Lath and Plaster Framing: a Floating 2x4?


All guess work:

That wall is an edition. If it was original to the house as a stiffener, it would be sitting directly on the lath.

The little 'blue' pieces raise the 2x4 above the plaster lobes. If scraped completely flat, the ceiling below would have got all messed up. Even then, it's likely to pop the plaster off the lath, with what little is left sticking up.

I hope there's a top sill inside the room, if not then it's counting on the lath to not fall over and counting on itself to not let the wall rack. (Drill a hole through the 2x4, and then keep going. If you hit another 2x4, then at least you know the wall won't rack but it's still counting on that lath for stability. Install braces throughout.)

What I would do anyway:

Cut out the section you need removed and then install ledger boards perpendicular to it and its adjacent joists, on both ends of the cut. (If we're counting on some adhoc inner wall to not let the house rack, the house is...

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"Plaster and lath" refers to an older style of interior wall that uses wooden lath attached directly to the studs; the lath is then embedded with plaster.

The plaster dries to form a hard, smooth surface suitable for finishing with paint or wallpaper. Plaster and lath is rarely used now, except to repair existing plaster and lath walls.

The Original Way To Finish a Wall--Long Before Drywall

A majority of homes built prior to World War II used plaster and lath construction.

After the War, drywall (i.e., plasterboard or wallboard), came into vogue and supplanted plaster and lath as the main mode of interior wall construction.

This style precedes the use of drywall as a means of covering up studs on the interior of a house. Essentially, drywall acts the same way as plaster, since both are mineral products.

The difference is that the "plaster work" has already been done ahead of time, in a factory (thus, the word "dry" in drywall). Since...

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Most homes prior to the Second World War were built with lath and plaster walls, as opposed to the drywall method more commonly used in today's construction. Thin pieces of cedar (called lath) were nailed onto the 2x4 framing, then wet plaster was applied onto the lath in one to three applications.

Depending on the quality of the original installation and the maintenance of the home, such lath and plaster walls, may be in good condition. With adequate maintenance, they may be fully serviceable and usable. In some cases, layers of wallpaper were applied on top of the plaster for decorating purposes. Since that wallpaper contributes to the stability of the plaster in some instances, its removal could contribute to the demise of the wall...

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In home construction, lath and plaster is technique for constructing interior walls that uses small planks of wood and plaster to form the wall. The term is used interchangeably with plaster and lath. The wood planks, typically cedar, are known as the lath, and are attached to a frame of 2x4s, with small nails and little spaces in between the boards. Wet plaster is then applied, typically in one to three coats, where it hardens to form the wall.

Lath and plaster was a very common form of wall construction during the first part of the 20th century. Drywall became the technique to rival lath and plaster, but drywall did not really catch on in the mass construction market until World War II. At that point, the economics began to favor drywall to a greater degree, and eventually drywall became the dominant technique in the marketplace.

Still, despite the popularity of drywall in more recent decades, lath and plaster can offer durability for many years, and is still...

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The walls are just stardard 2x4 timber on 16inch centres with noggins half way up. Pretty standard studwork really, here are some pictures

The strength and stability of this shed really does come from the way the corner posts form an integral part of the shed, the picture below shows how the posts form part of the wall.

The roof is made of 18mm OSB board cut into 4 triangles to make a pointy pavillion roof. Calculating the triange sizes is fairly complicated and calculating the angle of the edge cuts is even more so. So I checked my calcs with a carboard scale model as 4 full sheets of OSB is a lot to throw away if you make a mistake!!

Like the rest of the shed, I wanted the roof to be strong, so I've reinforced all the joints and long expanses with extra timber.

The shed is finished in featheredge boards, but I was a little concerned as to how weatherproof they would be, I also wanted the shed to be really sturdy so I actually clad the whole shed in...

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