New construction wiring a mid-line receptacle to a switch


First -- you just need a solid place to attach the box to. A 4x4 post cemented into the ground in the correct place certainly qualifies! (It also means you won't have one of those disasters where someone nails a conduit-supported outdoor receptacle with a piece of lawn equipment and the conduit breaks, leaving exposed wiring around)

Second, you'll want a weatherproof box (they all have conduit knockouts) and a "while in use" bubble cover as this is a wet location. (You may need a reducer, though, if your conduit is too big for the weatherproof box to fit onto it.) Use the same material for the box as the existing conduit -- metal boxes for metal conduit, PVC boxes for plastic conduit. The box should have holes on it which can be screwed to the 4x4 -- if the hole spacing is too wide for the post, simply use a piece of scrap 2x6 as a mounting-bracket.

Third, you'll be putting a single 6-30R receptacle in this weatherproof box, and using a matching 6-30P plug on the...

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If power is going to the switch first, you'll place the hot conductor on one screw of the switch, with the conductor on the other screw going to the hot (generally copper colored) screw of the GFCI on the line side. The neutrals in the switch box will be wire nutted together, with the neutral conductor leading to the receptacle box going to the silver screw on the line side. Grounding is still done as common. If power is going to the receptacle box first, you'll have to run a switch-leg. In this case, the neutral entering the receptacle box will be placed on the silver screw on the line side, but the hot will be wire nutted to a new piece of Romex. Personally, I nut the black (hot) conductor to the white that heads up to the switch (of course, you tape the white conductor over with black electrical tape on both ends). Both the white and black in the switch box are landed on the screws of the switch, and back in the receptacle box, the black lands on the hot screw (generally copper...

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In the diagram you link to there is no neutral in the switch box so you cannot start there to wire a receptacle. You would need 3-wire romex + gnd (black, white, red, gnd) to a carry a neutral from the line cable in the fixture box to the switch box. You would use B for the always hot, R for the switched hot, W for the neutral.

EDIT There are several ways to power this receptacle using standard ordinary wiring but you cannot start from the switch if is wired as in the diagram because there is no neutral there.

One way would be to run another cable (2-wire + gnd) from the ceiling box to the receptacle. This would go in the attic to the top plate above the receptacle where you would drill a hole and run the cable down to the receptacle box. The box currently there would have been removed, the wire pulled through the opening and into an "old work" box and the box inserted into the hole. Then install the receptacle. The cable you have right now from the switch to the...

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THE WOODLANDS, Texas--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Sterling Construction Company, Inc. (NasdaqGS:STRL) (“Sterling” or the "Company”) today announced that its Texas Sterling Construction Co. (“TSC”) subsidiary is the apparent low bidder on a $26.6 million project in Frisco, Texas. The City of Frisco Main Street project consists of widening a three mile section of Main Street from FM 423 to Dallas Parkway from four lanes to six lanes, while also improving the road’s storm drainage. In addition, the project includes all the preliminary infrastructure required for future underground electric transmission lines as well as over 14,000 linear feet of water distribution lines. The project is scheduled to begin later this month, and is expected to be completed by the spring of 2019.

Joe Cutillo, Sterling’s Chief Executive Officer, commented, “We are pleased to have been selected by the City of Frisco to increase the capacity of an existing section of Main...

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–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work–

This page contains wiring diagrams for adding a new light fixture using an existing receptacle as the source. Diagrams include adding a light from a switched receptacle and tapping an always-hot outlet. Different wiring arrangements are included to allow for either the light or the switch to come first in the circuit.

Add a Light from a Switched Receptacle

The wiring in this diagram is for adding a new light fixture to a switched receptacle, i.e. one that is hot only when a switch is on. These are commonly used to turn a table or floor lamp on and off from a wall switch.

New 2-wire cable is run from the receptacle to the new light fixture. At the receptacle the wires are removed and each one is spliced to the new cable and back to the receptacle with a pigtail splice. At the light fixture box the black wire connects to the hot terminal, the white connects...

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How Does Switch Wiring Work?

The way a light switch is wired depends on whether the power comes into the light box or the switch box first. If power comes into the switch box first, the neutral white line from the service panel and the white line that leads to the light are spliced together. The hot black wire from the power source travels through the switch and from there to the light. Flipping the switch interrupts the flow of electricity to the light, turning it off and on.

