Inductor motor doesn't shut off and overheats

Ah my bad, I forgot you mentioned it was a new motor. Disregard my initial post then.

Im sort of lost on why the electrician thinks that restricting flow will fix it. How did he test it? Did put a inline meter to let the voltage flow through the multimeter? wonder if the amp draw goes down with the motor not inside the basket, like just pull it out and leave the impeller connected and run it, yes there no load but thats at least a test.

Only thing I can think of if there is some restriction already on the suction side or even the outlet side where its causing the motor to slow down and work harder trying to get back to full rpm. That can happen say if the outlets are restricted in some way. Inlet/suction side to be honest should be a problem in my eyes cause if it was restricted to that point it just wouldnt get enough water into the basket/impeller and would keep showing air in the basket. So Im leaning towards outlet/return side restriction somewhere. Whats the filter...

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If the pump was 'shot' then the holding 'tank' would flood. The fact that it is keeping less than an inch of water says that, right now, your pump is working fine.
Letting it continue to try to pump when there's nothing to pump though, could cause it to overheat, and/or prematurely wear out. So you want to shut it off either by unplugging it, or turning the breaker off, if you can't get the switch to working properly.

The switch is the most likely culprit. Fortunately, it's also the easiest and least expensive part to replace, heheh. It sounds like it is sticking. You might try giving it a tap to see if that will free it up - but that's only a temporary solution, it will stick again at some point, and will be harder to get working properly. In the meantime, letting the pump continue to run will be wearing it out - so it's better to fix the switch sooner, than later.

Sometimes, the contacts in the switch can be cleaned (Turn the power off to the pump before taking...

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This article describes a common overheating laptop scenario along with a fix that works.

Overheating laptop and related shutdown problems are very common in notebook computers, especially in home use. Common symptoms of laptop overheating include some or all from this list;

Laptop is extremely hot to the touch, especially around the fan exhaust area Laptop fan is constantly running at high speed Laptop shuts down by itself when doing nothing Laptop shuts down when playing games These laptop overheating or shutdown problems become worse over time, rather than getting better.

In around 1 in 10 cases of laptop overheating, there is potentially a phyical fault with the cooling hardware.

By this I mean either a mechanical failure with the fan where it can no longer spin, or it spins too slowly, or a motherboard electrical fault which exhibits itself by not telling the fan to spin fast enough to cool the laptop.

However 9 out of 10 cases of laptop...

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Hi Daun, it's Jack at Dyson.

Let me reassure you that it's normal for your Dyson Cinetic Big Ball to generate heat in use. You'll notice the exhaust air exiting the outlets in the ball shell feels warm - this is because it's just passed through the motor, which is also housed within the ball.

Like most Dyson vacuums, the Dyson Cinetic Big Ball is equipped with a thermal cutout, which would shut the machine down for protection if it actually started to overheat. Ordinarily this would be due to a temporary blockage, which should be easily resolved.

I hope this information answers your question, but remember our experts are on hand to help if you need further assistance at any point. You can reach the Dyson Customer Helpline by calling 0800 298 0298 (UK), 1-866-693-9766 (US), 1-877-397-6622 (CA) or 1800 239 766...

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Dryer Shutting Off Mid-Cycle

Watch this on YouTube - How to Troubleshoot your Dryer that Shuts off Mid-Cycle

There are a couple things that will cause your dryer to shut off before it has finished drying your clothes. The issue we are talking about here is when the dryer shuts down in the middle of a cycle. Below is a list of things that will cause this to happen. This will help you in the troubleshooting process and steps you need to take to fix it.

Bad Motor

There are a couple signs that you can be sure you have a bad dryer motor. When a motor starts to go bad, it will run hotter than it normally would. This excess heat build up will cause the motor's overload protection to kick in and shut the motor down. Most of the time the motor will start back up after it has had some time to cool. At some point it just won't start back up no matter how much it has cooled down. Another sign that the motor is going out is when you...

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A condensing fan motor should never be too hot to touch and be overheating on any unit whether it be a heat pump, air conditioner, or split system. The easiest and most common way to quickly tell is to place your hand on the top of it and it should be warm but if it is very hot (too hot to touch) then there is a problem. You can also measure the temperature with a thermometer, HVAC technicians often use infrared temperature guns that can read the temperature without ever touching the condensing fan motor, but a standard thermometer will also work.

Every condensing fan motor has a temperature it can safely operate at. This operating temperature is written on the side of the motor name tag which also has all the information about the motor,most motors run around 70 degrees Celsius or 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Sometimes the name tag can be easily seen and sometimes it will have to be lifted out to see. Lifting out a motor is easy as they are usually mounted to...

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Selecting the right motor can be a challenging task, and finding a motor that matches your speed, torque and power requirements is not enough. There are many factors that need to be taken into consideration when choosing a motor that matches your application requirements. This list will provide you a few checks you can do to prevent your motor from overheating, saving you time and money on replacement motors. If you have are currently having issues with your motor overheating, we hope this checklist can help you determine the cause.

