Receptacle not working


I have a receptacle that notoriously trips a breaker. However this time the receptacle stopped working as in nothing plugged in will work but will work everywhere else, and it did not trip the breaker. This receptacle is #4 as there are 3 in the garage that proceed it and there are 3 GFCI's that follow it. All the receptacles that proceed it work when you turn the breaker back on, however all of the GFCI's and the problem receptacle do not work. When tested the four that do not work test "hot/grnd reversed" and all the others test "correct". I took each receptacle and GFCI out and saw they are all wired correctly as in black wire to small blade, white to large blade and they are all grounded properly. No idea as to what else to do at this point. Any ideas as to why this receptacle is constantly tripping a breaker, what happened different this time and what to look for on how to fix...

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Sounds like to need to replace the receptacle. Be sure to save the old receptacle (and remember where it came from) until the new one is working, because if complications arise, you'll need to old receptacle for inspection. Put the wires on the new receptacle as they were on the old one (be sure to be methodical). If the old connections used backstabs (wires poked into holes), I encourage you to use the adjacent screws instead (but don't put more than one wire on one screw).

If you've never done any electrical work before, pick up a book on home wiring at your home center while you're there to buy the receptacle. And then read it before you begin. Pay special attention to instructions on split-wired receptacles and multiwire circuits, as you may have either. Also, find out if perhaps a wall switch used to control part of this receptacle. Actually, if the receptacles look good, the problem may be with the wall switch.

There are a number of reasons why this project...

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How to test a GFI receptacle to make sure that it is working properly. use a tester to test grounding polarity' understand how the tester shows open electrical circuits. make sure the test button on the GFI is working should be able to test and reset. Jones Air Conditioning & Electric

Why are my outdoor outlets not working?

James Adams with ABR electric explains various reasons why your electrical outlet around the outsides of your home may not be working properly. Please visit ...

How to Reset a GFCI Outlet

GFI or GFCI electrical outlets can be found in bathrooms, kitchens, even outside. What do you do if your appliance doesn't power up when you're plugged in to a ...

Do I Have a Bad GFCI?

Get help with your home improvement projects. Tom can help. Send your questions to Tom: See more AskTom videos: ...

GFCI plugs, how to reset and test

My plugs in the...

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From this tin


Jo produced another manuscript, and putting both in her pocket, crept quietly downstairs, leaving her friends to nibble on her pens and taste her ink.

The scout witnessed his departure with complacency, nodding his head after him, and muttering his good wishes; after which he very coolly set about an examination of the state of the larder, among the Hurons, the cavern, among other purposes, being used as a


for the fruits of their hunts.

Requesting Phoebe to roast some coffee,--which she casually observed was the real Mocha, and so long kept that each of the small berries ought to be worth its weight in gold,--the maiden lady heaped fuel into the vast


of the ancient fireplace in such quantity as soon to drive the lingering dusk out of the kitchen.

I had made her a


of lurid things, but there was an odd recognition of my superiority--my accomplishments and my function-- in her...

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When an electrical outlet or a circuit doesn’t work, but the breaker is not tripped, the problem is likely with a neutral connection.

I have had many questions regarding this very situation over the years, and here are some examples of questions received recently.


I have a plug that went out. Did not kick breaker off. And now the hot and common leads are both putting out 120 volts? What went wrong?

Here is another question/query.



Could you explain the “Neutral” in a circuit as opposed to the ground ? I often wonder why the neutral has no voltage although a circuit is energised.

And finally, this is the question that prompted me to do a bit of an educational post explaining the role of the neutral conductor in a circuit.


As a sometime-electrical-do-it-yourselfer, you see those white neutral lines in your breaker box or behind your light switch boxes or outlets. They seem fairly,...

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Are you sure the charger is working correctly? When you plug the charger into the tablet and into the wall, then leave it alone for half an hour, does the charger feel at all warm? Is there power to that outlet, or is it a switched outlet (like one used for a lamp)?

If the charger feels warm after half an hour, does the back of the tablet also feel warm? It may actually be charging.

If the charger is dead cold (same temperature as a table) and you're sure that it's plugged into a good outlet and correctly plugged into the tablet, then it's a good bet that the charger is dead & you need to find another.

Can you also charge that tablet with a USB cable connected to a PC? That'd be a good test. Try doing that - if that ALSO will not charge the tablet, then there may be a problem with the tablet...

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A receptacle tester for North American wiring

A receptacle tester or outlet tester is a device used to verify that an AC wall outlet is wired properly. The tester itself is small device containing a power plug and several indicator lights. Although a multimeter could be used to perform a series of tests which would give the same results, an outlet tester can perform the entire array of tests by simply plugging the device into the outlet once and observing the state of the lights. The tester performs several tests at once but the tests themselves essentially fall into two categories: tests which determine that the outlet has power connected, and tests which determine that the outlet is properly wired for safe operation.