If the line carrying power comes into the light box first, the circuit must still be wired so the switch interrupts the black line. The white wire from the service panel is wired to one side of the light. The black wire is spliced to a black wire in a cable that runs to the switch. That cable's white wire is also connected to the switch and runs back to and is connected to the light. Flipping the switch interrupts the flow of electricity, and the switch does its job.

Because the...

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If you want the receptacles on full time and the new light switched now, you will need to bypass the switch to the outlets by wire nutting the wires together that were being switched , it will be 1 wire then really even though wire nutted. If you add a 3rd wire/ pigtail to that wire nutted connection you just used to bypass the switch, it can be sent to the switch and from the switch to the new ceiling fixture and will have to be ran new, running the new wires up into the attic through the firebreaks inside the walls between the walls studs from the switches location is the hardest part really,(my least favorite part!) you will also need to splice into the neutral leg to send with the hot leg for the new fixture as well or you are sending only 1 hot leg to the new light fixture and no return path to neutral, the opposite side of power from which you began being the hot leg at the switch.If neutrals not there at the switch, I would just run a new circuit with a new breaker ,...

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I get many questions regarding adding an outlet or a receptacle from a switch box. This question comes up fairly often, and causes a lot of frustration for our visitors. Here is the most recent question on this subject:


The power is connected to my light and then to the switch with #14 wire. Black white and ground. I want to add a receptacle, how would I wire it from the switch? I want to run wires from switch box to receptacle box?


You cannot wire this outlet by connecting it to the switch box in this situation. This light outlet and switch are wired as a switch leg drop, and this leaves you without a neutral wire at the switch. Let me show you with a diagram.

Note that the power comes into the light fixture outlet box. The neutral is connected to the light fixture only. The hot (black) wire coming in is spliced to the white wire going to the switch (and is identified as such with black tape or felt marker as shown). The...

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Selecting and applying wiring devices.

Receptacles, switches, plates, and cord connector bodies are available in a wide range of sizes, ratings, and styles with specific features and characteristics to meet most design/application requirements.

Grades of wiring devices

Manufacturer's catalogs use a variety of terms to indicate the quality or grade of wiring devices offered. For example, the term "economy," "competitive," "intermediate," or "residential" are sometimes used to indicate that the device is economically priced or designed for light-duty applications. Terms such as "specification" or "super-specification" would indicate devices that are of better quality, designed for greater reliability and usually higher priced. However, none of these terms has an official status with standardizing agencies such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL), Factory-Mutual (FM), Electrical Testing Laboratories (ETL), or the National Electrical Manufacturers Association...

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[Summary]How To Wire a Switch/Receptacle Combo Device : Electrical Online Lately I have had many site visitors asking me to write an article on how to wire a duplex switch and receptacle combination device. While the switch/receptacle combo device is not comm


How To Wire a Switch/Receptacle Combo Device : Electrical Online

Lately I have had many site visitors asking me to write an article on how to wire a duplex switch and receptacle combination device. While the switch/receptacle combo device is not common in the home, they have several unique applications where they can be very useful!

As with any electrical project, make sure that you take all necessary precautions, most important being to make sure you shut off the power. Always review the safety page on our website.

Wire Combo Switch Outlet with Constant Power to Outlet Video

Mark Donovan of shows how...

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How to wire up an electrical receptacle:

Here we illustrate basic connections seen in the field for the black, white neutral or grounded conductor), and ground wire when hooking up an electrical receptacle (wall plug or "outlet").

We describe how to wire an electrical receptacle by making the right connections between individual electrical wires and the proper screw or clamp connectors on the electrical receptacle device itself.

We also describe connecting the ground wire between the circuit grounding conductor, receptacle ground screw, and the electrical box (if metal boxes are used).

Watch out: mis-wired electrical receptacles are dangerous. Electrical wiring should be performed by a licensed, trained electrician and should comply with the National Electrical Code and local regulations. This article series...

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The easiest place to install your switch is directly above the receptacle you want to split. This eliminates the potential problem of running your wire through wall studs, across the ceiling or under the floor. For this example, we will be installing the switch above the receptacle, but you can place it wherever you need to in your situation. If you need guidance on how to run wire through a ceiling or under a floor, see the links in Resources below.

So, the first thing you will have to do is find the circuit that is delivering the power to the receptacle. Toggle the breakers until you find the right one. Leave the circuit breaker OFF.

Before you remove the existing receptacle, use the voltage tester to double-check that you got the right circuit. Now that that is confirmed you can remove the receptacle's faceplate and the two screws securing the receptacle to the wall box. Gently pull the receptacle out of the box using the top and bottom brackets.


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