Range plug prongs are slightly exposed - Is that dangerous?


Is it dangerous? Yes. One day you might reach behind the range for some reason and accidentally touch two prongs. A range is normally 220 to 240 volts -- you'd get a nasty shock. Probably not enough to do serious damage, but I wouldn't want to try it to find out, and if someone had a weak heart, it could be literally fatal.

I've had plenty of times that I've dropped something behind cabinets and went feeling for it, so the idea that months or years from now you might forget all about this and go reaching back there is not implausible. I'd be particularly worried about a pet or a small child. Not only would they have no idea that this plug is dangerous, but they're smaller and more vulnerable.

It won't hurt you if you don't touch it (with your hands or an object), so it's not a cause for panic -- I'm not saying you should evacuate the house and call 911 to send a hazmat team. But yeah, I would definitely get this fixed.

Before spending a bunch of money, if...

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there is a lot of miss information about polarized plugs.

basically if you have a lamp, the switch is on the hot side, so when you turn it off you can't shock yourself.
Or if the toaster is "off" then sticking a knife in it won't shock you.

No you can't wire up the neutral to the chassie, because there is a chance that the outlet was wired backwards.
Also, some equipment like small transformers, the "neutral" will be wired up on the inside coil closest to the core, to minimize capacitive coupling between the "hot" and the low voltage output.

If filling off the larger plug creates a safety hazard, then it should have been grounded with a proper 3 prong plug in the first place, or the manufacturer should have used a DPST switch to turn it off. example being the toaster and an outlet wired...

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You haven't told us which country you live in, or what this wire connects to. (It makes a difference if it's say, a refrigerator or microwave oven, as opposed to a small room fan.) Still, if it's connected to your mains (115/230V) power, as others have mentioned, your friend was right: that wire's a serious accident waiting to happen.

In addition to the excellent answers you've already received, let me add a couple things that I hope will be relevant not only to you, but others in similar situations:

Sanity check

Whenever I find myself pondering things like the following, a sanity check is surely needed:

My friend claims that this is highly dangerous, but I don't think that touching it would be lethal

I think an important test is that you've a) been told it's dangerous by someone who presumably cares about you, b) you have willfully rejected that advice, yet c) you haven't actually tried touching it yet! (DON'T try touching it. Please....

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Harmonious Discord is probably going to accuse me of fear mongering again, but "enough to scare you" is enough to kill you. It's not terribly likely to kill you, but it can kill you.

Electricity kills you generally in one of two ways. Low level shocks (the kind you would get from a misbehaving kitchen sink) have a chance of interfering with your heartbeat, and can throw your heart into fibrillation. Your heart has kind of a funny design that if you get it into this state, it will happily stay there until something (like someone with a portable defibrillator) comes along and gets it out of it. It takes a surprisingly small amount of current to throw your heart into fibrillation, but it is very hit and miss. Your heart is much more sensitive during certain times of its cycle than others to this sort of thing, so most of the time a person just gets scared and that's the end of it. Once in a while, though, you catch the heart just right in its rhythm and then...

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There's a simple explanation here:


So, IMHO, the danger to your daughter is minor. The thing you need to worry about is her getting in the back and touching hot tubes.

The danger to you is slightly greater, as, if the amp melts down and drops 120V on the chassis, that's connected to the ground in your cord, which is connected to your strings..... and the amp is unlikely to melt down unless you're playing it.

All of this assumes your living room carpet is flooded with water, or you have a death grip on a cold water pipe... or some stupid appliance that has a grounded case. If you're not grounded, you can touch hot wires all day and no current will flow. That is, in most cases (PTP!), 3-prong plugs increase the opportunity to get electrocuted by providing more available surfaces at ground potential.

To be really clear, it would be silly to add a grounded steel case to an amp in a wooden cab...

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Here's my situation. I just moved in to my new house last week. I went to hook the dryer up and noticed my dryer's power cord has three prongs, but my wall outlet (220) has 4 holes. So I started doing some research.