Tests performed[edit]


The most basic job of the outlet tester is to verify that the outlet can provide power to a device plugged into it. In order for an AC outlet to be functional it must have, at a minimum, a live...

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Good day.

When I trying to run yandex-tank test, i recieve next text in console:

Traceback (most recent call last): File "/usr/bin/yandex-tank", line 5, in from pkg_resources import load_entry_point ImportError: No module named pkg_resources

Yandex-tank installed on vagrant VM Ubuntu 12.04 LTS


[phantom] address=http://*host_mane*.com/articles/get_article rps_schedule=line(1,100,1m) ammo_type=phantom


238 POST http://*host_name*.com/articles/get_article HTTP/1.1 Host: *host_name*.com Content-Type: application/json Content-Length: 88 { "url": "" }

Starting tank in console with yandex-tank post.txt

What I doing...

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One of the most common service calls we receive is often resolved by the simple push of a button. If you’re experiencing a problem with some of your electrical outlets not working, your problem may be merely a tripped GFCI receptacle.

The acronym GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. As a safety precaution, GFCIs are designed to instantly open the circuit to prevent electric shock when in contact with water. Thus, they are most commonly used in areas that have potential to get wet, like bathroom outlets, kitchen outlets, garage outlets and outdoor outlets. GFCIs are very sensitive and can occasionally trip or open the circuit at other times. Being exposed to things like unusual amounts of moisture, an electrical storm or a power surge can easily cause a GFCI to trip.

What many people do not know is that their other normal receptacles (non GFCIs) may be protected by a GFCI receptacle somewhere else along the circuit. So if some of your electrical outlets...

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Hello Everybody, it has been a while since I last tried Vector, and Wow this is slick. On to my problem, I have the game Pocket Tanks installed, it installs fine using Wine, and I have played it on Gnome and KDE based systems. But on XFCE based systems it does not seem to want to play nice. Everything seems to be fine only when you start the game it will start and the screen will change, I assume it is changing the resolution for the game, but then the screen goes black and it stop loading and you are back to the desktop. I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on what to look at. It seems strange that the game will work fine on Gnome and KDE but not XFCE, this is not Vector specific but all XFCE based distros I have tried. I have not asked on any other forums because I have not stuck with any of the other distros I have tried, but I have a feeling that Vector is going to be hanging around. So if someone could help and enlighten me as to what the differences are and...

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Here’s how to start:...

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When clients call you because operating problems on pieces of their 120V equipment cause them to suspect their facility's power supply, you have to decide where to start your investigation. Don't proceed directly to the distribution panelboard that feeds the circuit first. Instead, first look at the outlet nearest the problem equipment.

The next step is deciding what measurement to make, but you only have three options to choose from: phase-to-neutral voltage, neutral-to-ground voltage, and phase-to-ground voltage. With these measurements, you're well on your way to answering the following questions:

Is the outlet wired wrong? Is the branch circuit too heavily loaded? Do sensitive electronic loads have the voltage they need?

Believe it or not, you can get that much information from such fundamental yet simple measurements. The three measurements, all taken at one outlet, can provide you with a solid understanding of the facility's electrical supply and help you...

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One of the most common service calls we receive is a problem that can often be resolved by the simple push of a button. If you’re experiencing one of the above problems, drugs you may have what is known as a “tripped” GFCI receptacle.

Since the 1970’s, the National Electrical Code has required that any receptacle (a.k.a. “plug” or “outlet”) with the potential to be near water must be GFCI protected. A GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) is particularly sensitive to the slightest fault (or short) to ground and will open (or break) the circuit before a standard circuit breaker will. It was designed as a safety precaution that instantly opens the circuit to prevent a person from being electrocuted while in contact with water. As a result of the increased sensitivity of these devices, they occasionally open the circuit (or “trip”) at other times. This commonly happens when they are exposed to unusual amounts of moisture, or during electrical storms or severe power...

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In the Kitchen area they have to be 20 amp circuit and it must have 4.0mmІ {#12 AWG } conductor or cable but for the receptale it can be duplex as Joe did explain real clear on it and that is correct for USA side however in Canada no it is not correct it must have T-slotted recpetale on 20 amp circuits { that is Canada Electrical code }

For any exceptions no there is none in USA kitchen circuit you can use 15A duplex recetpales that not a issue with 20 amp circuits however if singleplex no that have to be 20 amp singleplex receptale { it little more harder to find it but many big box store do stock it anyway }

Just make sure watch the spacing on the kitchen receptales.

For garage receptale it MUST be on GFCI { either GFCI breaker or GFCI receptale { at the first recepatle on the circuit }
Oh yeah the extempts are gone if you are on 2008 NEC code cycle unless there is specfic local requirement they will let you know { check the city or county...

