Installing base cabinets - screwing to the wall and each other?


This weekend I'll be building a couple of base cabinets to replace some of the existing ones, which I assume are original to the house (circa 1960s). I consider myself handy but have never built cabinets before. I've done a lot of research, purchased a pocket hole jig, and have most other common tools. The cabinets will be face frames, 3/4 plywood boxes with poplar rails and stiles and 1/4 inch plywood backs.

Thee kitchen layout is an L shape. One run will be 5 1/2 feet long, replacing an existing run of 3 separate cabinet boxes, which I'll now be making as one unit. It will meet an existing lazy susan corner cabinet. A small 12 inch cabinet will be made to meet the other end of the corner box. The cabinets will be painted - but I was attempting to hide all of the fasteners anyway (pocket holes, end panels, etc).

My question relates to installing, and comes in two parts.

Q1: Securing to Other Cabinets

The existing cabinets are screwed together, side to...

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Install wall cabinets before you install base cabinets so you don’t have to work above the base cabinets. The open area of the floor allows you, your helper, and your step ladder clear access. These steps describe installing framed cabinets. Frameless cabinets are installed in much the same manner except when connecting adjoining cabinets. To join frameless cabinets, use wood screws that are just shorter than the thickness of the two cabinet sides.

Transfer stud locations from the wall to the inside of each cabinet before you lift it into place; and drill clearance holes for the mounting screws.

Clearance holes, which are the same diameter as the screw, ensure that the cabinet will be drawn tight to the wall by the head of the screw. Measure carefully and measure twice. Drill the holes in the upper and lower hanging rails of the cabinets (the two horizontal pieces of lumber along the top and bottom of the back of the cabinet).

Set the first wall cabinet on...

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Paint the room and replace the flooring if you are going to.

It is not necessary to run the flooring under cabinets, but for some flooring materials, it is easiest to do the floor while the cabinets are out. Do not replace baseboards until after the cabinets are installed. If you are installing wood or tile floors, consider the thickness of the floor material when you decide whether it should go under the cabinets.

/d/df/Install Kitchen Cabinets Step 4 Version...

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Attach as many cabinets together as you can safely lift and install on the ledger board -- usually two. Use clamps to fix the stiles (the vertical pieces on the face of the cabinet frames) of the cabinets together and check for plumb, making sure the fronts of the cabinets are flush.

Next, predrill and secure the two cabinets together at the stile with the screws (Image 1). Affix one screw on the top and bottom in the front and back where the two cabinets meet.

Lift the cabinets onto the ledger board and check for plumb and level. Shim the cabinets if necessary.

Once you have shimmed for plumb and level, secure the cabinets into the wall at the studs. Be sure to predrill and affix the screws through the thicker framing piece along the top of the cabinets.

Check for plumb and level while you’re securing the cabinets. Repeat this process for all of the wall cabinets. If a gap exists between wall and the last cabinet, use a filler bar (supplied by the...

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There are many things you can do to minimize costs:
Do most of the work yourself.
Keep the same basic floor plan.
Minimize appliance purchases.
However, if you're going through the work and expense of installing new cabinets, you might consider redesigning your kitchen for better efficiency. Keep in mind, that a complete remodel will likely put your kitchen out of service for a week and often much longer.

When laying out a new kitchen, it is very important to make a scaled floor plan that takes into account such things as kitchen cabinets traffic flow, convenience, and accessibility. This drawing should also include all height and width measurements, location of outlets, wiring, plumbing, windows, and doors. Pay particular attention to the necessary clearances for doors and drawers, especially in corners and around appliances.
Your local home store may also offer a computerized design service that will provide you...
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Find the highest spot on the floor

Most kitchen floors are very flat, especially in homes less than 40 years old. But it's always best to confirm that by looking for the highest spot on the floor anywhere a cabinet will sit. You'll measure up from that spot and draw a level line to define the top of all of the base cabinets (Photo 1).

Find that spot with a straight 8-ft.- long 2x4 (or shorter to fit between the end walls if needed) and a 4-ft. level. Rest the 2x4 with the level on top about 1 ft. away and parallel to the wall and shim the 2x4 until it's level. Then mark the highest spot on the floor and repeat near any other walls that'll have cabinets. Continue until you find the highest spot. If you have two high spots, rest the board on both and find the highest one. Measure up the wall behind that spot exactly 34-1/2 in. (standard cabinet height) and mark the wall at that point. Using that mark as a starting point, draw a level line along the walls wherever base...

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This is Part Two of Kellbot's DIY IKEA Kitchen project. For an overview of the design and planning process, check out How we DIYed our IKEA Kitchen Remodel.

I consider myself an IKEA veteran. I have assembled dozens, if not hundreds, of pieces of IKEA furniture over the last 30 years. I am one with the Allen wrench. So when I saw the raised eyebrows when I told the IKEA employees I'd be installing my kitchen myself, I knew it was going to be work.

Related PostHow we DIYed our IKEA kitchen remodel

While we hired contractors for the Serious Business projects like structural and electrical work, we decided to tackle updating the kitchen cabinets ourselves. We chose... Read more

"Wow," said one IKEA Kitchen employee. "I have a bed that I've been putting off assembling because it came with three bags of hardware. But you're doing a whole kitchen? That's inspiring."
Aw, thanks!
"You must be really handy!"
Heh, kind of I guess?
Then my plumber said...

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Fitting Kitchen Wall and Floor Units

Install kitchen cabinets perfectly by following the step by step guides on these pages!

Tools needed to install kitchen cabinets

Alongside the materials you are going to need a spirit level/s (preferably a few different lengths), tape measure, at least two strong clamps, hammer, some wedges/shims, a hammer drill & Rawl plugs and/or decent cavity fixings if you have stud/Gyprock walls plus a drill/driver. If you are fixing to hollow masonry walls you will need some decent masonry fixings that expand in the wall too.

Setting up the base units

I always start by installing the kitchen base cabinets first, as the height these are at will later determine the height of the wall cabinets. Additionally, I install the doors at the end to keep them out the way. It also makes the cabinets lighter to handle and to keep them from getting damaged or dirty.

The first thing to do when you install kitchen cabinets...

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This is what some of our customers reported to Rod Tyson, our Production Manager:

Hi Rod,

Just a note to thank you.
The kits were perfect.
My brother and I assembled and installed the kitchen and laundry in a day and a half and they look great.
The thing that impressed us most were how easy it was to adjust the doors and drawers.

Richard Thompson


Dear Cabinets on-Demand,
We are very happy with our cabinets; by the way, they fit perfectly and were no trouble to assemble. My wife is thrilled with her new kitchen - the first brand new kitchen she has ever had. But all went together very smoothly and the result is just as good as we had hoped.
Thanks again,

R Dempsey – Bunyan NSW


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Installation instructions for kitchen pull out shelves

Instructions for installing other items will be included with item whenever available

Use the sliding shelf

The #1 tip on installing our sliding shelves is to let the sliding shelf be your tool for adjusting the drawer glides. There are points in every method of installation that will be easiest to accomplish when you use the sliding shelf as your guide. The drawer slides that we use have a control side and a free side. The right side slides are the control side, the track that the wheel rolls in is a captive one. The metal is bent around the wheel and the wheel will only track in that groove. The left side slide is the free side that allows for adjustment of the assembly. For this reason it is very important to pay attention to the left side slide for any problems with slide alignment with your sliding shelves will show up on the left side.

Shelf Clips

If you are mounting to an...

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