can have an impact on both aesthetics and performance.

To explore the many options available, we spoke with three experts: Scott Jones, director of product management at Carlisle Wide Plank Floors; James Caroll, principal of LV Wood; and Mara Miller, partner at the AD100 firm Carrier and Company Interiors. Once you find the perfect fit for your space, you'll need to think about installation. While may choose to hire a professional to install their floors, some intrepid homeowners go the...

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I am 54, single mom, and designed my own home and have done roofing, tiling and other things. I am about to embark on doing what you are because the same reason...funds. My son just left Ideal Flooring where he was a warehouse mgr. and he told me two things. Make sure your underlayment is good. Meaning it will not rot and is a good moisture barrier. If your 1st floor does not have a basement...that means more moisture. Second, make sure of the warranty. It may specify installation must be done by a certified installer.
I am looking into interlocking systems as they vary and depth of flooring material. There is so much to learn. Steer clear of any installation by Home Depot. They contract out and it's been on the news how shoddy the work has been and no follow up. People have been ripped off badly.

In answer to your question, it's as hard as you make it by not reading and asking all you can before starting the project. I am in the middle of designing a

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Hardwood floor installers often use the term “level” when referring to subfloors, when actually they are meaning the term “flat.” While it’s desirable to have a level floor, most homes have a variance of a fraction of an inch across the width of a room. Hardwood floors do need a flat subfloor surface in order to prevent them from buckling after installation. Creating a flat subfloor involves lowering the high spots and raising the low ones. Each requires different processes to accomplish.

Check for Levelness

Remove any obstacles from the floor. Clean it well with a wet-dry vacuum. Pound nails into the subfloor with a hammer and set screws slightly below the surface of the subfloor with a screwdriver.

Pass a long carpenter’s level or straight board across the floor in all directions. Get down on your knees and look for daylight under the level or board.

Mark the high and low spots on the subfloor. Plan to correct gaps of more than 1/8 to 3/16 inch.

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I would use the wall in the top of your drawing to create a reference line. measure off that wall. to a spot roughly in the middle of the stairs. You can then measure off that line to the wall that appears in your drawing to be a common wall to the bedroom at the bottom of the drawing. You will probably find that some of the walls may be off a bit. Setting your layout to the longest "Sight" wall is common, you will have to determine that.

Once that is done, just strike new lines off of that to establish your starting point. You can use your chalk line to check your layout line, or your hardwood after a couple feet in width have been installed to see if you are staying straight.

You didn't mention what width wood you are installing, but if you are careful with your layout lines, you may be able to lay out the flooring so the widths break in the middle of the critical doorways. Just measure the width of 5 or 10 boards, before you start installing them, to come up with a width...

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Installing hardwood flooring – how long does it take?

How long does it take to install hardwood floors for your home in Westchester NY? This is a common question among Westchester homeowners, especially if deadlines are attached (e.g. a move in date) or coordination with a larger project (e.g. kitchen remodel or new addition).

While all projects vary in length, usually the largest factor is whether you are installing Prefinished or Unfinished hardwood. Generally, prefinished hardwood will take longer to arrive, but less time to install, while unfinished hardwood will arrive quickly, but will take longer to install due to the drying time. Every situation is different and sometimes the focus is on meeting a specific deadline; other times the timing is flexible but the customer wants the least interruption time, especially if they are living there during construction.

Please note that this article may contain affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure at...

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Choosing Flooring Materials -
You Get What You Pay For...

That saying is applicable to most products used in residential construction and remodeling, and it's doubly true about flooring. Installing, sanding and finishing hardwood flooring takes a lot of work, but when it's done, all that effort is easy to forget.

A comparable product is pre-finished hardwood strip flooring. Essentially pre-finished hardwood flooring is the same as the material used in this project, but there are small bevels milled around the perimeter of each board. These bevels prevent you from noticing the small inaccuracies in machining that cause some boards to lay slightly higher than others. The procedure for installing a pre-finished hardwood floor would be about the same as the methods used in this article.

Estimating Flooring Quantity:

The common rule of thumb that I have read many times, and heard many times from builders, is to purchase 5 to 10 percent more flooring...

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Floating hardwood floors require the removal of carpeting and padding before installation. This type of floor can be installed over tile or linoleum floors, provided they have no holes or rough places. Repair any holes in the subfloor and use filler to assure that the floor is level. After the removal of carpeting and padding, go over the floor and remove any remaining staples or nails. Check the subfloor for holes and soft spots. Repair if required.

Thoroughly clean the subfloor or linoleum by sweeping or vacuuming. If underlayment is recommended by the flooring manufacturer, roll it out over the cleaned floor as directed.

Begin installation of the floating floor along the longest wall in the room. Lay out the first row of flooring with the tongue side into the room. Install the next row by snapping the groove side to the tongue side of the first row. Stagger the butt joints of the second row. Continue until all flooring is installed.

Install transition strips...

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Installing unfinished hardwood flooring is going to provide you with a customized job that is going to look great. By doing unfinished wood, you will be able to choose the color that you want and create an unique look. Here are the basics of how to install unfinished hardwood flooring over a subfloor.

Step 1--Acclimate

Before starting the job, you are going to want to make sure that you allow the wood time to acclimate. You will want to wait 2 to 3 days before you install the wood. This will make sure that you do not run into any expansion problems after you install the wood.

Step 2--Starting the Job

Take the first piece of wood and place it in the corner of the room. Make sure that you leave approximately 1/4 inch gap between the board and the wall for expansion purposes. Take your nail gun and shoot some nails diagonally down through the tongue of the board.

Step 3--Continue Laying

Then take the next board and place it on the narrow...

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I’ve been hanging doors for over thirty-five years, and writing about it for nearly twenty-five. For many years, I approached door installs differently every time (like most carpenters). After all, there are so many steps, and there is a lot you need to watch for! It’s tough to do it the same way every time. But a door is a door is a door. Which means unless you’re doing exactly the same thing every time you install one, you’re wasting valuable energy and time.

In this article, I’ll break down door installation into the most important steps—the first five fasteners. But always prepare the opening before you attempt to set the jamb.

Prepare the Opening

Rough openings are exactly that—rough openings—especially today when framers often frame them more than 2 in. over the size of the door. And floors are almost always out of level, too. And walls are frequently cross-legged. Before you attempt to set a jamb, be sure to correct all those problems or they’ll...

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Heather Edwards
staff writer

On Feb. 5, 2-year-old Archer DeHoskins of St. Anthony had a problem; his stuffed raccoon had suffered a broken leg.

As part of an open house at the Wildlife Rehabilitation Center (WRC) of Minnesota, 2530 Dale Street in Roseville, kids and adults were invited to borrow a stuffed Beanie Baby and then walk their animal through the rehabilitation process. First, Archer’s raccoon visited Dr. Renee Schott, a full-time veterinarian employed by the WRC. She assessed the raccoon had a broken leg, so Archer gently carried his animal to X-Ray, where another WRC staff member showed him what the raccoon’s broken bone might look like. Archer helped wrap his raccoon’s leg with bandages provided by another staff member, and then gently tucked his raccoon into a cage for the rest of his recovery.

The WRC is only open to the public during their annual open house; on Feb. 5, 650 visitors toured the facility.

The WRC is one of the largest...

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