It it safe to have a 15 amp GFCI outlet on a 50 amp GFCI breaker?

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All 15A receptacles (outlets) are rated for 20A passthrough. Which basically means you can only plug a 15A appliance into it, but you could use a total of 20A on the whole circuit. (Assuming of course 12ga wire and a 20A breaker). So in a residential setting, there's rarely any reason to use 20A receptacles, the ones with the "T" neutral.

Also, just to clarify, normal receptacles have two silver (neutral) screws and two brass (hot) screws. There's no in/out or line/load on them. GFI receptacles, if installed as the first receptacle on the string, have line/load receptacles that can protect downstream ones.

Similarly, replacing a 20A GFI with a 15A GFI is fine.

Code nowadays (for probably the past 10-15 years) has been that the bathroom requires its own dedicated GFI protected 20A circuit (with a few exceptions), and a laundry requires its own 20A circuit. Depending on when your house was built, your setup may have been correct at the time, which, until you...

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Selling my parents older home and need to replace a garage standard 15 amp outlet with a GFCI outlet. I installed a 20 amp GFCI and it passes power to the next 15 amp standard outlet which is in series and that outlet works fine. The GFCI outlet does not power anything on. Thanks

Update: Selling my parents older home and need to replace a garage standard 15 amp outlet with a GFCI outlet. I installed a 20 amp GFCI and it passes power to the next 15 amp standard outlet which is in series and that outlet works fine. The GFCI outlet does not power anything on. Thanks The GFCI is not working and I was... show more Selling my parents older home and need to replace a garage standard 15 amp outlet with a GFCI outlet. I installed a 20 amp GFCI and it passes power to the next 15 amp standard outlet which is in series and that outlet works fine. The GFCI outlet does not power anything on. Thanks
The GFCI is not working and I was wondering if the cause is in using a 20 amp on a...
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One View:

In USA:

As many as you want. There's no magic number. You have 15A to play with, so you can divide that up however you wish. It all depends on what you intend to plug in. For general usage I'd stick with the NEC Code (any point along a wall must be within 6ft of a receptacle).

In my 1970's house here I've counted 9 receptacles on a single 15A breaker (yuck!).

Always be sure to switch off the breakers at the main panel before you attempt to do any work on any mains power circuit.

Another View: Yes there are some "magic numbers".The U.S. National Electrical Code Article 220.3 (B) (9) has guidelines for calculatiing general 120 volt dwelling-unit receptacle circuits as having a load of 180 volt-amps per receptacle.

Because a normal circuit breaker can only be loaded to 80 percent of trip rating, then 0.80 X 15 = 12 Amps. 12 Amps X 120 volts = 1440 Volt-Amps per 15-Amp circuit. 1440 VA / 180 VA per receptacle = 8 duplex receptacles...

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Wiring a 50-amp, 240-volt, two-pole GFCI breaker for a spa, whirlpool or hot tub, isn't difficult. It does require an understanding of the National Electrical Code (NEC) and the local electrical codes covering the wiring of spas. You need to inquire about any local regulations that supersede the minimum requirements set by the NEC when you apply for your wiring permit. Your city's Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), usually your Building Permits Department, will supply you with a copy of the local electric codes upon request. Don't start this or any other wiring project until you have a wiring permit and have posted it on the premises as required by...

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It may surprise EV newbies to learn that an electric car’s charger is found on board the vehicle. It’s the equipment buried in the guts of the car that takes an AC source of juice from your house, and converts it to DC—so your car’s battery pack can be charged.

This fact doesn’t stop nearly everybody from calling the wall-mounted box that supplies 240 volts of electricity a “charger.” Actually, that box, cord, and plug has a technical name—Electric Vehicle Service Equipment or EVSE—and if you have an EV, you’re going to want to install one at home.

So, it’s slightly misleading to say we’re providing guidance about chargers because we’re really talking about buying an EVSE—which is essentially no more than an electrical device allowing drivers to safely connect an electric car to a 240-volt source of electricity. It’s not rocket science, and you should not overthink the selection and installation of an EVSE.

That said, there are important...

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GFCI Protection is for ACCIDENTAL shock ...

