Leakage in my pipes, how to densify/seal?

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Hold the tape in your left hand – to avoid running it the wrong way and having it unravel as you start threading.

If you can bottom-out four adapters into each other, they're likely all the right thread type, you just didn't use enough tape. IME, warping it three times is sufficient. On fittings that don't like to cooperate, you may need substantially more to make the seal.

When applying the tape, you should only stretch it with enough pressure to let it sink into the threads. If you pull any harder, you'll cheat the depth of the wrap. Finish it by seating it well with your thumb or rolling it in your palm.

I see in the picture only a pair of pliers and no crescent wrench or pipe wrench. I'd have said that was your problem, except that you somehow managed to bottom-out those fittings, so my vote is they're just loosey-goosey. Note, with enough tape on them to seal and without the proper wrench, you might never get it airtight.

I don't bother to pressure...

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Leaking pipes are among the most annoying problems any homeowner can face. It not only makes a mess in an otherwise clean bathroom or kitchen floor. Leaking pipes can also prove to be expensive if water keeps on dripping. A professional is usually the best person to handle repairs on a leaky pipe. Your plumber should know whether to replace the pipe, or to just fix joints, or maybe even apply some sealing material over the pipe.

While you wait for your plumber to come, though, you can create a temporary seal to prevent your leaking pipe from making a bigger mess.

What you need:

Rubbing alcohol Hair dryer Electrical tape Inner tube from a bicycle wheel Pipe clamps Wrench Epoxy sealant

Turn off the main water supply. The first thing you should do when doing any pipe repairs is turn off the main water supply. This will either be located in your basement, at the front of your house, or anywhere the water meter can be found. You will need a wrench to twist the...

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There are all kinds of plumbing leaks. Some can flood your home, while others are not nearly so damaging. Your approach to stopping a leak depends on the type of leak it is. If the leak is at a joint, tighten the joint. If the leak is in a pipe, remove the section that is leaking and replace it with a new section. Unfortunately, this is more easily said than done.

For example, when you turn a threaded galvanized steel pipe to unscrew it from its fitting at one end, you tighten the pipe into its fitting at the other end. With copper pipe, the new section must be sweat-soldered in place. Most pipe replacement jobs are best left to a plumber, but as a do-it-yourselfer, you may consider an alternative: the pipe patch.

You'll find patch kits for plumbing leaks at the hardware store, or you can make your own with a piece of heavy rubber from an old inner tube and a C-clamp. Another possibility is to use a hose clamp with a rubber patch. Factory-made kits contain a rubber...

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My house is heated with a gas-fired furnace. How can I seal the house's ducts to prevent carbon monoxide (CO) leakage?

First, let's clarify this. Ducts carry heated or cooled air. Under normal operation, they don't carry combustion byproducts and are sealed as a matter of energy efficiency, not combustion safety. Sheetmetal flue pipes, on the other hand, carry combustion gases from the furnace or the boiler to the chimney. They are not sealed to the same extent that ducts are.

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Fiberglass ducts require an aluminum foil tape, while sheetmetal ducts are sealed with metal-foil tape, professional-grade duct tape or mesh-reinforced mastic.

Single-wall sheetmetal flue pipes are joined without sealants. The end of one flue pipe is crimped and fitted into the end of the next (uncrimped) pipe. The joint is fastened with three sheetmetal screws. If you find gaps in the flue pipes or if they are loose, call a heating-cooling...

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The short version:

I have an old PVC sewer drain pipe that comes up out of a concrete slab floor. Under the floor, the other end of the pipe connects to other drain pipes in the house, so before I cover the area with more carpeting, I'd like to seal that pipe off permanently to avoid any possible leakage in the future. I'd like to avoid disturbing the concrete floor, if possible. I'd like to put some kind of plug in the pipe and glue it into place with common PVC primer and cement, but I don't know if there's any kind of plug made for this purpose.

Any suggestions?

The details:

I've taken down a non-load-bearing wall in my house. The wall used to carry pipes for water (coming down from the second floor above), natural gas (embedded in the concrete slab floor), and sewer (also embedded in the slab). These were all used for a poorly-positioned laundry room. I've easily sealed the copper pipes for the water and natural gas, but I'm left wondering what to do...

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You need to investigate, What type of leak influences how you investigate, but let us assume it is a water-based leak. Look above the leak for sources if it is not apparent what the cause is. It is not rocket science. Leaks come from many things, most infrequently the piping itself. Roof flashings, wall flashings, caulk and grout around tubs and showers, gaskets and putty around faucets, failed toilet flanges or seals in the area of the leak need to be systematically ruled out. Tile grout is NOT waterproof and needs sealing every six months, for example. A toilet seal cannot be effective on a spongy floor. On occasion, drywallers or homeowners or carpenters penetrate a pipe with a nail or screw.

Once the source is discovered, repairs are fairly easy to extremely costly. The most-frequently over-charged repairs involve roof or wall flashings, but these can also be the worst to repair because they exist for a long time before discovery and damage the very framing of the structure as...

