Is it OK to run NM-B cable from outlet behind TV to surge protector?

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Technically, this is not okay. Wiremold® and other similar products are not typically listed for use with power-supply cords, cordsets, or other similar cables. They're designed to contain data, communications, and audio video cables. See this answer for more details.

Check the manufacturer's documentation, to determine exactly what types of cables are allowed in the specific product you're using.

As for plugging the surge strip into the extension cord, that's definitely not allowed. There should be a label on the strip, or in the documentation included with the strip that says not to plug it into another strip of extension cord.

Relocatable Power Taps (XBYS)

...Relocatable power taps are intended to be directly connected to a permanently installed branch circuit receptacle. Relocatable power taps are not intended to be series connected (daisy chained) to other relocatable power taps or to extension cords.

The common solution to this...

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This type of connection is absolutely OK if your duplex socket (like on picture) is fused by fuse or by MCB, that does not exceed current limit of the socket. Your new planned arrangement will work better since you spread load more evenly on each surge protector power strip, however still keep on mind not to overload any of those surge protectors and try to prefer shorter cables with decent cable gauge.

I also recommend to use straight plugs or at least one straight plug per duplex socket. Flat plugs tend to block second flat plug from plugging into second socket on duplex socket panel

I actually have same type of connection as you are planning:
Plug I is comes from surge protector, this powers appliances on my work table (PC, TV, lamps, LAN, WLAN, table fan), due to this I have here better cable gauge

Plug II comes from surged two socket extension cord, where I have switching socket that switches on/off LED lights by plan and in summer I run here...

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You can't use them for TV or HSI, they will mess with the digital signals, it is a proven fact.

I also believe, that I do not want my coax so close to the AC wiring, that it will jump from one line to another because they are so close inside those devices.

The coax must be grounded at the entry to the buiding, and grounds the shield on the coax. That is part of the National Electrical code.

Running ethernet through those AC surge proector strip's is the same deal, it will slow down your network, again, that is a proven fact. There has been posters on this forum complaining on slow speeds and once their coax and/or ethernet was removed from those strips, they have gotten their speeds...

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My recollection is that APC used to have a REALLY strong warning about surge protectors in series with UPSes. I believe they said it was a fire risk. Now their warning is lesser:

"APC recommends against the use of any surge protector, power strip or extension cord being plugged into the output of any APC Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products. This document will explain why."

http://nam-en.apc.com/cgi-bin/nam_e...Xh0PXN1cmdlIHByb3RlY3Rvcg**&p_li=&p_topview=1

"Plugging a surge protector into your UPS:

Surge protectors filter the power for surges and offer EMI/RFI filtering but do not efficiently disstribute the power, meaning that some equipment may be deprived of the necessary amperage it requires to run properly causing your attached equipment (computer, monitor, etc) to shutdown or reboot. If you need to supply additional receptacles on the output of your UPS, we recommend using Power Distribution Units (PDU's). PDUs evenly distribute the amperage among the...

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My power outlet is all the way below, so I was thinking to get power cord extension, connect it to the power outlet, and then hide the extension in one those white cable covers all the way up to a wall mounted shelf, where the cable box would be, then hang the surge protector on the wall behind the tv. Connect the surge protector to the power cord extension, then connect my TV and cable box power cables to the surge protector, this would hide all the cables

and the only cable going down would be the power extension cord, this would also allow me to connect a bluray or ps4 in the future, since i can simply connect it all behind the TV

Is it possible? I don't see why not, even if you are using a power cord extension, it is connected to the surge protector
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Ask your fire chief or local building codes authority.

Ohh and buy some marshmallows to be toasted for this event.

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The power cable connected to the monitor should fit firmly in the three-pronged port on the back of the monitor. This power cable is usually of the exact same type as the power cable to the computer case but may be a different color.

The monitor you see in this picture has an HDMI cable plugged in on the right; the power cable is located on the left in this picture.

