Light wiring advice

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what have i done wrong?

Your wiring looks correct for the last light in a UK radial lighting circuit wired with the connections in the ceiling rose.

See Ceilling light wont switch off after a new installation

You could

Check that all the screws are fully tightened down. The circuit-breaker in the consumer-unit has not tripped out (or fuse blown). This might not always be abvious in daytime. There is 240 volts at one of the red wires.

For suitable voltage tester, see When doing electrical work, what do I use to check wires are safe?

Obviously, you need to take extreme care when working in the vicinity of live 240V circuits.

There are three common ways to wire lighting circuits in the UK (in order oldest method to newest)

wiring is connected in junction boxes under floorboards or hidden in the loft/attic/roofspace. wiring is all connected in the ceiling roses (as yours appears to be) wiring is all connected in the backbox behind the...
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http://www.homebuildingandrepairs.com... Click on link if you want to learn more about electrical repairs and home building. I had to make this video, because people are interested in electrical problems like these. They go down to their local home improvement center and purchase a replacement light switch, only to find out that there is a screw, on their new light switch, that wasn't on their old one. If you don't have a grounding wire running to your light switches, there's not much you can do about it, because you probably live in a home that didn't require grounding wires to be connected to your light switches. Make sure that you find time to visit our websites and don't forget to watch as many of our videos as possible to increase your home improvement and repair...

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I have installed 4 6" IC recessed cans in my lvng room. My living room has no lights what so ever in it, it has about 6 wall outlets and two switches right by the door.

The first switch is for the outside light and the second switch controls power to only one of the outlets top port. When you flip the switch anything that is logged in that top port of the wall outlet will turn on. The bottom port always works, as well as all the other outlets in the room.

I purchased a dimmer and I want to add it to the other side of the room. I purchsed a 50' roll of 14-2 romex cable and after reading a bit I'm thinking that I will need to go with 14-3.

Question is... How do I wire all the lights so that both switchs work and will I need to purchase 14-3...

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This page includes links to all of our Electrical DIY how to projects. Browse through the below list and click on your chosen link to view the project information.

The following pages will take you through the safe use of electricity and electrical appliances, cables, wires, sockets, switches together with many forms of lights and their associated switches and circuits.

It is important to remember that Part P of the building regulations makes it illegal for DIY electrics in many instances and certainly in the bathroom and kitchen. More information about Part P is available in our pages and from this link to the National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting(NICEIC UK)

Electricity is dangerous but if sensible rules are followed home improvers can do much themselves. Changing a light fitting is covered in these pages, as is adding a light switch or spur socket. Two way lighting instructions are also shown and we tell you how to add a socket...

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No matter how old your electrical system, it is always possible -- and usually easy -- to remove an old wall or ceiling fixture and install a new one. A new fixture can dramatically change the appearance of a room. You can replace a ceiling light with a plain light, a chandelier, track lighting, or even a ceiling fan, among other options.

Mounting hardware
If your home was built after World War II, attaching a new fixture should be easy. Mounting hardware has changed little, and the new fixture should come with all the parts you need. Simply attach a strap to the ceiling box, and perhaps a center stud as well. Splice the wires, screw the fixture to the strap or the stud, and you are done.

If you have an older home, the old fastening hardware may not line up with the new fixture. Home centers carry adapters to solve this problem.

If the new fixture's canopy (the part that snugs up to the ceiling) is smaller than the old one, you may have to paint or patch...

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Wiring details as promised yesterday.

1) It is best to run a separate, and individually fused, supply from the battery for your additional lights. This runs from the battery to the relay, then from the relay to your lights and finally back to the battery.

2) The relay is operated by a new switch that is fed from a "switched live" that is only "live" when the bike's electrics have been switched on by means of the key. Stops the lights being left on inadvertently and draining the battery. There is a convenient point to pick up a "switched live" that is the supply to the "parking light" and you can obtain the same connector quite easily to patch into the circuit. this means that there is no need to mess with the original wiring loom and it can all be put back to standard very easily.

