Load Bearing or Not How Can I Know For Sure


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Good answers so far, especially knowing which way the ceiling beams run. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do anything you can't undo. If you have a flat roof (typical of 60's - 70's construction), you have to check below the wall. That means you'll need to get into the crawl space. If you have a concrete floor (again, 60's - 70's style), you'll have no crawl space. That means you have to assume the wall is load bearing and modify the house accordingly. If you have a pitched roof with sheetrock in the ceilling, you can cut a hole in the sheetrock with a small keyhole saw. Not a huge hole, and one you can patch easily afterwards. You'll have about 14.5" between the joists, so you can cut a hole big enough to put your head and a flashlight into. See if there's any structure (big "W" shaped pieces of lumber or laminated beams) above the wall you want to remove. If there is, then it's load bearing.

If, after checking twice, you determine that the wall isn't load bearing, you...

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Three things:
1. Remember that the stud wall above could be supporting - just because it's a stud wall does not mean it isn't!
2. The best way to check is to lift some floorboards on the upper floor above and see if the floor joists end on the brick wall you are looking to remove below. If so, it is a supporting wall. If not, you may be OK but check the joists' full span and where the ends of them are supported.
3. Remember, the knocking down of any internal brick wall will need Building Regulations. So an even easier way is to submit the application to Building Control in the Council and then ask the appointed Building Inspector what supports are needed that would satisfy him - this way you are 100% sure!
Good luck and if you need our input further, do make...

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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

it makes for an interesting little logical puzzle, eh?
(maybe it's my color blindness, but the photos don't show up everything to me) But I took it to mean there was a second piece nailed to the joist.
as you know, there already have to be two parallel joists above the bottom plate, just as usual in any house, then the top plate, then the wall of the story above. That's sufficient to support the wall above, as usual.
the doubled piece is an *addon*, if I understand the OP
So, people don't design and build houses and then come back and add on pieces - unless something changed.

what I see is a horizontal member, oriented vertically, and scabbed on to the normal (inner) joist. Just like I did in my attic when I saw a crack in a rafter, btw.
The scab looks to be 2" less than the 2x8 or 10(?) joists.

regardless, I think we can say that the presence of the steps is irrelevant....

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so this may sound silly but you must help me , I'm 22 year old ... me and my boyfriend decided not to have sex now , because I wanted to wait more time until I lose my virginity (yes I don't want to do it now \) ... we do make-out but without having "real sex" if you understand ..

yesterday we were in a middle of something and we lost control .. he was moving fast and then i felt that he did something we were not supposed to do .. I pushed him away fast and went fast to the bathroom where I found small amount of blood .... I think he teared my hymen..... but can this happen this quick ?! because I pushed him away immediately after i felt he's in that zone .... I'm really confused and i don't even know if it the blood was from a cut or if i lost my virginity although it was not decided and it was not the right place or the right time ...

how can i know for sure ? and how far is the hymen ? I mean how deep must his penis enter to tear the hymen ???? any...

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There are various things you can check that might suggest that a given wall is or isn't load bearing, such as:

o If there is no wall or support posts in the basement beneath the wall in question, the the wall might not be load bearing

o If the joists of the floor above the wall in question run parallel to the wall, then the wall might not be load bearing

However neither of these checks is conclusive. There are really only two ways to know for sure:

o Take out the wall, and if something collapses, then it was load bearing.


o Consult a structural engineer, who can tell you not only whether the wall is load-bearing, but if it is, what would need to be done if you still want to remove the wall.

I am really big into DIY, and getting a structural engineer is one of the few things I paid someone to do in my extensive kitchen...

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