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Do you know what the reasoning is behind NOT requiring GFCI protection in the finished area? Just curious

In finished areas, you're likely using TVs, lamps, etc. - things that don't have a tendency to cut through live wires or fall into puddles like drills, saws, etc. that would be used in a garage or unfinished basement.

Also finished spaces usually have floor coverings of materials with electrically insulating materials (carpet, hardwood, etc), thus reducing the potential of a deadly shock. As an example, a kid putting a paperclip in a receptacle gets a shock, but generally isn't deadly (most of us here probably did that as a kid). But do the same thing standing in a puddle of water and it may turn out differently. A cement floor is a surprisingly good...

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Code may require that adjacent receptacles be on different circuits. You can split receptacles to achieve the same effect.

Run three-wire cable from the service panel to the boxes for the two circuits. Codes may call for connecting both circuits to a double-pole breaker. That way an overload on one circuit shuts off both, deadening all wires in each box.


About 3 hours to install several receptacles (not including cutting and patching walls)

Voltage tester, drill, saw, hammer, fish tape, lineman's pliers, screwdriver, strippers, long-nose pliers

Running cable; stripping, splicing, and connecting wire

Run three-wire cable from service panel to boxes, two-wire between last two boxes.

Receptacles, three-wire cable, two-wire cable, boxes, double-pole breaker, wire nuts, tape

Wiring Split Receptacles
When wiring a series of split-circuit...

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HOME SitemapInfo and Troubleshooting

There are often special looking electrical receptacles in bathrooms or kitchens that have "Test" and "Reset" buttons -- often black and red -- on them. Video. These are ground-fault circuit interrupters -- GFCIs or GFIs. Their purpose is to protect people from electrocution. They do not prevent shock altogether, only deadly shock. And they do not prevent overloads on the circuit. That is the job of a circuit breaker at the main panel. See my GFCI article. (What is the little light on some GFIs?)

Why Can't I Reset? Is GFCI Bad or Is There a Ground-Fault?
GFI Outlet Diagram -- Hooking Up
Is an Unknown GFCI the Cause of an Outage?
Finding a Tripped GFCI Receptacle
Confusing Terms: GFCI, GFI, Load, etc.

Bad GFCI or a Ground-Fault? -- Troubleshooting

Is a GFI tripping for a ground-fault? If you are pretty sure you need to troubleshoot a ground-fault itself, you may want to go to

Tripped GFI -- Why?


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HOME Sitemap
What Kind of Tester?


Chart of Testers


Is a Device/Fixture Good?
Is There Hotness at a Device, Fixture, Box, or Wire?
Is There Neutral or Ground at a Device, Fixture, Box, or Wire?
Testing For Shorts and Ground-Faults

Is a Device/Fixture Good?

Is a receptacle working? Best is to plug a good lamp or appliance in and see. A neon tester, receptacle tester, or volt tester may be handier, but they don't pull enough current to be sure the voltage is sustainable.
Is a light working? Screw in a bulb you know recently worked. A fluorescent fixture with more than one tube needs all brand-new tubes to test it reliably; also see this fluorescent troubleshooting site.
Is a switch working? If the switch is unable to turn on a good bulb, turn off the breaker, remove the wires from switch (and keep track of how they were connected), connect those wires to each other, and turn the breaker on. If the item now works,...

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Products you use in your home every day—electric water heaters, dryers, ranges, and other large appliances—use 240 volts. Knowing how to install a volt receptacle is a skill that is sure to come in handy over the life of your appliances. We'll show you how to do it safely and efficiently, and provide pointers along the way. Before you begin, keep the following in mind:

There are various 240-volt receptacles, each made for specific amperages and appliances, so be sure to buy the right one for your application. Each appliance needs a separate double-pole breaker. Some older receptacles use only three wires; codes now call for four wires—black and red hot wires, a white neutral wire, and a ground wire. Use 12-gauge wire for a 20-amp circuit, 10-gauge for 30 amps, 8-gauge for 40 amps, and 6-gauge for 50 amps. Check local codes for requirements.

Warning: Work with extreme caution. 240 volts can cause serious bodily...

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The GSXR’s seem to be plagued with speedo problems. On this particular bike, the owner has tried to replace the speed sensor and the speedo cluster. Swapping these components did not resolve the issue.

Here is a pic of the cluster, where the speedo, tach, and fuel light are not functioning:

2007 Suzuki GSXR 600 Speedo Cluster

Armed with the wiring diagram located in the service manual and a multimeter, I had a feeling the problem had to be located in the harness. After removing the fairings, the problem was very apparent. The unsealed connector located on the left side was corroded!

Harness Connector - Left Side

Harness Connector - Left Side

The red/blue wire was hanging on by a strand! I made an attempt to locate the factory plug/receptacle & pins. It was nearly impossible, and I bet the cost would have changed my mind anyway. The wire was repaired using AMP Faston quick connect spade terminals.

Wire Repair - AMP Faston


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