Question about running new drain pipes in Laundry room

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Beneath that drain is a trap (Sometimes called a 'J', or 'P' trap). When the trap has water in it, it prevents the sewer gas from coming back up the drain.

You don't need to pour a lot of water into the drain, just enough to fill the bottom curve of the trap. A cup or so should be plenty. Just do it more often, to keep the gases from getting through.

Pouring bleach into the drain will help keep it clean, and free of mildew, but you're going to want to flush it after a few minutes. This will not NOT help with the sewer gas though.

I'm surprised you were told you only needed to pour water into it every 6 months - I recommend doing it at least once a week - not only to keep it full, but also to keep the water in the trap fresh. Leaving water to set for up to 6 months can make it stagnate, and allow algae or mildew growth.

Water evaporates - you're going to lose water from the trap due to evaporation, if nothing else. During the winter, when you're running your...

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I'm always looking for a better solution, so I've checked hundreds of reviews online for how other people handle this problem and what lint catchers they use. So you don't have to spend that much time researching, I'm giving you the results of my research here:

Metal mesh: I use this kind because it seems to work best for me and looking at many reviews and the comments I've had from my readers, I think this is true for most people. Metal tends to catch more lint than nylon mesh and is easy to replace. They are inexpensive, but sometimes hard to find, so I buy mine in bulk from Amazon.

Pros: inexpensive, catches more lint, easy to replace. Cons: sometimes hard to find (I buy in bulk from Amazon), metal can corrode if it is submerged in water too long.

Fabric mesh: I've tried these and they did not catch as much lint. However, on some reviews, I saw that people use two of them together to make them catch more. Then you take out the inner one when it is full and replace...

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If you have running water in your home, here are a few important things you need to know about your drains!

How to Unclog a Sink and Prevent Clogs

Let plenty of water run down the drain by keeping the faucet open for up to a half a minute each day. Sink lines commonly plug because not enough water is flushed through them, especially after the garbage disposal is used. Run the faucet for about five seconds after you turn off the disposal. This helps flush the line. Never pour hot oil or grease down the sink—whether or not you have a disposal. About once a month fill the sink to the top with very hot water. Using a fork or other kitchen utensil so you don’t scald your hand, remove the sink’s plug. As the clean hot water swirls down through the sink line, it takes much of the grease buildup with it.

To Keep a Toilet from Clogging

Don’t put anything foreign down the toilet except toilet paper. Items such as dental floss, Q-Tips, baby wipes, or any other...
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When the drainage from one fixture backs up into another, it means that the two lines are connected on one branch line before it enters the main drain. Water always seeks its own level so it will come up in a lower fixture or another sink at the same level if the branch line connecting the fixtures has a blockage after the connection.

Sink lines get filled up with lint, grease and soap scum from the fixtures. As the water goes down the drain, a film is left on the inside of the piping, eventually building up so thick that they reduce the internal diameter of the drain and slow the water flow. A hand snake is designed to open minor clogs in small traps or branch lines. A hand snake can punch a hole in a clog, but it is often like punching a hole in gelatin. The sludge builds up so thick, when you pull the snake back the sludge just fills back in. Hand snakes are not designed to open piping under the floor, so if the clog is there, you'll need a professional...

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This may not be a clog problem at all.

The house is 55 yrs old which tells me that the line in question may be an 1-1/2" cast iron drain line.

In the mid to late 80's the appliance industry began using a higher volume pump in washing machines, which in turn prompted the plumbing industry to change the standard size of a laundry standpipe from 1-1/2" to 2". To the untrained eye this may appear as a minor change but in fact a 2" line has nearly twice the volume of an 1-1/2" line.

1-1/2" cross sectional area = 1.76sq.in
2" cross sectional area = 3.142cu.in.