Anyway, here's the diagram...

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No moon roof. This is a picture I snapped of the console. Thanks for the quick response!

Well if you're looking into splicing into the cargo lamp circuit that would be the VT wire. The dome light it would be YE-GN circuit. I'm not a guru when it comes to the add on stuff but I would be concerned with putting an overload on those circuits which could do something to your bcm. ...but it might not do anything to it I honestly don't know.

You're absolutely right on the overload concerns and that's why I'm running a relay to control the LED's. I ran a fused power line from the battery directly to the LED relay. Anything I splice into will be used purely for signal and not for powering the devices. This has the added benefit of letting me splice into whatever I want for a signal. The problem isn't...

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Prepare the new flex for connection by stripping about 40mm (1 1/2in) from the outer PVC protective covering at the end of the flex using a sharp knife. Avoid cutting or nicking the insulation on the colour-coded cores and separate the colour-coded conductors. The cores are connected to the flex connector by screw-down terminals. About 15mm (1/2in) of the colour-coded insulation needs to be stripped from each of the cores using wire strippers. With the coloured insulation removed, twist the strands of wire together. Cut off the power supply to the relevant circuit from the consumer unit. Remove the shade, frame and light bulb. Take off the rose cover and disconnect the cores of the flex from their terminals. If the bulb holder is metal, prepare the earth core by insulating the exposed core in a green-and-yellow sheath. Connect the new flex to the bulb-holder, following the instructions above. Thread the rose cover onto the flex. Connect the wires to the rose terminals: brown to live...
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The easiest wiring of a light switch you can do is with a single-pole standard light switch. View the following wiring diagram instructions on the wiring of a switch and replace that switch today! This article explains the two most common methods for wiring a basic light switch.


There are two methods for wiring a basic on/off (single-pole standard duty) switch to a light or a set of lights.

One method is to bring the power supply in to the light fixture outlet box, and then use what is called a “switch-leg drop” to the switch box, and the other way is to bring power in to the switch box, and then run the “switched” cable up to the light or lights. The second method is by far the best way, especially if you are using the switch to control more than one light outlet.

Method #1 (The switch-leg drop)

Step #1

Run your 2-wire power feed cable to the outlet box for the light fixture. Then run a 2-wire cable to the outlet box for the...

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Watch video of this step.

If you have access from above, you can make and install your own support brace using a length of 2x4 lumber nailed to the ceiling joists on both sides of the box location (Image 2). Position the brace directly above the ceiling box. From below, use wood screws to attach the ceiling box securely to the brace.

If you do not have access to work above the ceiling, you can install an expanding metal brace from below to support the ceiling box and fan. First, remove the existing box, then insert the brace up through the hole and secure it in position by ratcheting the mechanism into place. As the ratchet is turned from below, arms on the brace extend until they contact the ceiling joists on both sides of the hole (Image 3 demonstration). The spikes on the arms anchor securely into the wood. Some braces are available with a ceiling box attached, or you can attach the existing ceiling box to the brace.

This method also may be used to mount a...

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Latest News

Searchlight are delighted to announce that we will be exhibiting at the Light+Building Show in...

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Hi Kevin

I purchased an old 1989 cruiser, a Regal 280 Commodore, and tripped the 20 amp dockside breaker while using a hatch a/c unit and an electric kettle. I have 30 amp service in the boat.

I reset the breaker and then the AC electric system worked for a few minutes and then went dead. Neither the dockside breaker nor onboard breaker tripped, but we smelled a burning smell. I immediately unplugged the AC system and looked behind the AC panel.

At the main breaker switch where the shore power comes in, I found the white wires melted and melting damage to the black wires. I can fix all the wires, but there is also some sort of capacitor that was wired as a jumper between the green and white wires and it is not in the wiring diagram of the boat. It looks like it has been burned out. I want to know what to replace it with, and then if this overall problem is something that points to the result of another problem or if it may have been some old wires getting warm...

