Mounting a heavy (21 Kg) fan on a shed wall

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(1) The fan as shown in the photo is upside down. Mounted in this position, the weight of the fan will pull the plate away from the beam. Turn it over so the weight will push the plate against the beam.

(2) The beam will hold the fan but the weight will apply a twisting force to the beam.

To overcome this, you should mount a board vertically from the beam to another anchor point, perhaps the steel beam directly above. Mount the fan on the vertical board, not directly on the beam.

Alternately you may be able to brace the fan mounting with a chain or other tension member between the end of the fan mount arm and the steel beam directly above.

Of course I'm not there so you'll have to identify and calculate the forces yourself.

(3) If you can, use through bolts with fender washers rather than large wood...

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I'm trying to mount a large sign - roughly 7.5 feet wide by 2.5 feet high - that's made of some kind of very hard plastic on a wall (drywall with wooden studs).

For a number of reasons, I don't want to drill through the sign. But it weighs roughly 60 lbs, so it can't be glued or anything: I clearly need to mount something else to the wall using screws in studs (or very strong drywall anchors).

Essentially, this makes the project a lot like hanging a frameless mirror - I need clips or clamps or something that can be sturdily mounted, that will hold this thing in place. But the mirror clips and j-mold stuff I've been able to find are all designed for thin, flat things (like a mirror). This sign is 1/2" thick.

What are my options? I'm open to corner holders, many metal clips around the perimeter, a j-mold-like solution, etc. Just can't involve putting holes through the sign itself.

(I did do a a fair bit of searching for dupes, but none of the excellent...

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I made a light box for this slot machine glass I got as a gift. The whole thing weighs about 10 pounds and I wanted to hang it on the wall. The box is over 16 inches wide so I could screw into 2 wood studs in the wall. This is my solution for a custom bracket that not only hangs the box but also would prevent it from coming off the wall if the box were bumped by accident.

I made the metal brackets from 16 gauge sheet metal at TechShop Detroit.

See if there's a TechShop in your area or learn more about TechShop at http://techshop.ws/

Things I used to make the brackets and my sources for them:

16 gauge sheet metal - Home DepotDykem blue layout fluid - Production Tool Supply (also available at TechShop)Metal scribe tool - Production Tool SupplyMatte black powder coating - Harbor Freight ToolsHanging wire for powder coat booth and oven - Home Depot

The project we're mounting to the wall weighs about 10 pounds. What is nice about this design is the T-shape of...

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Floor joist spacing depends on foundation. do you plan to span the 12 ft, or ? the span determines the size and spacing. walls and roof depend on style of roof. is it flat, shed, pitched, ect...? If it is just a basic shed with a 4:12 pitch 24" oc for walls and roof would be fine.
You did not mention anchoring. You need to consider wind load (lift) be sure to properly anchor the floor to the foundation, If using wood beams on pier pads they need to be anchored into the ground. the roof joists should have clips to anchor it to the walls.
check with local codes for load limits. Even a shed needs to comply to load limits to avoid collapse, or blow over. The vast difference in response is because different areas have different codes. No need to overbuild a shed, yet no sense in under building and having it destroyed by weather. Snow, rain, wind, ect.. all determine building requirements.
You may want to consider pressure treated 4x6 skids on a compacted...

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I did the exact same thing a few months ago. 51" Samsung plasma, probably weighed the same amount if it's a recent model (2013—last year they made them now that they're bowing out?).

It was pretty easy. 2 people is ideal, though. Obviously find the studs (I didn't use a stud finder but I would trust @omnivus). Make sure you know damn well where you want the TV because it would be annoying to have to do it all again. Make sure you'll be comfortable looking at it where it is without craning your neck, google to see what height people mount them at, etc. Check if the mount has a tilt and whether you want that. I did because I'm looking up at it from a bed.

Oh and I had an issue where I couldn't plug old stuff into the AV ports at the back because the TV was so close to the wall, so I took it off and put a couple of spacers when screwing the wall mount to the TV (they came with the mount).

You'll probably need 2 people to lift the TV on the mount, but once you get to that...

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