In the final analysis I think what you will find is that the size of the line itself may be marginal for the discharge rate of modern laundry appliances, which in itself would result in a minor backup as the machine pumps out. This problem is further complicated because the original pipe is most likely cast iron. While cast iron is a fantastic material for DWV piping it has one minor drawback. In...

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Wrapping exposed pipes with foam pipe insulation helps prevent freezing.

Winter has arrived, and that means bundling up to try to keep warm. You might not realize it, but the pipes on your house need protection from the cold as well if the mercury drops down into the 20s F.

Here are some tips on how to prevent your pipes from freezing and some tips on how to thaw them out safely if they do.

How to Keep Pipes from Freezing

How to Thaw Frozen Pipes

Cut-off valve on copper pipe

Water Cut-Off: Locate the water main cut-off valve, and have a water cut-off key handy before attempting to thaw out frozen pipes. Open Faucet: Open the faucet the pipe runs to before thawing a frozen pipe to allow water to flow through the pipe and relieve any built-up pressure in the pipe. Heat Frozen Pipe: Use a hair dryer, heat lamp, electric heat tape, or portable space heater to thaw frozen pipes that haven’t burst. Start from the interior faucet end of the pipe,...
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1) Assuming this is the lowest drain in the house (i.e. no floor drains at lower elevation or they are backing up too), then you probably have a partial blockage in your main sewer pipe - possibly under the house, possibly in the run to the street. I am also assuming this is happening when the washing machine is emptying, or maybe toilet flushing - not just when the shower is used.

2) It is possible a Plumber with a snake can clear it - cost about $100-150 typically. If just shower use causing this, plumber is your answer because the blockage is in the shower's drain. Search the List for local plumbers and reviews. This is also be true if you have equally low or lower floor drains further "downstream" on your sewer pipe and they are NOT backing up - because that would mean the blockage is in the sewer pipe between the shower and the drain(s) that are NOT backing up, which a snake should be able to clear. Garage floor drain would count only if connected to sewer - some are...

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The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.

#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.

#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.

#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.

#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not...

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I want to put a utility sink in the basement with a tank and pump to discharge overhead. Almost exactly above the sink location in the basement is our washing machine upstairs. It discharges through a rubber hose with a 180 degree bend in the end, which goes into a PVC pipe that extends upward about 4' from the floor (conveniently, it's not buried in the wall).

I hope I can replace part of this pipe with a larger diameter into which I can put both the existing washing machine drain and a new pipe from the sink downstairs. Certainly, this is physically possible, there's room for a larger pipe and easy access for cutting.

Just wondering if there is anything weird that could go wrong. For example, if the present pipe (I think it's 1.5" nominal) is big enough for the washer, would 3" pipe with a reducer to 1.5" be OK? Or would the reducer be enough of an obstruction to threaten...

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Laundry room copper pipe question.

Back story I do some maintenance work on foreclosed homes. Mostly cleaning up trash, mowing overgrown yards, trimming bushes/ trees, etc. I try to stay out of the houses and normally would refuse a inside work order But this company is in a bind and treats me well so..

The work order I received said "cap gas line in laundry room"

I am 99.999999999999% sure this is not a gas line. I have never seen this set up before so I have no idea what the copper pipe does. I am guessing a drain for something. Hot water heater maybe? When I send the invoice back I need to know exactly what I am looking at in case they want to argue. Or I could be wrong, it happens often.

The house is 5-10 years old and located in Live Oak CA.

__________________
I wont cast the first stone
or leave the first mark
but I will leave a lasting...

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In this post: Whether you’re trying to decide whether or not to have a second floor laundry room and want to know the pros and cons of it or are looking for tips on preventing flooding in the second floor laundry room you already have, this post’s for you!