Most places state that you can simply buy a 4 prong power cord and replace the power cord on the dryer with the new 4 prong cord. For some reason this just doesn't seem right.

I would rather buy an adapter that plugs onto the end of my 3 prong converting it to a 4 prong. Do these exist?

Anyone have any experience with doing this? My last dryer I blew up messing with the wires in the back so I would like to avoid that if possible.

Oh yeah I'm in America, so if your not and you have weird power disregard this...

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Type D is used almost exclusively in India and Nepal. (Click here for a complete list of all countries that use type D)

India has standardized on a plug which was originally defined in British Standard 546 (the standard in Great Britain before 1947). This 5 amp plug has three round prongs that form a triangle. The central earth pin is 20.6 mm long and has a diameter of 7.1 mm. The 5.1 mm line and neutral pins are 14.9 mm long, on centres spaced 19.1 mm apart. The centre-to-centre distance between the grounding pin and the middle of the imaginary line connecting the two power pins is 22.2 mm. Type M, which has larger pins and is rated at 15 amps, is used alongside type D for larger appliances in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. Some sockets can take both type M and type D plugs.

Incidentally, there is an unintended compatibility between type D sockets and various European plugs. Although the centres of the prongs of a Europlug...

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Let's start with what the holes in an outlet do. When you look at a normal 120-volt outlet in the United States, there are two vertical slots and then a round hole centered below them. The left slot is slightly larger than the right. The left slot is called "neutral," the right slot is called "hot" and the hole below them is called "ground." The prongs on a plug fit into these slots in the outlet.

If you have read How Batteries Work, you know that electricity must flow in a circuit. In a battery, electricity flows from one terminal of the battery to the other. In a house outlet, power flows from hot to neutral. The appliance you plug into an outlet completes the circuit from the hot slot to the neutral slot, and electricity flows through the appliance to run a motor, heat some coils or whatever. Let's say you plug a light bulb into the outlet. The power will flow from the hot prong, through the filament and back to the neutral prong, creating light in the...

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Written by: Carefree Dental | Published On: March 23, 2016

These 7 common dental problems are easy to identify. But are they easy to treat and solve? Find out how to deal with cavities, gum disease, infections, and more.

Image from Julia Farias de Mattos on Flickr.

You might not like it, but your teeth are troublesome. We are not used to thinking of our teeth as living things, but the reality is that they do contain nerves and live tissues. Our mouths are a breeding ground for bacteria, both bad and good. They are thoroughly active, all of the time and in every situation. So, it is any wonder that teeth end up causing problems?

They are under a lot of strain, what with biting, chewing, grinding, talking, and aging every single day of our lives. To stay strong and healthy, they really do need a little tender love and care. This means brushing and flossing regularly (preferably twice a day, at a minimum). It means attending routine exams and...

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Anyone who has traveled to the United Kingdom has probably marveled at the imperial bulk of the standard U.K. wall plug. With three chunky, rectangular pins, the design at first glance seems almost ridiculously inefficient, especially compared to the svelte footprints of the U.S. and European wall plugs, which manage to get juice to your electronics in under half the space.

But first impressions can be deceiving. In fact, as Tom Scott explains in a new video, the U.K. wall plug is a design classic that is substantially safer than any other plug design on Earth.

The main thing to know about the U.K. wall plug is that while it is bulkier than other designs, every ounce of that additional bulk makes the design safer. This is accomplished in four main ways:

• Prong Design: Like standard U.S. grounded plugs, the U.K. wall plug has three prongs. But the design of these prongs makes it nearly impossible for you to shock yourself accidentally. Unlike in U.S. plugs,...

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One is the hot wire (black in the supply wiring) and the other is the return wire (white). This is called a polarized plug. If you had two prongs the same size, the plug could easily be switched where a chassis of an appliance, for example, could be hot and the other a return. This would set up a 120 volt between two appliances and touching them both at the same time could shock you.

