One cable, two circuits, 240V, Germany

This will clear-up a lot of mysteries of the solar panel.
Many solar panels produce 16v - 18v when lightly loaded, while other 12v solar panels will not charge a 12v battery.
Some panels say "nominal voltage," some do not give any value other than 6v or 12v, and some specify the wrong voltage. You can't work with vague specifications. You need to know accurate details to charge a battery from a solar panel.
There are 3 things you have to know before buying a panel or connecting a panel to a battery.

2. The voltage of the panel when delivering the rated current. Called the RATED VOLTAGE

1. The Unloaded Voltage is the voltage produced by the panel when it is lightly loaded. This voltage is very important because a 12v battery will produce a "floating voltage" of about 15v when it is fully charged and it will gradually rise to this voltage during the...

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Based on the OpenEVSE project


OpenEVSE Store

Arduino Electric Vehicle Charging Station "Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment" (EVSE) implementing the J1772 protocol.

J1772 is used in the current generation of Electric Vehicles and Plug ins such as the Nissan LEAF and Chevy Volt.

The EVSE advertises the Maximum current available to the EV with a 1khz pilot signal. The Duty Cycle of the pilot sets the available current the EV may draw. The EVSE also functions as a safety device, the 240V AC lines of the J1772 plug are not hot until the EVSE and EV command the start of charging. The EVSE also functions as A ground fault interrupt device (GFCI).

Parts list and Schematics are attached as...

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I am pretty sure that everyone understood that you meant 'split bus' panel.

As John Nelson pointed out, the set of breakers on the top half of the panel _together_ comprise your main breaker. These are what limit the current flow through your service entrance conductors.

You have already made changes which increase the 'size' of this main breaker, which means that your service entrance conductors could potentially be overloaded.

However when you increased one breaker from 30A to 50A, you took the other 30A breaker out of service, which sort of balances things out.

Now you want to put additional load into service.

This is something that could in theory be done, but is likely not allowed in practise.

Several things need to be evaluated:

1) The condition and amp rating of the service entrance conductors.

2) The total calculated load for your home.

3) The calculated load for the new circuits that you want to add.

If the...

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Introducing ClipperCreek's Share2™ enabled HCS-40 bundle. Share2™ allows charging station owners to install two 32A, Level 2 charging stations on one 40A circuit. The Share2™ is an inexpensive solution for any location looking for an easy way to double the number of charge points without running additional 240V circuits. The Share2™ enabled HCS-40 will offer full power if one vehicle is requesting a charge and automatically splits the power if a second vehicle requests a charge at the same time. When one of the vehicles completes charging, the other station reverts to full power for the second vehicle. The Share2™ enabled HCS-40 has ClipperCreek’s standard best in class product features, including a three year warranty, a fully sealed, rugged NEMA 4 enclosure, 25 feet of charge cable, and a separate, low profile wall mount connector holster. Works with all plug-in vehicles including the Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf, Fiat 500e, BMW i3, Kia Soul, Ford C Max, etc. For a complete list of all...
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My house was constructed in 1980 in the City of New York. About twenty-five years ago, I installed a new 29,200 BTU Carrier A/C through the wall of the house. The unit was rated at 208v, drawing 15.1 Amps.

The house was built with a “standard-sized” A/C sleeve through the wall, serviced by a solid-copper-wire, steel-armored, 12/2-BX cable, with a single-pole 120v, 20-Amp dedicated circuit breaker receptacle next to the sleeve.

I ripped-out the “standard-sized” sleeve, replacing it with an oversized sleeve designed to house the new A/C. However, as to the original solid-copper-wire, steel-armored, 12/2-BX cabled, 120v, single-pole 20-Amp dedicated circuit breaker receptacle, I replaced it with a new 240v receptacle. Then I ran a second solid-copper-wire, steel-armored, 12/2-BX cable from the steel main-panel box back to the new 240v receptacle (A distance of about 35-feet!), and then I installed a new 20-Amp double-pole dedicated circuit breaker in the steel main-panel...