As with open shelving in the kitchen, second floor laundry rooms seem to divide people squarely into one of two camps – those who love it and those who are adamantly against it. When we added on to our house a few years ago, I had several people advise me to rethink my plan to move the laundry room upstairs but in the end I decided to go ahead with it. I’m so glad I did – I love it! It’s been about four years since we made the move to an upstairs laundry room so I thought I’d share my experience, including the pros and cons and some important tips for preventing everyone’s biggest fear about a second floor laundry room – flooding! Hopefully this post will be helpful to those of you considering an upstairs laundry room as...

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You can't just buy a washing machine, bring it home, and hope it works. These dutiful appliances need to be hooked up to a water supply and draining system first.

In a basic laundry room, supply pipes branch off to provide hot and cold water to both the utility sink and the washing machine. The machine's drain hose clips to the side of the utility sink, which has a P-trap that connects to a house drain line.

A washing machine needs hot and cold water and a drain. You'll need to install washing machine valves, which look like outdoor hose bibs but point straight down. The washer drain hose hooks to a standpipe or a sink, which has a P-trap that connects to a house drain line. The drain for either of these must slope down at a rate of 1/4 inch per running foot.

Many washing machines are self-leveling. Grab the machine by its control panel at the top rear, pull forward to slightly tilt the machine, and let it drop back solidly on all four feet. Adjust the front...

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Drain Cleaners That Work TIPS

Backed Up Bathtub

Years ago, I injured my right heel coaching my daughter's soccer team. It was slow to heal and if I walked on it too much it ached. A hot bath temporarily provided some relief.

I needed to soak in the tub and went to my kids' bathroom as my wife and I only had a walk-in shower in our bathroom.

I filled the tub and relaxed. When finished, I moved the drain lever and absolutely nothing happened - I mean not even the slightest movement of water.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local drain cleaning companies.

Plunger First

Let me add here I'm a master plumber. I've been one for decades. I know all about blocked drains and why they happen.

Why my kids didn't tell me the tub wouldn't drain is beyond mental comprehension.

I tried to plunge the line and nothing but black gunk came backwards through the piping into the bathtub. An attempt to snake the line yielded no...

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If it were me, I'd install a new sanitary tee in the main drain, just above the existing sanitary tee. I'd have the standpipe for the washer come down into a P-trap, and connect the other end to the new tee.

However, you'll have to make sure the standpipe is at least 18" above the trap weir. If that height cannot be maintained, you'll have to move some things around.

I'm also not sure if a proper P-trap will fit in the stud bay, so you'll have to measure to verify. The minimum length of a trap arm is two pipe diameters. So if you're using 2" pipe, that's 4" from trap weir to the sanitary tee.

Then I'd have the trap from the washtub, connect to the existing sanitary tee.

Basically, something like...

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Hi, I'm Viliam's wife. Can you please help me settle a little dispute. I would like to connect my laundry drain hose directly into the sink's drain pipe, because I hate it having to stick into my laundry tub. All for aesthetic reasons. I would like to put in a nice counter with a nice sink, etc. and have the hose concealed in the cabinetry.

Now...is this O.K.?

Some plumbers (and V.) say that it's not good ,what for?...and others say sure go ahead.

What is the forum's opinion on this?

Am I crazy for wanting this?

Help meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.............................,

Dazed and Confused

P>S> You guys sound like you have a lot of fun here at Breaktime.

How many girls belong to your club? ...or...is this just a guy...

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I had a question about how to cover the pipes and electrical receptacles located behind the washer and dryer in a laundry room.

Usually, there is a spaghetti-like conglomeration of supply and drain pipes, wires, conduit, and receptacles in laundry rooms that builders do not cover up. But it is possible to build a second, or false, wall in front of this mess, effectively shielding it from view. This is not a real wall in the sense of being structural.

Even normal interior walls that are not load-bearing do have some structural properties--and the false wall has even less than that.

1. Determine the Thickness of the "Bump Out"

Measure the distance of the item (pipe, electrical box, etc.) that protrudes the farthest and then add another half an inch. You don't want the pipe touching the false wall.