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You didn't state whether it's hot/cold supply or waste.

If it's on a waste pipe connection you can get replacement washer kits but more often than not it's just as easy to replace the trap (if that's where the leak is) or the joint (if it's push-fit or compression). When you've got it all apart check for, and remove, burrs on the ends of the plastic pipes. Any on the inside can trap hairs and other crud causing partial or eventually complete blockages. Any on the outside can damage rubber seals or get under them causing leaks. Also check for cuts or nicks where the seals sit on the pipes as these will be almost impossible to make leak-proof. Replace the pipe if necessary.

If the leak is on a threaded supply connection you turn off the water, dismantle the leaking joint, check the olive for damage, put a few turns of ptfe tape around the olive, and reassemble and tighten it up (don't overtighten it, though). If the joint uses rubber washers take them out, make sure the parts...

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Pipe fittings are small sections of pipe that connect two larger sections, often at a curve or elbow. If the pipes shift in an earthquake or simply as the building settles, the fitting can spring a leak. You don't need to replace the pipes to fix the problem, but if you want your solution to last, you do need to replace the fitting. If you're not comfortable doing that yourself or your local building codes don't allow you to, apply a temporary patch to stop the leak until you can call a plumber.

Permanent Fix

Turn off the water to the house. Turn on all the faucets on the first floor until the water in the pipes has drained out.

Unscrew the compression nut from each end of a flexible plumbing connector. Set the nuts and the compression rings aside. Hold the connector up to the leaking fitting and bend it so that it matches the curve in the pipes if necessary. Draw a line on the pipes about 1 inch in from each end of the connector. Put the connector...

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Even the smallest of leaks in drain pipes can cause damage and chaos in your home. Rust, rot and water damage are unavoidable when your drain pipes are leaking. There is no substitute for having a professional plumber replace your pipes in order to stop a leak. However, if you need a quick solution to seal leaking drain pipes, there are some at-home solutions that can save you some damage to your home.

Things you need

Towel

Electrician's tape

Plumber's epoxy

Putty knife

Rubber hose

Automotive clamp

Shut off the water source running to the pipe before attempting to fix a leak. This will stop the leak while you are applying your materials and prevent water from limiting the effectiveness of some adhesives.

Locate the area of the pipe that has the leak. Remember that water can travel along the outside of the pipe before dripping off; be sure to trace the water back to its source to properly seal the leak.

Dry the...

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Brian Evolved: Bad repair cut replace or solder...

mingchei lin: HI! the pipeseal can using on copper hot water pipe connector?
and in taiwan have delar?

netgun777: Grow up man - Just braze it and move on.

TheTails63: It will seal that copper pipe good if you just plan on passing farts thru it.

Robert Jokel: can you do this repair while water is dripping through a cracked pipe? thank you, Rob

DFDalton1962: Since the epoxy does appear to have a good viscosity to it prior to curing, what prevents it from partially filling the inside of the pipe when pressed onto the hole, thus partially obstructing water flow through the pipe? Are there chemicals in the epoxy that can leach into the water? How permanent is the fix, especially on hot water pipes that may expand and contract more than cold water pipes?

I don't know - seems like there are several better options, especially since it appears the pipe must be drained and dry to properly apply...

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[Summary]How to Fix Leaking Pipes You can run up a big water bill in a hurry if you get a leak in your pipes. You need to know how to fix it fast until you can do a full repair or call a plumber. With a few steps, you can stop the leak temporarily and still h

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How to Fix Leaking Pipes

You can run up a big water bill in a hurry if you get a leak in your pipes. You need to know how to fix it fast until you can do a full repair or call a plumber. With a few steps, you can stop the leak temporarily and still have running...

Leak-Fix-Plumbing Repair Tape Review

Product Review of the plumbing repair tape called MAGIC TAPE, purchased at Lowe's Hardware for about $7. Just thought I would share my point of view as an average homeowner. I have seen similar products sold as marine tape, some mighty tape or other type of "wonder tape" as seen on TV Mighty Fix-it Tape. Not sure if those are similar or not, but the...

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Hey guys, need to tap the hive mind for advice on some home repairs.

BTW, this isn't really a H(ouse) but instead a townhouse apartment that we're talking about here with a long history of craptaculous half-assed repairs being done, hence the reason why I'm going to try and do this repair myself. I think of it as a good way to get some experience in for our first home.

I've noticed that we've got a small leak around a joint in the main sewage (soil) pipe in our basement. It's located in the joint where the main vertical pipe goes into the tap - the portion that has a screw on/off piece for access to the pipe, just before it goes into the foundation. It appears the pipe was sealed with some sort of caulking which is decaying.

I swear it looks as if it's just standard white silicone caulking that they used. That would explain why it seems to be coming loose from the pipe. It wouldn't surprise me in the least if it was.

Anyway, it looks...

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