There are many factors that cause motor issues, but here are six reasons your motor may be overheating:

1. Motor is too small for the application

It is important to make sure the motor you are using has been properly sized for the application, environment and duty cycle it will be performing in. A motor that is too small will not be able to dissipate heat quickly enough, and the motor will overheat.

2. High ambient...

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Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch

The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.


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When your computer randomly shuts off it can be quite the disconcerting experience. Most people will first look to their power source, which they rightly should, to see if that may be the cause.

The fact of the matter however is that the computer is much more of a marvel than most people realize, such as having a built-in self-protecting mechanism that shuts off a computer if any of the components get too hot. It’s usually in your best interest if it shuts down, as it’s likely shutting down to protect your computer from some impending danger.

Our guide will outline five of the most common reasons your laptop is randomly shutting off.

1. Dirty Fan/Overheating

One of the first and most likely reasons your computer is shutting off randomly, especially when you’re playing a game, is an overheating issue. This is the bane of most computers, especially laptops, since the heat has nowhere to go. Fans that are in peerless working order are critical in...

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Because work is being done by a rotating motor. The stalled motor still wants to work, but cannot. The incoming energy is turned to heat. In-depth Answer: As a motor slow

…down under a load its current draw increases. At stall (locked, jammed, etc) the current is maximum for the motor. At this point the motor ceases to be a motor and can be thought of as a resistor in the circuit. As the current flows through the windings they heat up and eventually the insulation fails. This, in turn, causes shorting/arcing between the coils. Under normal operation the current is low enough not to cause this effect. Most electric motors have a fan cooling system built into their housings to prevent overheat while running. Also, thermal cut offs are sometimes placed in the coils. These cut power if the temperature exceeds a certain limit....
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Automotive Electrics Basics - Part 1 - Terminology and Part 2 - Typical faults, symptoms, and diagnostic techniques

Ammeters and Voltmeters Alternator/Dynamo Anti Run-on Valve Batteries and Chargers Battery Cut-off Switch Brake Balance and Handbrake Warning Bulbs Clocks Connectors and Terminals Cooling Fans Fan Belt Fuel Pumps Fuses and Fusebox Hazard Flashers Heated Rear Window Heater Fan Horns Ignition Switch Ignition System Ignition Warning Light Indicators/Turn Signals Instruments Lighting North American 'Key in' Warning Overdrive Polarity Radio Relays
Schematics Seat Belt Warning Sealed Wiring Junctions Starter Steering Lock Switches in General Tachometer Washers Wipers Wire Colours, Terminal Numbering Wiring Harness Replacement Won't Start Won't Switch Off! Links
The sectioned MGB at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon

Indicator/turn signals and hazard flashers

Indicator/turn signal schematics
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Solder the wires from the secondary side of the transformer to the AC input pins of the rectifier on the circuit board.

To hook up the DC jacks, cut nine pieces of wire about 1" long. Solder wires from the center pin of Jack 1 to the center of Jack 2, Jack 3 to Jack 4, and Jack 5 to Jack 6. With the remaining 1" segments, daisy chain wire to a remaining pin on each jack. This will link all the negatives together.

Cut four 3" segments of wire. Solder one end of each to the 12V regulator output, 9V regulator output, 5V regulator output, and a common negative point, respectfully. Then solder the other ends to a center pin of a 12V jack, a 9V jack, a 5V jack, and the daisy-chained jack negatives, respectfully.

Put the LED holder in place, and snap the LED in.

With the board up away from the jacks, make sure there are no short circuits, especially on the AC side of the circuit, and then carefully plug in the power supply and see if it works. Use a...

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Anonymous said...

Fantastic read! Thanks for doing this. It's geeky stuff like this that makes the net so darn addicting.- I mean power supplies?? Who knew?

May 19, 2012 at 9:11 AM Matthew said...

Is it possible that the higher quality IC helps this charger truly switch off when a device is not connected? I've read that this Apple's adapters have effectively no waste when not in use, unlike most that always use some energy when connected to the AC receptacle.

May 19, 2012 at 10:55 AM K. said...

Matthew: surprisingly, it turns out that Apple's charger uses more power when not in use than the other chargers I measured (a Samsung charger and several $2 knockoff chargers). The idle power is still low - about 0.3 watts. I plan to write an article about power usage later.

May 19, 2012 at 11:11 AM mark said...

A link to an Amazon product page! This has to be one of the best affiliate sales I've ever seen. Itwould actually make me feel...

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WARNING: This circuit analysis deals with high-voltage, high-current induction heater power stages. Touching one of the HV nodes (600V @ 30A) of these types of circuits would probably be instantly lethal. We take no liability for your actions, so if you don’t know what you’re doing – stay away!

Hello Fellow ‘Schemers,

Today we’re looking into the guts of an induction cooktop. For those of you not familiar with induction cooking, the theory is as follows:

By running a big current through a coil, you can induce an incredibly massive current in a ferromagnetic (say, steel) pot sitting on top of that coil. Since the steel is very conductive, there is essentially no voltage built up across the metal but plenty of current still flows. This heats the pot through resistive heating and eddy losses, transforming the pot itself into the heating surface. Cool stuff. Want to heat a pan? Apply power directly to the atoms of the pan through electromagnetic tomfoolery. Go...

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