2. What Will Be Your Framework?

Chances are good that the thickness of a 2x4 set "on end" (about 3 1/2 inches) may raise your wall past the...

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If you get a sewer smell when you are using the dishwasher on a kitchen sink, it often means there is a blockage in the vent or the drain of the pipes inside the wall. If you have a clogged vent on the roof, then the back-pressure that is created when you try to put water into the pipe, will slow the water down and it will begin to clog the pipe. In order for water to enter a pipe, it has to have an open vent on the roof of the house. This is a pipe that is attached to the drains, but instead of running down to the city, runs up to the roof. Since both water and air take up volume in the pipe, in order to put the water into the pipe, you have to push the air aside. The vent redirects the pressure up to the roof at the same speed the water is flowing. So if either the drain or the vent are clogged, then there is no place for the water to go without first forcing the air back into the room, which is combined with sewer...

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bad plumbing, or dried out s-bends.

i recall doing some remedial demolition around a 17 yr old development site (2000 olympics village).

we were in the middle of yet another drought, and one day…the entire town STUNK of sewerage.

phonecalls, abuse, tears, people running around willy nilly passing the buck, pointing fingers, blame blame blame…investigations, interrogations, much name calling…

consultations, meetings, nothing worked.

my suggestion was to turn on all the outdoor firehydrants for a few hours.

someone finally listened, because, well, im just an idiot on a jackhammer, what would i know?

so we experimented in one particularly bad courtyard.

smell was gone the next day.

so we opened up the rest of the hydrants and taps and poured what water we could find down every open drain grate.

smell cured, for the price of a few thousand litres of water.

no-one paid me the same way they would have paid their...

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I've been curious over the idea of new washing machines being the cause of drain issues.
While not having come across any specifications as to the gallons per minute ( gpm ) discharge from one washing machine to another and whether new versus old .... can't see if this does have any effect.

However .... I can see an older washer may have a diminished output if there is lint buildup in the pump or lint trap ( if equipped ).

Last year I helped someone install a brand new top load washer that replaced the 20 + year old top load washer attached to the existing original washer drain in a home that's about 30 years old.
From that day to present there has been zero issues with a new washer having supposed higher volume discharge.

Recently someone I know purchased a home that had some remodeling done. This included a new remodeled main floor laundry room .... previously a small bedroom which backed onto a 2 piece powder room.

The first time the washer...

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By Todd Fratzel on Plumbing

Sewer Smell – Washing Machine Plumbing Trap Problem

Recently a good friend of mine asked me what might be causing his laundry room to have a sewer smell. Obviously this was a serious problem that needed to be corrected immediately. Not only are sewer gasses an unpleasant experience but they can be a safety concern. If you smell sewer gasses in your home you should try and diagnose the problem sooner than later.

I started quizzing my friend about any recent changes in their home that might have contributed to the sewer smell. He asked me if washing machine mold might be causing the smell or some type of dead rodent.

He wasn’t sure that anything had changed other than they had recently purchased a new washing machine. I knew there was likely something wrong with the plumbing trap (p-trap) which was accounting for the sewer gas smell.

The culprit ended up being the washing machine hose that was incorrectly installed by...

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I have fit together some variations of washing machine pipes and photographed them to show you the most common configurations. I have used all of these arrangements, both in stud walls and exposed in unfinished basements. There are of course many other legal set ups. Send me a photo of yours if you want me to critique your DIY plumbing or make suggestions.

Let's start with the basics.

The piping in the photo on the left represents a laundry sink drain, while the photo on the right depicts a washing machine's stand pipe. In each A is the vent, B is the trap arm, and C is the drain.

You only have to remember this, the sanitary tee that serves each fixture is the place where the trap arm, drain, and vent come together. The trap arm, (the horizontal pipe down stream of the p-trap) always flows into a sanitary tee. The fixture's drain and vent each begin at its sanitary tee. So, it is not a drain till it is down stream of the sanitary tee. We may...

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