Warning: Make sure you power off the monitor, using the power button on the front of the monitor, before securing the power cable into the back of the monitor. If the monitor is powered on and the other end of the power cable is plugged into a working outlet, you run the risk of electric shock.

Note: Some older styles of monitors have power cables that are "hard wired" directly to the monitor. These cables do not typically come loose. If you suspect an issue with this type of power connection, keep your personal safety in mind and do not service the monitor yourself.

Replace the monitor or...

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in our college rooms we get 6 plug ins for two people. How many college students do you think own just 3 items.

TV, VCR, playstation, 2 lamps, cell phone charger, alarm clock, computer #1, computer monitor, computer speakers, computer #2, computer monitor, computer #3 (laptop), zip drive, usb hub (powered), cd-rw, computer speakers, stereo (100 watt), computer printer, coffee maker, fridge, microwave, cordless phone, and an ethernet hub.

that's 24 items on 6 plug ins.
you can be sure that I'm doubling up on the powerstrips. I haven't had any problems yet.

Now down at camp (staff, we get power) it's another story. 18 powered cabins x 6 plugins = tons of extention cords and power strips + power flucuations (a guy with an amp tester found 100 amps max some points of the...

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The filtering in power bars can cause issues with Homeplug adapters(Can filter out the frequency used for communication) so you are best to connect that directly to the wall if you can.

If they have Ethernet protection it should not hurt anything(why would they put something that causes issues), but most times it is phone(RJ11 not RJ45) protection

As far as powering a computer from a single outlet with the power bar it should not be an issue unless you have one of the beastly systems with 4 video cards/ect.

I currently have 3 computers(please note one is very power friendly one is still rather power friendly and a not so power friendly system) 2 monitors(on very power friendly LED backlit and one hungry CCFL lit), 1 tv(led lit and not that big) speakers(for the computers) a router, cable box, 2 upses and a fan all on one circuit without any issues.

Just know the limits on the circuit you are on(15A in my case), if it is shared you have to watch out...

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How does he transition from the romex to the surge protector?

The way I've done it and seen it done is that a receptacle is placed in the wall behind the TV, as you have. Romex is then used to connect it to an "inlet," it looks just like a plug mounted in a box. Then, you plug a short extension cord into your surge protector or UPS and the other end into the inlet.

Just like the PowerBridge.

OK, I get what you're saying now. Yes, the surge protector will work, but it won't be as effective. It doesn't really just stop surges at the one outlet. Since it is connected to the line to some extent it can protect the circuit. The problem is that there are delays in the response for the surge protector.

While it may "work" I don't think it is what you expected. You mentioned "power bridge" in the title, do you have one? If so, have him connect it up right.

Last edited by AandPDan; 12-13-2011 at 04:35...
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More specifically than the other answers, the most common type of "coaxial" cable is called RG-6. The accepted answer covers the ancillary question of the boxes, so I will focus on the cable.

Coaxial cable means there are multiple conductors in the cable, and they share a common center (coaxial -> co-axial -> share an axis). This is in contrast to other common types of cable where conductors might be side by side, e.g. most power cables, RCA cables, etc.

RG-6 is a specific category of coaxial cable with a single data wire in the center, plastic insulation surrounding that, and one or more metal shields around that layer which are grounded to reduce signal interference. Typically, RG-6 in North America is either dual shield or quad shield, with quad shield providing a better signal.

RG-6 is really good at carrying signals over long distance, outpacing CAT-5(e) and CAT-6. However, it has less bandwidth. This is why a home network will use RG-6 to connect to the...

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A cable surge protector is a device intended for use between electrical and cable outlets and the devices plugged into them. One end of the device plugs into a wall outlet, often with a coaxial cable running from a wall outlet to the surge protector, and then other devices can plug into the surge protector. These often replace standard power strips, providing multiple outlets for electrical devices that all plug into a single wall outlet. A cable surge protector often provides a high level of surge protection for electrical devices, while also protecting devices from surges running through coaxial cable.