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I'm reconfiguring my kitchen and moving some stuff around, which necessitates moving some outlets and switches. This is my first attempt at any kind of electrical work, so finding weird things makes me nervous.

It appears that my house (built in 1905 and remodeled several times before I bought it in 2004) used to have an electric oven. It now has a gas oven and a 110V 20 amp circuit that is supposed to power the electrical part of the oven (a clock and the ignition for the burners and oven) and a microwave/hood combo.

When I took off the oven faceplate, I found a 240V box behind it with big white and black multi-stranded wires (and a ground). It appears that someone used one strand of each of the big wires and attached that to the outlet's terminal screws. Then they used wire nuts and pigtails to run normal 12/2 (w/ ground) wire up to the microwave/hood.

How should I deal with the 240V cable that runs from the breaker box to the outlet? Do I need to pull it out...

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Since you're dealing with a 50 ampere circuit, you'll probably have to look at transfer, or double throw safety switches. You could look for a 3 pole version and also switch the neutral, but I don't think that's a requirement. These devices will likely be quite expensive.

Basically you'll install two NEMA 10-50R receptacles, one for the dryer and one for the welder (Or a NEMA 10-50R for the welder, and a NEMA 10-30R for the dryer). Then you'll wire up the transfer/safety switch "backwards" so that it switches the load, rather than switching the line. Something like this...

Grounding conductors not shown. Don't forget to properly ground all equipment.

Notice when the switch is in the "UP" position, the welder will have power. When the switch is in the "DOWN" position, the dryer will have power. And when the switch is in the middle, power is disconnected from...

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For clarification - a multiwired circuit is where you have two 120v circuits connected to one breaker such as a double pole breaker. That is perfectly legal, what you cannot do is use one side of a double pole breaker to feed one (non multiwired) circuit. That is not legal. If you need further clarification on this, I will be perfectly happy to explain it further for you.

Here is an example for you - Say you want to use 12-3/w ground to run two circuits to the far end of your house. What you would do is connect the wiring to a double pole 20amp breaker (yes this is a 240v breaker) - but this cable has four wires, so that would be two hots a neutral and a ground. At the other end of the circuit, you use the two hots to feed two separate 20amp circuits, however each one shares the same neutral. This is a multiwired circuit that is connected to a 240v (double pole) breaker.

There is no confusion here, what you were told was not accurate - you can use this for 120v...

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In a 120/240V single split phase system, the two ungrounded (hot) legs are actually connected to the secondary winding of the distribution transformer. The transformer actually steps down the voltage to 240 volts, so the two legs are a complete 240 volt circuit.

The grounded (neutral) conductor is connected to the center of the coil (center tap), which is why it provides half the voltage.

Therefore, if a device requires only 240V, only two ungrounded (hot) conductors are required to supply the device. If a device runs on 120V, one ungrounded (hot) conductor and one grounded (neutral) conductor are needed. If a device needs both 120V and 240V, then two ungrounded (hot) conductors and one grounded (neutral) conductor must be used.

If you connect a load between the two ungrounded legs of the circuit, you can see how you have a complete circuit through the coil.

If you connect a load between one of the ungrounded conductors, and the grounded...

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I AM a pro (Communications Contractor), and I'm a little unsure. As a general rule, by code, mixing low (48V and less) and high voltage wiring is not allowed. BUT the Code does not require any clearance between low and high voltage cables. Repeat: CABLES. A cable is a factory made assembly of insulated conductors having an overall jacket. Romex is cable; zip cord is not. BUT electrical inspectors generally will not allow running, for instance, phone and romex cables through the same hole in a joist, even though they will allow contact elsewhere!

BUT (around here, MidAm) HVAC folks commonly run T-stat and power through the same conduit, and that's ok, even though they are low/high voltage. The rationale is that if wire that is rated for high voltage use is used for the low voltage application, it is considered to be a high voltage circuit. The reasoning is that the insulation on type CM cable (communications - low voltage) melts at a lower temperature than the insulation...

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