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Homes typically have several kinds of home wiring for lighting and power distribution, permanently installed and portable appliances, telephone, heating or ventilation system control, and increasingly for home theatre and computer networks. [1] Regulations for wiring installation vary widely around the world, with national, regional, and municipal rules sometimes in effect. Some places allow the homeowner to install some or all of the wiring in a home; other jurisdictions require that licensed electricians only install wiring.

History[edit]

Home wiring started when electric lights and telephone were first installed in homes towards the end of the 19th century. By the end of the 20th century an increased variety of systems were available for installation in homes. Electrical service is considered essential in modern homes, but most new homes will also have provision for telephone, Internet access, security, and television systems and others.

Typical...

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Feel around the headliner with your hands for the stock dome light installation mounts. If your vehicle doesn't have one or you can't locate it, choose an approximate location.

Measure the width of the ceiling. Divide this number in half and measure to the center of the ceiling and mark this location with a pencil.

Locate the interior fuse panel. If you are having difficulty the owner's manual will point you in the right direction. Remove the headliner's trim on the side of the vehicle with the fuse panel.

Cut a 1-inch slit in the future location of the dome light to feed the wire through. Bend the coat hanger into one straight piece. Tape the insulated wire to one end of it.

Push the coat hanger past the door trim under the headliner and in the direction of the dome light. Guild the hanger to the hole you have cut in the liner.

Remove the wire from the end of the hanger and pull through the hole leaving enough length to fasten to the...

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From the last bit in that video I would suggest he is using two sensors, one on top and one on the bottom, and what I am thinking is that he is using the sensors to run a timed light sequence where the LED's light up sequentially as shown (either from the top or bottom depending on which sensor is tripped). The sequence runs for about 12 seconds from first LED fade-on to last LED fade-off. I think he did a small time study to determine what will be the slowest time that a person (being him) will walk up the stairs (or down), and merely used that as a time guide.

Then programmed the light array to fade-on each LED in sequence, pause roughly 3 seconds, and start fade-off the LED's from the first LED that was switched on.

Hope that makes sense...first time I ever put my hand into explaining a electronic sequence

P.S. I will describe the sketch in words since I haven't ordered my gear yet.

Wait for sensor 1 & 2
if Sensor 1 = HIGH then sequence 1
...

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Originally Posted by

NBC

i was planning on running the cable for the rear light through the downtube, and through the left hand chainstay, using dura-ace DI2 grommets each end,
what hole size will i need for the grommets?

That's the best cable routing path, I use it myself where possible

The Di2 grommets are meant for a 6mm flush hole in the tube, which'll need a pretty careful reinforcement, but they do have a very nice exit angle

I highly recommend using coaxial cable instead of the normal scraggly wall-wart wire that comes stock with most non-Schmidt lights. I tracked down some awesome Mogami stuff meant for custom microphone wiring, it's normally a pain in the ass to get in small quantities, but a friend bought a big roll and is parting it out as a mitzvah: Coaxial Lighting Wire | Ocean Air Cycles

Originally Posted by

NBC

for the fork, i don't yet feel confident with internal routing, so i was thinking of using an old SS spoke and...

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The reduced engine power warning message can come on your car or truck. Today’s vehicles are for the most part completely electronically controlled. From every button and switch on the dash down to the ‘fly-by-wire’ throttle control system. Back in the day, before these electronically controlled throttles, everything was cable actuated. You press the gas pedal, and a cable opens the carburetor or ">throttle body. Now it’s all done through computer controlled sensors and solenoids.

With these added controls, there is even more chance of setting the check engine light on because of trouble codes or problems with these systems. Usually, the only sensor you would have on the previously cable controlled systems would be a throttle position sensor. Now there is an electronic ">accelerator pedal with multiple sensors, and a completely electronic throttle body with many internal sensors and a solenoid.

All of these need to communicate with each other properly so as to deliver...

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