Surge protectors are typically used to protect electronic devices, such as computers and televisions, from potential damage due to power surges. A power surge can happen due to fluctuations from power plants, though they typically occur because of a lightning strike or similar natural occurrence. If a surge comes through a house’s electrical systems, devices connected to the...

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No, not worth the risk.

It is against the National Electrical Code to connect extension cord wiring through a hole or opening in a wall, inside a dropped ceiling or under flooring.

Read more:

Extension Cord Laws | eHow.com

The National Electrical Code® NEC® states:

NEC ARTICLE 400 Flexible Cords and CablesGeneral 400.1 Scope.
This article covers general requirements, applications, and construction specifications for flexible cords and flexible cables.

400.8 Uses Not Permitted (ref. Extension Cord) Flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following:

(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
(3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings
(4) Where attached to building surfaces
(5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped...

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KENSINGTON GUARDIAN 6-OUTLET SURGE PROTECTOR

Why we like it:

This device offers solid, convenient protection at an affordable price. It uniquely features an extra long power cable… like, suuuper long.

Kensington is another first on this list, and they make a good first impression. The Kensington Guardian 6 Outlet Surge Protector is a very solid, basic surge protector for home use. This unit offers a 540 Joule surge protection rating, which (albeit low) has proved its usefulness to buyers again and again. Should the device experience issues, this company offers a limited lifetime product warranty. While we don’t believe this covers damages due to a surge, it seems to be for function issues with the device itself. That said, no one buys a product for its liability protection, so let’s look at some more positive features.

The main selling point of the Kensington Guardian surge protector is its incredibly long power cord. The 6-Outlet model of the...

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The return path via the Neutral wire or the Safety Ground at 50/60 Hz is not the issue (if it were, you would not be able to flip a switch to turn on the lights), it's at surge frequencies (typically 100 kHz, but also in the range of several kHz to several hundred megahertz) that the impedance chances. At 50/60 Hz, house wiring can have all sorts of bends and there is not an issue, but at surge frequencies it's an entirely different animal.

Here's a useful analogy, consider a hand gently breaking the surface tension of water & freely moving underneath the water. This is how it is for electricity. Now take the same hand, slam it as hard as you can into the water & you’ll encounter a lot of resistance, perhaps it will feel as if you hit a brick wall. This is how it is for surges. The water is analogous to the house wiring. At some frequency the surge hasn’t got a chance & will seek another path perhaps damaging our electronics in the process. That’s why spikes or transients...

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It's a safe bet that in today's digital age, most people own many electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets, expensive flat screen televisions, computers, and other very large appliances around the house requiring lots of power. It stands to reason, then, that protecting all of your devices from overloads and power spikes is just as important as initially investing in them. The last thing you want is to spend all of that money on your brand new Sony LED television only to have it burn out, thanks to a spike in electricity during a lightning storm. That's where the surge protector comes in handy.

Also referred to as a surge suppressor or surge diverter, a surge protector is a device designed to protect electrical appliances from voltage spikes in your home or place of business. This is accomplished by either blocking or shorting to ground any unwanted voltage spikes that occur above a particular threshold. By ground, we mean a reference point to which electric...

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2300peterw wrote:

Hi

If your mains supply is good then you should not need any surge protection. By good, I mean that your printer is not at the end of a long circuit that supplies lots of other equipment. I am not certain about your case but in the UK, generally, most sockets are 230 V and rated at 15 A on a ring main so that any socket can take its supply from two different directions and that gives 30 A. Laser Printers should not give any issues on these ring mains. I guess that some companies leasing Laser Printers have had issues and as a precaution use mains surge protection. Remember that surge protection will provide isolation for equipment upstream as well as the laser printer. Also, all equipment should conform to standards about creating electrical noise and withstanding it. I guess it is a case of suck it and see. My inclination would be to try it without in the positions that you want to install them and only get surge protection if proved needed.

...
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If your house was built in the last 50 years or so, chances are it's full of non-metallic sheathed cable. That's a good thing. Non-metallic sheathed cable, also called NM cable or Romex, after the popular brand name, is a flexible electrical cable with a plastic outer coating. That's the non-metallic sheath. Inside the sheath are two or more insulated wires and usually a ground wire. That's for safety.

