Installing bath screen - hit metal stud behind tile and plasterboard. Safe to attach?

Features Types How to make your own hands?


After a bathtub, and all installation work has been completed, you need to take care of the aesthetic side of the process.These include hiding from the eyes of water and sewage systems, which, in essence, will spoil all kind of bathroom. Availability screen easily solves this problem and is the final stage on the way to the formation of a cozy bathroom.

interesting thing is that when you walk into the bathroom, in the eye catches it initially screen.Tiled, it is the central point of the room.With proper and interesting selection of colors and textures of the screen causes admiration, creates an atmosphere of comfort, emphasizes individuality.

Tile does not absorb water, easy to clean.


Deaf screen. It does not provide the possibility to look under the bath.This - the capital, one-piece design, which has no door.Visually, this screen is good, but in terms of functionality, it has...
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Can't you overboard the tiles?

No. The hinged side of the door frame is on that wall. There's already only about 6mm depth to work with. I need to get the mirror tiles off so the wall can be re-boarded and re-tiled with ceramic tiles. I know removing the mirror tiles won't give me much more but it'll be enough to make the difference between a decent job I'm happy with and one that constantly irritates me. This is a job I'm doing for a close friend so I'll have to see it every time I visit unless I pee in the kitchen sink. .

They wont come off without ripping the plasterboard to

I know. I don't really care about the plasterboard. That's easy to replace. The plasterboard over the bath (where the shower currently is) will, most likely, be a soggy mess anyway - I just hope I don't find any rot behind it. Still, if I do it's better that it's found and sorted instead of just left to cause more serious problems later.

Is the board cemented on the...

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1 Mark out the tile niche location

2 Cut the timber studs

3 Measure for the horizontal beam

4 Cut the horizontal beam

5 Install the beam

6 Install the tile niche

7 Measure for the studs

8 Cut the timber

9 Install the vertical studs

10 Measure and cut a horizontal beam

11 Install the horizontal beam

12 Secure the tile niche

13 Install a vertical stud

14 Install the insulation

15 Measure for the plasterboard

16 Cut the plasterboard

17 Apply the adhesive

18 ...

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Another cold November night, another trip down to the dark railway arches of Waterloo for a spot of screwing and drilling. Yes, it was the second class in my beginners DIY course. This week we were to learn all about which screw goes into which surface using which wall fixing - and finally get our hands on a power tool.

First though, a couple of things to address from last week. One reader emailed in to say: "A useful article but please use the correct names for the tools," pointing out that I'd wrongly called a 'try square' a 'set square' (quite right, silly me) and suggesting that what I'd been calling a 'clamp' was actually a 'cramp'. Hmmm. After extensive online research, both terms look to be valid so I'm sticking with clamp.

Others expressed concern that by following my advice, A&E departments across Britain would be overwhelmed. Feel free to leave a word of warning to others in the comments section below if you found yourself in a hospital waiting room with a...

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I think you will need to do a little more research for long term effects of what you are trying to do

Check out these links:

Whatever you do you should really get a Dew Point Calculation done on the type of construction you intend to carry out.

Leaving a ventilated gap is a good solution for most jobs but he water (dew) must materialise somewhere and you don't want it coming into the building.

Stone walls and lime renders let the building breathe and you should not get problems with damp unless they have been treated with non breathable paints etc or the damp is coming from somewhere else !!



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