That is, if you shock yourself by putting yourself between the actual hot wire and the actual neutral wire, you will NOT be protected, you may be killed! The reasoning behind the GCFI is that, most commonly, accidental shock comes from contacting the hot wire and the GROUND, which is basically a higher-resistance path in parallel with the neutral wire (i.e. the neutral wire is grounded at the fuse/breaker box and at the receptacle, if possible). That way, if even a very small current flows between the hot wire and ground WITHOUT flowing through the neutral wire at the GFCI, the device trips. You can get 15, 30, or whatever the current rating is flowing indefinitely as long as ALL the current flows through both wires; if the current detours through ground, even a small amount (typically 0.001 to 0.005 amperes) trips the breaker. And it can do so in a small fraction of an AC cycle!

How does it do it? Basically, both...

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You are safe.

All you're taking about doing is plugging a 120V device into a 120V circuit, using a plug adapter you can purchase off the shelf.

For anything beyond this, consult a local licensed electrician.

If this wasn't safe, you couldn't just buy the adapters off the shelf. But you can buy these kinds of adapters:

Your UPS isn't going to draw any more current through a 30A breaker than it does through a 15A or 20A breaker.

All of your circuit breakers are clamped directly onto the fat aluminum buses in your service panel and subpanel(s), which are in turn directly connected to the fat cables that connect directly to the windings on the step-down transformer coil on the pole outside your home or office.

All the devices you plug into the wall, from a tiny 5 watt light bulb to your phone charger to your dishwasher, are directly connected to that transformer outside (which is directly connected to the high voltage power distribution...

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Always Disconnect the Power before beginning work!

Failure to follow this rule can result in death or injury.

Breaker and fuse panels remain hot even if the main breaker is turned off or the main fuse is removed. Main panels should only be worked on by qualified persons.

Incorrectly performed electrical work can result in fire, damage to property, and injury or death to people. Furthermore, in some jurisdictions it may be against the law for anyone other than a licensed electrician to perform electrical work, and work which is performed by unqualified people or which has not been inspected and approved may cause your homeowners insurance policy to be void.

Replacing a 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFCI outlet greatly improves the safety of an ungrounded electrical system

15-30 minutes

- it will probably take almost as long to read this article as it will to do the job.

Subjects in this article are covered by the National Electric Code - NEC...

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Portable

A ground fault happens whenever electricity escapes the confines of the wiring in an appliance, light fixture, or power tool and takes a shortcut to the ground. When that short cut is through a human, the results can be deadly. About 200 people in the U.S. alone die of ground faults each year, accounting for two-thirds of all electrocutions occurring in homes.

To prevent such accidents, Charles Dalziel, a professor of electrical engineering at the University of California, invented the ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), in 1961. Most of the time, his invention does nothing; it just monitors the difference in the current flowing into and out of a tool or appliance. But when that difference exceeds 5 milliamps, an indication that a ground fault may be occurring, the GFCI shuts off the flow in an instant — as little as .025 second.

GFCIs are required by the National Electric Code in all new kitchens, bathrooms, crawl spaces, unfinished basements,...

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Why do you call it a 15 amp circuit ? Is it #14 wire, then yes it is limited to 15 amps before it (the wire) scorches or burns.

but, if it is a #12 wire and you have a 15 amp circuit breaker- at your breaker box - then it is simply a 20 amp circuit with a 15 amp circuit breaker.

Recently, at two hardware stores they sold only 20 amp GFCIs. I asked about that and they said the same thing another user has already told you.

anyway, to solve your problem, discover what size wire is in that circuit -

I can't believe an electrician used #14 wire for outlets. - that would be unethical, a safety hazard, a nuisance, and cheapo to the max - and probably against NEC or state codes as amended.

To check your wire size you can turn off the main breaker, pull your CB and test the size of the wire by how it fits in a wire stripper (a wire stripper with different slots for different size wires) - check for it to be #12 first - that is probably the size of the wire - if...

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The circuit breakers in the electrical panel in your house are safety devices. Each one is designed to disconnect power when the current passing through the circuit exceeds its rating. This prevents overheated wires, electrical power surges and fires. Electrical outlets don't draw power until you plug something in, so a 20-amp circuit should theoretically be able to handle as many outlets as you want without overloading the breaker. There are practical limits, though.

Allowable Breaker Load

The National Electrical Code doesn't limit the number of receptacles you can place on a 20-amp circuit, but you'll overload the breaker if you run appliances that draw more current than the breaker can handle. The NEC does specify that a circuit breaker shouldn't handle more than 80 percent of the load for which it is rated unless the breaker is labeled otherwise. By this standard, the total current draw on a 20-amp circuit shouldn't exceed 16 amps. This allows the breaker to...

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