NM cable is good for you because it's safer than older types of cable and wiring. It's good for electricians because it's relatively inexpensive and very easy to work with. There are different types of NM cable for different applications.

NM Cable Anatomy

Inside NM cable are three or more wires. If the cable is "two-wire" cable, it has two insulated wires -- one black and one white -- and one bare copper ground wire. Three-wire cable has a black, white, and red insulated wire plus a bare ground. While the ground isn't counted in the name, it has an important...

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HDMI not working after a power surge is one of the more common things I see as a TV tech, at least during surge season (when thunderstorms happen). When a power surge comes through HDMI, you could have one port stop working, all HDMI ports, or even a TV that won't turn on. HDMI produces the highest quality Video and Audio today, but failing to take special precautions to protect these ports can lead to very expensive repairs.

Hopefully you are here before this has happened to you, but if not, I'll show you some ways to protect yourself in the future.

The most important thing to remember,,,,HDMI damage can occur even if your TV is unplugged from the wall. Read on to see how to prevent it, it doesn't have to be expensive.

Think of electricity from a power surge like a person walking into your house. The power cord is the front door, HDMI (or any signal source) is the back. Of these, HDMI is the most sensitive to power surges. Are your doors open?

All...

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Hi,

According to this link,( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q50X... ) it seems that the Fire Stick requires >900mA to work effectively. You may wish to check what is printed on the supplied power adapter that came with the Fire Stick as regards the output current to verify this. It should be greater than 900mA (it probably is 1A).

Your TV's USB port seems to be supplying at least this amount of current as you say that there have been no issues.

An issue may (I stress may only) arise if for example you have the Fire Stick being powered by the TV's USB port and you connect another USB device (if you have that many USB ports on your TV) and find that it doesn't work or that the Fire Stick then also doesn't work because the total power that is being supplied to the USB ports is not enough for both devices. This is only conjecture on my part but the Fire Stick is drawing more current than the average USB device.

To be sure you would have to check the...

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Two levels of protection

Low-profile surge protector

Mount a low-profile surge protector directly behind a wall-mounted TV to hide the wires. Install the electrical outlet and coaxial cable outlet behind the TV, once you determine the best location for the wall bracket.

Any device with a computer chip, whether it’s a $20 digital clock or a $5,000 home theater system, is vulnerable to sudden voltage spikes that routinely travel through your electrical wiring. If the spike has enough energy, it’ll punch through the chip and ruin it, forcing you to either junk your TV or spend hundreds of dollars for repairs. Lightning during storms causes most damaging surges, but smaller surges, many generated within your home (by vacuum cleaner motors, refrigerator compressors, etc.), also gradually degrade and destroy computer chips. Homes with long lines from the utility pole (rural and “outer ring” suburban homes) and in regions with lots of thunderstorms are especially...

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NM-B cable (Romex®) is not designed to be used as a flexible cord, and must be properly secured and supported. It's also not rated for use where it may be exposed to physical damage.

Flexible cords have thicker jackets, which are designed to hold up to a bit more abuse. They also contain stranded wires, which hold up to movement much better than solid core wire.

If you were to use NM-B cable in this way, there's a few potential problems.

Abuse

The exposed bit of cable could be damaged, exposing the conductors. This could be a shock, and/or arc-fault hazard.

Movement

Repeated movement of the cable, could cause damage to the core of the wires. This damage could lead to increased resistance, which could be a fire hazard. Ultimately the movement could lead to the conductors breaking, which could pose an arc-fault hazard.

Instead you could go with a product like this Recessed Pro Power Kit w/Straight Blade Inlet. The inlet at the bottom...

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UPS for TV wall mount

I have a problem I am hoping someone can help with. I have a plasma TV mounted on my wall, and want to have a UPS mounted behind it. Problem is I cannot find a shelf that I can get the UPS to sit on that is shallow enough to fit behind the TV. The TV is mounted on a tilt mount so I have room to get it on the wall behind it. I just want something metal I can screw to the studs and then secure the UPS to that.