For example, let's say you have a refrigerator plugged in one way and a gas stove (that runs on 120 volts for the timer and stuff) is plugged in the other way with no ground pin on the plugs. There would be a 120 volt potential between the chassis of the refrigerator and the stove. And, if you touched both of them at the same time, you would get shocked.

This may not be a problem with every type of electrical device. For example, I have an orbital sander that has a plug with both prongs the same size and no ground pin. That's because the device is double insulated from where you hold it. So,...

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Electrical outlets provide such constant, convenient use that it can be easy to forget that they carry electrical current that is protected only by a thin layer of rigid plastic that covers the inner metal parts of the outlet receptacle. Over time, the plastic faces of an outlet can dry out and crack, and it's likely that you've continued to use an outlet even when the plastic has a crack or two, never really considering the possible danger.

Cracking is particularly likely on old outlets, which were manufactured from hard bakelite, an early form of plastic that is very brittle.

Here's a look at the hazards you can be exposed to if some of those plastic parts are cracked or missing.

Cracked Outlet Faces

Quite commonly, the plastic right around the outlet slots can crack, and pieces can even chip away. Eventually, this piece of plastic can fall out completely and expose the metal contact points inside the outlet. Cracked faces also can expose the user...

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White wire: The National Electric Code (NEC) requires that (with a few specific exceptions) the white wire is the "neutral" one. In other words, it is the grounded circuit conductor wire expected to carry current and that it is grounded at the point of entry to the home (aka at the breaker panel) and nowhere else.

Green wire: The NEC requires that grounds (grounded wires that only carry electricity in a fault situation, when something goes wrong) be either green or bare of insulation, and that ONLY grounds be colored green.

Other colored wires: Any and all other colors are open for use, except that they cannot be used as either a neutral or ground. Typical 240V outlets (as a dryer is) use black and red as the "hot" wires, but any colors except white and green are legally...

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There are threats to your computer, like viruses, that can damage your computer and delete a lot of files from your harddrive. These viruses can be caught from e-mails, bad si

…tes, advertisements and malware (maliscious software). There is also a lot of questional material on the Internet. For example violence and pornography that can cause trauma on sensitive viewers. That is why it is important for parents to know what activities their children are involved with online. Usually it is enough to just ask and guide children on their web browsing, but blocking adult sites can be a good idea if that is an option and the children are young. Other dangers include people that have hidden motives. For example stalkers, pedophiles and other harmful people, that might ask for personal information for unknown reasons. That is why it is important to give away as little personal information as possible. And it is also important that parents inform their children on not giving away...
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Careless troubleshooting of a microwave oven can result in death or worse. Experienced technicians have met their maker as a result of a momentary lapse of judgement while testing an oven with the cover removed. Microwave ovens are without a doubt, the most deadly type of consumer electronic equipment in wide spread use.

The power supplies for even the smallest microwave ovens operate at extremely lethal voltage and current levels. Do not attempt to troubleshoot, repair, or modify such equipment without understanding and following ALL of the relevant safety guidelines for high voltage and/or line connected electrical and electronic systems.

We will not be...

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I usually have the motor on a stand or allowing it to set on the skeg on a floor, wrap my arm around the flywheel, lift up as much as I can and sharply rap the nut. It won't work and can possibly do damage to the lower main bearing UNLESS you are applying upward pressure on the flywheel. Remove the nut and you are there.

Most real mechanics don't recommend this method as it is not what the factory recommends, so I hesitate to post info that some purists may take offense to, but for me it works 95% of the time.

However of that fails, then you will have to use the 3 armed gear puller and the 3 holes in the top of the flywheel like it was designed to do. Inspect the flywheel key for sloppiness or evidence that it does not fit snuggly, as this can allow the flywheel to move slightly & change the ignition timing. Note, there is no lock washer under the nut here. Be sure to replace the key in the crankshaft slot when you replace the...

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