Questions about: lighting - страница 7

A luxurious feature offered on many modern ceiling fans is the wireless remote control. This feature offers full operation of the fan (and any light attachment) from any location within a reasonable distance. This can be especially useful in bedrooms
This symptom is impossible without silicon electronics being involved in the delivery of power. Passive wires and windings are not capable of causing this. Common problems are common, and my first take is usually correct - a series connected old-styl
I think ThreePhaseEel and A. I. Berveleri have figured this out
If like the one we have the light is remote controlled from a small keypad or rotary control. This operates either wirelessly or wired. The actual dimming is done in the housing where the lamp and fan motor are located
I use separate detectors from lamps, and here's how I wire them. First, I use the type of sensor which has its own neutral (rather than the type which has no neutral and sits in a "switch loop". ) This is very important
Some are. You can also get transformers designed to mount into a 1/2” knockout in a junction box. The transformer proper sits outside the box
Just looking the fixture itself, and giving the probability of other points of failure. .
I have a suspended ceiling in my bathroom with 6 halogen (MR160 12V 35W) spotlights, each light has its own transformer, which I believe is to covert the voltage from 240v to 12v. Some of the fitting do not work entirely (I have checked by moving the
Some LED's just won't dim, or dim well. If it didn't say dimmable on the package, it probably isn't. G9's are typically 120v, so they shouldn't need a driver unless you bought something that is low voltage (12 or 24v)
It sounds as if the light is being controlled by a single 3-way switch. The hot lead is run to the common and two switched hots are run to the traveller terminals. You could create a master switch by adding a single pole switch that interrupts the ho