The UPS I have is approx 12" w by 9" d x 3" t

I want the 12x9 part against the wall, if that makes sense.

Any ideas?

nevermind, I misread your question

to ddesautels

2 shelf brackets at HD or Lowe's, ~$3 each and a 12" laminated board that you'll cut to size some $5.

to ddesautels

or remote the UPS. put a male INLET plug in the wall where the UPS will go, feeding a regular outlet behind the TV. this will NOT be wired into house wiring at all, just a wire run(NM-B or conduit with appropriate wire size)...

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wow, - you did some nice wiring back there on your wall.

I'll have to snap an image of what I did on my wall - I"m ashamed to show it but will, and now I want to do it your way.

All I did was make 2 holes, one at the top behind my TV, and one at the bottom of the wall, and slide all my data wires ( component, audio, hdmi ) thru the top hole, into and down the inside of the wall, and out the bottom hole.

It looks terrible that way, but it's cheap. I love your way. This means though that I would have to use 3 cables for every 1 cable I'm using now, if I am guessing correctly. 1 wire goes inside the wall, and goes from a wall plate to the bottom of the wall, and another wall plate. Then, - you hook up shorter cables from that wall plate at the bottom to your equipment, and at the top, shorter cables from the wall plate there, to the TV.

Ah gee, your job looks so professional.

I have a question, - how do you attach the boxes you are using for all...

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"Why should I run 12-2 wire to the lights when 90% of lighting fixtures use substantially lighter wire (as small as 18-2). Doesn't wiring 12-2 wire to a light fixture with 18-2 wire completely defeat the purpose?"

It's not an altogether unreasonable question, IMO. If a 20-amp breaker is considered to be too large to protect a wire smaller than #12, how then does it adequately protect a short piece of #18 feeding, say, a light socket? (Is that a fair restatement?)

I believe the answer is that the framers and keepers of the NEC, together with the testing laboratories, apply more than just electrical theory; they engage in a good bit of "risk management" as well.

They take into account, for example, that the maximum probable current draw from a light socket, properly installed and used, will not exceed a couple of amps. They also factor in experiential data about where failures have been observed, how heat is dispersed under the limited circumstances of a...

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Mistake: Box too small

Too many wires stuffed into a box can cause dangerous overheating, short-circuiting and fire. The National Electrical Code specifies minimum box sizes to reduce this risk.

Solution: Install a larger box

To figure the minimum box size required, add up the items in the box:

1 - for each hot wire and neutral wire entering the box

1 - for all the ground wires combined

1 - for all the cable clamps combined

2 - for each device (switch or outlet?but not light fixtures)

Multiply the total by 2.00 for 14-gauge wire and by 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box size required in cubic inches. Then choose a box with at least this much volume. Plastic boxes have the volume stamped inside, usually on the back. Steel box capacities are listed in the electrical code. Steel boxes won't be labeled, so you'll have to measure the height, width and depth of the interior. Then multiply to find the...

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There isn't anything wrong with using #12 on a 15A circuit breaker or an extension of a branch circuit, provided, as Absolute mentioned, you have the right size wire nuts, terminals, etc. In some cases, you'd have to use #12 on a 15A circuit to overcome voltage drop.

You could theoretically have someone see the #12 and incorrectly assume it was a 20A circuit, but that's on the installer.

quote:While obviously, I would call it out as wrong in the opposite situation - a 20amp breaker with 14 gauge wire.

Interesting part is that the rated ampacity for #14 (using the standard 75 deg C table) is 20A**. The 15A circuit breaker restriction comes from a footnote in the ampacity tables in Article 310, and is based on overcurrent protection requirements.

** #14 would physically handle 20A, but it's still a no-no to use with a 20A breaker.

quote:All city codes allow 14-2 if it is a 15amp breaker.

Fuzzyfan asked if you could use #14 on a "power...

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